rear work light, there are many run of the mill cheap work light kits out there. it can take some times to deal with wiring but if you can do it ok, if ya prefer factory back light then pay the extra. it is just one of them things, i end up working right till sun goes down, and by the time i have picked things up and ready to put tractor away it is to dark to unhook stuff from tractor, etc... and that back light is a "saver"
though for me, having a Front and rear work lights, plus regular head lights, is a greater need. and tends to work very well for me. more so FEL work early morning / late night. head lights just do not shine down wards, and having them higher front work lights shine down were ya need it for FEL work. makes it a night and day difference. and allows ya to keep on working through the night. ((do not forget snow storms and getting off work late or like and by the time ya get home it is already dark and needing to plow drive way just to get into it, let alone get out next morning)) granted looking at options through kubuta build a tractor options to get front work lights ya also need to get a delux sunshade. the shade might be nice. but again there are many off brand cheap work lamps out there. that could be hooked up. granted kubota setup more likely has switch and wiring and hole deal ready to go. vs a off the wall kit that would take some time and custom doing to get setup.
draft control. for me, on a general duty multi purpose tractor and that is all i had. i would most likely go for it. i might rarely use it. but there are times when it can be a nice little feature. for me the draft control would come into play with say a rear blade, box blade, 2 or 3 bottom plow (not sure what this tractor can handle) other words. it would come in handy for me. granted it is not need and you can get by without it. it is one of them small things that makes life easier and less frustration. if i had 2 or more tractors it would be a different story and most likely each tractor would be geared to do something different.
creep gear. the old snail paced baby crawl. there been times were i needed horse power and still had plenty of traction to go but not low enough gear ratio examples skidding a log out, pulling a plow, getting someone else unstuck. granted 4wd drive goes a long ways, but hey i like my options to be able to control all the wheels on the tractor independently.
i honestly have had no need for a swinging drawbar. or clevis though size of tractor a swinging draw bar might come in handy for some tasks, perhaps field work?
for me min is 2 rear remotes. one remote can get ya by, but sometimes there that one implement that if you had that second remote, it would be just awesome. and if you do not go for TNT, perhaps down road spending a few bucks on either just the Top or just the Tilt cylinder for the 3pt hitch. and using one remote for that, while other for the implement or what not. the remotes and valves are the one things that could be more trouble and time consuming later down road. ((taking stuff off and running tubes and like)) then making sure valve body (for lever or joystick) has enough things to deal with everything.
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the extra forward remote, only if ya going to go with a grapel for general duty bucket, or a 4 in 1 bucket, or front mounted snow blower that is hyd driven, or like for the FEL. and if ya didn't go with a backhoe, the grapel may very well be your friend or the 4 in 1. granted you could always add later down the road.
to be honest 4 in 1 buckets, always seemed "cheaply made" or not strong enough for how i would use and abuse them. granted never actually used one. but if ya do not like a grapel option and no backhoe, 4in1 might be your key.
heavy duty bucket for the FEL. if you are not a welder or know someone that can bring a welder over. then get some chain hooks on top of loader bucket. you can go with bolt ons, but i tend to put to much stuff on chains and having some welded on, for me i think are stronger and less likely to destory a bucket.
bolt on cutting edge is a must if you do not go with a tooth bar. at least for me. i can run into way to meany things that would damage a generic edge on a bucket. along with i do general quick back drag grading on rock and dirt driveways / lanes. and running into stumps to or posts to pop them out etc.. cutting edge is a must for sure. other words a cutting edge is cheaper to replaced than it is to repair or to replace a FEL bucket.
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backhoe. it is just one of them things, that myself can no longer live without. i just find to many uses for them. i do not remember how many times all that was available was the FEL. to lift stuff into and out of a pickup truck. and either scratch side or barely putting in small dent into side of truck. due to only way to lift things high enough and get it in truck was to be hair width away from truck and even then had to use ropes to pull stuff around edge of bed of pick truck to get things seated in truck correctly. to just getting my butt unstuck, to dealing with stumps, trenches, move a quick brush pile and pinching it all between bucket and arm of backhoe. the con of backhoe is the cost!! and for some folks on smaller size acre lands it is easier for them to just rent as needed when needed. for me 80acres. being able to get things done at my own time vs dealing with renting. backhoe buying pays off fairly quickly. others not so much. double check 3rd party optoins for backhoes. there might be a cheaper option even after dealing with subframe mount issue for a different model.
if ya go with backhoe, mechanical thumb if ya not a welder. and be done with it. hydraulc thumb is always nice feature. but the extra cash for hyd thumb just not worth it in my eyes. now if i had to pull tons of fence posts move a lot of logs or fire wood around then i would go for the hyd thumb.
go with say a 30" backhoe bucket. and a 12" bucket. if anything go with larger bucket first. due note, you might be able to call around to various places and get used buckets or different 3rd party models cheaper. at least it was for the newholland/ford 555c TLB i have.
the larger bucket is for that dirt moving thing, and the smaller bucket is for them trenches. and getting into tree stumps. a 24" might be enough though for your tractor.
regardless backhoe buckets atleast for me, need "seep holes" in the bottom. part of this is to let rain water out of them, when they are attached to tractor and are set lock postion. anther part, you will always get into some sort of mushy stuff at least i do. and the seep hole/holes allows mud to slide out vs being stuck into the bucket. the FEL bucket is different is is much wider and bigger, granted i have been tempted a couple times to drill a small 1" hole near backside near bottom at each corner. for a couple seep holes.
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if you do not go with a backhoe, then i would look at rear tires filled with a fluid, and/or rear wheel weights. this is primarily due to FEL. and needing counter balance weight. so you do not end up doing "teter totoring" on the front wheels / axel. and even then, perhaps a 3pt implement like a box blade or rear blade or 3pt
ballast box to add more weight on the rear.
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sadly adding in all the little addon's quickly adds to being as much as a bare bone tractor costs with nothing on it. if ya know you will be getting this or that implement in a few years. i would say getter done and be done with it now for what the tractors needs to use given implement. so you can get the cost into the financing package if ya go the route.
why deal with perhaps waiting for a savings account to reach so much or taking out a small loan to get something?
there is always an alternative, many folks have the skills to pull off some amazing Pro like doings and many things could be done cheaper. then again others are all about bran name. and dealing with other things vs dealing with the tractor.
