First Tractor

   / First Tractor #1  

josephny

Silver Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2009
Messages
129
Spring is here, 0% financing, and my dreams of getting my first tractor are back (and strong).

I'd appreciate recommendations as to what would best suit my needs.

I have over 100 acres of mostly forest/light woods. I like making trails to explore the woods.

About 2/3 of the way back, there's a wet area (several feet of peet bog) that I've been manually laying slab wood across to make a path to get to the back third of the property.

I'm looking at the B3200HSD with FEL and backhoe (with thumb). I think teeth on the FEL would be helpful too, but I didn't see that as an option on Kubota's build your tractor site.

I don't understand the question of number of valves (1, 2, or 3), and I see conflicting info about whether R1 or R4 tires would be best. There will be some work in fields.

I built the following -- perhaps someone could look at it and tell me what's right and wrong about it? Is the B3200 appropriate for in-the-woods work? Trail building work (pushing out of the way and smoothing)?

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh173/joseph-nyc/b3200.jpg

Thank you,

Joseph
 
   / First Tractor #2  
Spring is here, 0% financing, and my dreams of getting my first tractor are back (and strong).

I'd appreciate recommendations as to what would best suit my needs.

I have over 100 acres of mostly forest/light woods. I like making trails to explore the woods.

About 2/3 of the way back, there's a wet area (several feet of peet bog) that I've been manually laying slab wood across to make a path to get to the back third of the property.

I'm looking at the B3200HSD with FEL and backhoe (with thumb). I think teeth on the FEL would be helpful too, but I didn't see that as an option on Kubota's build your tractor site.

I don't understand the question of number of valves (1, 2, or 3), and I see conflicting info about whether R1 or R4 tires would be best. There will be some work in fields.

I built the following -- perhaps someone could look at it and tell me what's right and wrong about it? Is the B3200 appropriate for in-the-woods work? Trail building work (pushing out of the way and smoothing)?

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh173/joseph-nyc/b3200.jpg

Thank you,

Joseph

What type and how much? What is the terrain?
 
   / First Tractor #3  
For work in the woods, you generally want a tractor with a lot of ground clearance and narrow track width to work between the trees, shrubs, etc. However, if the terrain is hilly, you want a tractor with wide track width and low to the ground for stability and safety. Also be careful of low hanging branches when working in the woods. You may want to consider a cab for your tractor for safety.

That Kubota you're eyeballing may be OK for your jobs, but you need to get seat time driving your tractor before tackling any steep slopes.

Good luck and be careful out there.
 
   / First Tractor #4  
Have fun with what ever tractor you buy. I have a small forested acreage with a watershed running through the middle. You may need to rethink you woodslabs across the bog. Over time they may rot and give way at the least opportune time. I found out quickly with my little BX24 that four wheel drive or not when you get in mud four wheels can start spinning real easy and then you are in trouble. I have gotten "trapped" down in my wood when I tried to bring up just one more load of firewood after it started sprinkling. My trails were too slippery for any traction. Can you build a dirt path around or through your swamp? Again have fun.

I just had a state forester evaluate my woodlands. It was very educational, gave me a plan and some advice and there was no charge. There are even programs to pay you to manage your woodlands in Iowa. Could be worth a phone call.

Take Care,
Doug in SW IA
 
   / First Tractor
  • Thread Starter
#5  
What type and how much? What is the terrain?

Sorry, but what type and how much of what?

If land: I have 120 acres broken down as follows (very approximate):
10 acres fields
12 acres overgrown with rhodendendrum on several feet of super wet peat (not underwater, but feet will sink and the whole created will fill with water)
98 acres light woods (pine, hemlock, birch, beech, some cherry & oak).

Several hills, but mostly flat.

Thanks!
 
   / First Tractor
  • Thread Starter
#6  
For work in the woods, you generally want a tractor with a lot of ground clearance and narrow track width to work between the trees, shrubs, etc. However, if the terrain is hilly, you want a tractor with wide track width and low to the ground for stability and safety. Also be careful of low hanging branches when working in the woods. You may want to consider a cab for your tractor for safety.

That Kubota you're eyeballing may be OK for your jobs, but you need to get seat time driving your tractor before tackling any steep slopes.

Good luck and be careful out there.

Thanks very much for the safety details -- I am completely new to tractors.

My neighbor has one and we've gone on my property with it. He's got that sense (that I suppose you all do) of how much of a hill or incline the machine will take before flipping. I surely don't (which leads to much worry).

Is there a better model for woods work (high ground clearance and narrow track width)?

Thanks!
 
   / First Tractor
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Have fun with what ever tractor you buy. I have a small forested acreage with a watershed running through the middle. You may need to rethink you woodslabs across the bog. Over time they may rot and give way at the least opportune time. I found out quickly with my little BX24 that four wheel drive or not when you get in mud four wheels can start spinning real easy and then you are in trouble. I have gotten "trapped" down in my wood when I tried to bring up just one more load of firewood after it started sprinkling. My trails were too slippery for any traction. Can you build a dirt path around or through your swamp? Again have fun.

I just had a state forester evaluate my woodlands. It was very educational, gave me a plan and some advice and there was no charge. There are even programs to pay you to manage your woodlands in Iowa. Could be worth a phone call.

Take Care,
Doug in SW IA

That is so interesting!

I spent a couple of year researching the best way to get a path through the wet area (without spending a million dollars, of course). It seems, from what I read, that as long as the boards are submerged, there'll be no rot (no air to facilitate the decay). Some are submerged, and some are not.

If I had a tractor, I could have a couple truckloads of gravel dropped off and slowly bring them back to lay on top of the boards. And, I could easily lay new boards on top. That, and making new trails, and the trailer/hay rides for the kids, etc., are all part of my tractor dreams.

But, I keep in the back of my mind the idea that I'd be better off with a track-based machine (bobcat? mini-excavator?), but only for the traction. Everything else makes a tractor better, from what I can figure out.

Does it make sense to have a winsch mounted on the tractor to pull out of a no-traction area? I understand the backhoe arm is a big help for that also.

Thanks!
 
   / First Tractor #8  
I do a lot of work in the woods with mine (b2920). For woods you want something maneuverable and probably no cab or canopy because they quickly get destroyed by low hanging branches. I would also recommend the foldable ROPS. It sounds like you're on the right track with what you're looking at. If I wasn't worried about finished lawn I'd go with the AG tires (get them filled). If I did have lawn I'd go with filled turfs, I've found them to have surprising traction for woods work. Either way get the tires filled for stability on the hills. You can get the toothbar after market pretty cheaply. Other things I'd consider, but some are very expensive: Wood Chipper (my most used implement), Backhoe (if you need to dig drainage etc), a grapple (super useful for rocks, logs, brush). You can buy most implements used and save a lot of money.
 
   / First Tractor
  • Thread Starter
#9  
I do a lot of work in the woods with mine (b2920). For woods you want something maneuverable and probably no cab or canopy because they quickly get destroyed by low hanging branches. I would also recommend the foldable ROPS. It sounds like you're on the right track with what you're looking at. If I wasn't worried about finished lawn I'd go with the AG tires (get them filled). If I did have lawn I'd go with filled turfs, I've found them to have surprising traction for woods work. Either way get the tires filled for stability on the hills. You can get the toothbar after market pretty cheaply. Other things I'd consider, but some are very expensive: Wood Chipper (my most used implement), Backhoe (if you need to dig drainage etc), a grapple (super useful for rocks, logs, brush). You can buy most implements used and save a lot of money.

Is the B3200 manuverable enough for woods with trees pretty close to each other?

I have some lawn, but I won't be on it much and I'm much more interested in traction. That means getting the AG tires, right? Filled with what?

Wood chipper is interesting. I assume one just feeds it limb and out comes chips. That would be good to fill trail depressions, or to put on the cordoroy road.

Is a grapple the same thing as the backhoe thumb? Definitely need to grab things and move them.

Thanks!
 
   / First Tractor #10  
Sorry, but what type and how much of what?

If land: I have 120 acres broken down as follows (very approximate):
10 acres fields
12 acres overgrown with rhodendendrum on several feet of super wet peat (not underwater, but feet will sink and the whole created will fill with water)
98 acres light woods (pine, hemlock, birch, beech, some cherry & oak).

Several hills, but mostly flat.

Thanks!

Type of field work ie ground engagement like plowing, discing, but it doesn't appear you have a lot to do, so transmission geared vs HST isn't much of a consideration.

I have driven a lot of tractors from row cropping to working in the woods and there is no ideal tractor, but a lot will do a fine job.

I have looked at the B Series and while I like them, always found them either too big or too small. My initial impression is that I would want a more powerful, heavier tractor such as in the L/GL Series.

I won't own another tractor without position control 3PH and dragging or hauling logs, at least for me I like a larger, heavier piece of equipment. I would go with Ag tires or some use Industrial tires with chains when needed.

I am sure some other members with more experience can help you out. I am not saying the B3200 won't work for you, it just wouldn't be my choice.
 
 
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