New 4610

   / New 4610 #1  

jedens

Bronze Member
Joined
Jun 5, 2001
Messages
97
Location
La Veta, CO
Tractor
Kubota 4610
On friday I finally took delivery of my new 4610 after a three week delay in delivery. I now have 8 hours of seat time on the new machine. It is an HST, has a Bradco 510 backhoe (subframe mount) with 16" bucket, an ATI 66" grappler bucket attached with a skid steer quick attach mount, tow hooks welded to the top of each side of the bucket, extra remote to control the grapple arms, R4 tires, grill guard, 2 sets of weights (still undelivered).

Here is a catch that I found. When I ordered the grapple bucket I knew that I needed an extra remote valve for the grapple arm so I told the dealer I wanted to extra remote. I got a remote that is mounted next to the PTO control. What I didn't expect is that the hydraulics are configured so that I'm only connected to either the grapple arm OR the backhoe at any given time. If I have the grapple arm connected and I decide to use the backhoe I have to shut the engine off then manually disconnect the hydraulic hose that is connected to the grapple arm and connect the hydraulic hose that goes to the backhoe. I don't anticipate using both the grapple arm and the backhoe simultaneously so that isn't a problem -- but the problem is that I don't like having to shut the engine off and manually disconnect and then connect the other one. I also don't like the fact that one hydraulic hose is then just dangling. When the delivery man delivered the tractor (160 miles from the dealer) he told me that they "tried to make it so everything would work together, but this was the best they could do". Any ideas on how it should have been done? I want to go back to the dealer and tell them that I want it done right, but since they don't seem to know what right is, I'd like to tell them what I want done. Is there some sort of hydraulic coupler with two outlets and one inlet that could be used?

Other than that one issue, everything seems to work fine. I love the HST. I had one dealer try to tell me that I'd like the GST just as good but with the strong endorsement from everyone on TBN, I held firm on the HST and now that I've put 8 hours on it I understand why everyone loves the HST so much. The grapple bucket is also great. I have a lot of brush and dead trees and the ability to clamp down on a bucket full of brush is really cool. I've spent probably only an hour on the backhoe so far but I was able to dig out a dead stump of an old cottonwood tree that was approximately 24 inches in diameter. Now I just need to get that Chalkley Cup I've heard so much about!

Joe
 

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   / New 4610 #2  
jedens,
You need a selector valve. Go to Northern Tool and look under selector valve in the hydralic valve section.
 
   / New 4610
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Here's another picture to get a better look at the grapple bucket.
 

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   / New 4610
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Jerry,
Thanks for the info. I'll go see what they have.
Joe
 
   / New 4610 #6  
Very nice looking grapple and backhoe! Same for the tractor. See how long you can keep it looking that clean! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
18-64320-TractorsigK.JPG
 
   / New 4610 #7  
The problem is that Bradco's specified hookup takes fluid from the loader power beyond port, but returns it directly to the tank rather than passing it on down the chain to the remotes and 3PH. I gues the thinking is that if you have the BH mounted you can't use the 3PH so why power it, but it also ignores the use of remotes as you've discovered.

I can think of two ways to solve this.

First is to have the BH return go back into the mid hydraulic block rather than the drain to the tank. Fluid would then flow through the loader, through the BH, through the remotes, and to the 3PH. When you remove your BH, you would need to couple the two hoses servicing the BH together to permit oil flow, and the tractor would have to be shut off when making this connection.

The other way is to pick up and return fluid at the rear remote ports rather than the loader. The arrangement woudl be the same, but the BH woudl be inserted into the chain either before or after the remotes. You would still need to shut down to connect/disconnect the BH, and you'd need to couple together the hoses when the BH is not in use.

If you use a diverter valve as suggested, you can eliminate the need to shut down while attaching the BH since the diverter can bypass the fluid until the BH is connected, then reroute the fluid to the BH once it's connected.

Good luck
 
   / New 4610
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Hi Hayden,
You pointed out something that I had forgot about. Currently I am keeping the backhoe on the tractor because I don't have any ballast. I have some weights on order and when they arrive I won't keep the backhoe attached all the time. I think the diverter is a more elegant solution to re-route the fluid flow when the backhoe is disconnected, than to shut off the engine and disconnect the hoses for the backhoe and then reconnect the hoses to provide the bypass circuit to provide continued flow. Any thoughts on whether the hydraulically controlled or the electronically controlled diverter would work best. I read some of the threads on the electronic diverter and it appears that the main advantage is the ability to locate the switch seperately from the diverter. Is there anything else?
thanks
Joe
 
   / New 4610 #9  
I haven't seen a tractor that shiny in a LONG time! Go play in the dirt! /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Pete
 
   / New 4610 #10  
I think I'd go manual with the BH diverter, and I agree it's a more elegant solution. With the electric diverters, it's always powered in one of the two positions, so the solodoid will always be running either when the BH is mounter or removed, depending on what type of diverter you get. Also, I thin the electric diverters are real slik for applications where you need to frequently enable/disable something like your grapple or a BH thumb. Bu the BH is either on or off, and you'd only change the diverter position when you install or remove the BH, so I'd think a manual diverter mounted in the rear somewhere would be fine and woudl save you some $$ over an electric one. I don't recall pricing exactly, but I think I saw a manual diverter in the Northern Tool catalogue for around $100, and I seem to recall the electric diverters costing more like $300 to $500.

Also, replumbing the BH so it's outflow goes back into the hydraulic block to power the 3PH and remotes is a separate issue from the diverter. Replumbing will allow all implements to work at once. The diverter makes installing/removing the BH more elegant.

Good luck.
 
 
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