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corey9212
Platinum Member
nybirdman said:
Yes I am keeping the BX for the smaller jobs. I'm not sure of the weight of the bales but the lightest is just over 600 lbs.
Buying Advice Looking for advise on best tractor for the job
- Thread starter corey9212
- Start date
Yes I am keeping the BX for the smaller jobs. I'm not sure of the weight of the bales but the lightest is just over 600 lbs.
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corey9212
Platinum Member
TripleR said:
I might consider used. My problem is I never have any luck with used machinery (they always seem to come with big problems) so I do get a little skeptical about buying used but I'm deffinately not against it.
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corey9212
Platinum Member
crazyal said:
The land is flat for the most part with lots of mole hills wich makes it very bumpy. The only part of the land that isn't flat is down by the creek. There is a long slope going down to it and in some spots it gets steep enough to make my pucker factor go up quite a bit in the BX
TripleR
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2009
- Messages
- 18,615
- Location
- Missouri
- Tractor
- Kubota M8540HDC, L5740HSTC, BX2200, BX2660, John Deere 425&1025R, Case, Massey Ferguson, Ford
I am fortunate in that my brother is quite an accomplished mechanic and in the past we often bought tractors with issues for a good price and he would fix them up. He put new bull gears and did transmission repairs on our backhoe so we had a usable machine for a decent price; did the same with a Case 995, Ford 841 and Ford NAA.
On my L5030, I was looking at a new purchase when I noticed a tractor had just come in on trade. It was bought new at the dealer and the guy put 100 hours per year on it and had it brought in for service once per year along with his other equipment. While it was at the dealer, he saw an L5740 open station he liked and traded. I bought it before anyone even knew it was for sale and it had all the maintenance records. I saved a lot of money and just could not pass it up; pure luck on my part.
leonz
Super Member
FWIW a Flail shredder chopper will be less work, cut your pasture better, to the ground and easier to use than a bat wing mower and wll be stronger in the frame build as it is one continuos tube frame, some models can be towed with the narrow end if desired for road travel.
The flail shredders cup blades will be much easier to change as well with less work involved.
A bat wing mower allows for a wide cut, but over time the PTO shafts sometimes become bent due to the over flexing of the mower/ steel racking and bending. Disconnecting the outboard PTO shafts prior to transport would eliminate that issue while traveling of course, but I dont know hown many of us would want to dismount and pop of the two outboard P.T.O., shaft yokes for the outer gearboxes each time eevn though it would reduce the potentential for damaging the P.T.O., shafts to zero percent.
Dont forget that the mower is essentially a piece of cardboard that folds in two places and over time the hinge points become weaker from front to back and side to side simply from flexing and the gear boxes will be affected as the steel sheet where they were mounted was made weaker when the hole for gear box shoulder was drilled and
tapped for the gearbox and its shoulder mount which passes through the steel deck to connect the blade mounts.
Fortunately for some mowers that fold the torque created is not directly adding pressure to the steel deck of the mower if a shaft drive is used rather than belts and pulleys which create axial loads as they are hydraulic drive set ups.
Unless the bat wing mower has provisions to lock the outboard decks in place with a manual lock and latch or pin the weight of the wings will allow the outboard wings to drop if not secured as most if not all of them do not employ pilot operated check valves for the twin hoist cylinders hydraulics.
this is something that can be added later by a competant hydraulic repair shop if desired.
The thing about a flail chopper is it justs sits on the roller or wheels and just chops everything with the flail rotor and eirther belt or chain drive for the full width of cut and there is nothing left to recut.
The wide flail chopper has ONE gear box where the bat wing mower has THREE or more.
A bat wing mower is no different than a standard bush hog as it only has so much cutting edge to use versus a flail chopper which shreds material along its entire width of cut at all times and not missing any brush or leaving rooster tails.
The brush that is left will not degrade quickly as it does with a flail chopper shredder like a Matthews flail chopper for one example.
The flail shredders cup blades will be much easier to change as well with less work involved.
A bat wing mower allows for a wide cut, but over time the PTO shafts sometimes become bent due to the over flexing of the mower/ steel racking and bending. Disconnecting the outboard PTO shafts prior to transport would eliminate that issue while traveling of course, but I dont know hown many of us would want to dismount and pop of the two outboard P.T.O., shaft yokes for the outer gearboxes each time eevn though it would reduce the potentential for damaging the P.T.O., shafts to zero percent.
Dont forget that the mower is essentially a piece of cardboard that folds in two places and over time the hinge points become weaker from front to back and side to side simply from flexing and the gear boxes will be affected as the steel sheet where they were mounted was made weaker when the hole for gear box shoulder was drilled and
tapped for the gearbox and its shoulder mount which passes through the steel deck to connect the blade mounts.
Fortunately for some mowers that fold the torque created is not directly adding pressure to the steel deck of the mower if a shaft drive is used rather than belts and pulleys which create axial loads as they are hydraulic drive set ups.
Unless the bat wing mower has provisions to lock the outboard decks in place with a manual lock and latch or pin the weight of the wings will allow the outboard wings to drop if not secured as most if not all of them do not employ pilot operated check valves for the twin hoist cylinders hydraulics.
this is something that can be added later by a competant hydraulic repair shop if desired.
The thing about a flail chopper is it justs sits on the roller or wheels and just chops everything with the flail rotor and eirther belt or chain drive for the full width of cut and there is nothing left to recut.
The wide flail chopper has ONE gear box where the bat wing mower has THREE or more.
A bat wing mower is no different than a standard bush hog as it only has so much cutting edge to use versus a flail chopper which shreds material along its entire width of cut at all times and not missing any brush or leaving rooster tails.
The brush that is left will not degrade quickly as it does with a flail chopper shredder like a Matthews flail chopper for one example.
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crazyal
Super Member
I would only look at low hour machines. If you go to tractorhouse.com they have a large list of used (some new as well but never a price) tractors. I'm not sure how hard it is to cross the border with a used tractor. At least it'll give you an idea about what the price difference would be.
I'm not sure if they are an option or standard but I would get two remotes (hydraulic connectors for attachments). I'm guessing things like a bat wing mower or a shredder as Leonz said have hydraulic cylinders to raise and lower the wings.
montelatici
Platinum Member
ooooooohhh noooooooooooooo the flail mower guy.