Buying Advice adding rear remotes - need advice

[FamilyFarm]

I plan to add 3 rear remotes. In order to make the most of a top-n-tilt setup, I plan to have one float and one regular. My question pertains to the 3rd valve and which type to get.
The dealer says the float type makes it a little more difficult to move implements in small increments because the control lever has less distance to move, therefore moving it a certain amounts yields greater hydraulic fluid volume/pressure than the standard control with longer travel. I hope this makes sense.
So the bottom line question is this: Other than top-n-tilt, what implements would really need a float valve? If there aren't any that I will be using, I will just make the 3rd remote the standard type.
Thanks for your help!
Terry

[MtnViewRanch]

I plan to add 3 rear remotes. In order to make the most of a top-n-tilt setup, I plan to have one float and one regular. My question pertains to the 3rd valve and which type to get.
The dealer says the float type makes it a little more difficult to move implements in small increments because the control lever has less distance to move, therefore moving it a certain amounts yields greater hydraulic fluid volume/pressure than the standard control with longer travel. I hope this makes sense.
So the bottom line question is this: Other than top-n-tilt, what implements would really need a float valve? If there aren't any that I will be using, I will just make the 3rd remote the standard type.
Thanks for your help!
Terry

Ok, I just went out and checked this, and on the valves that I just checked, yes the valve with the float function has a shorter stroke. Measuring at the tips of the 6" long levers, the stroke is a whooping 1/8" less. Can you believe that? I bet that you can really tell the difference.

My suggestion is to get at least 2 of them with the float function if you can. That way both of the "TnT" cylinders would have that option.

If you are going to have ANY hydraulic that you are not continuously using like a FEL, but will need to make small adjustments, then get some sort of a flow restrictor. That will allow you to be able to make fine-small adjustments much easier.

[FamilyFarm]

Thanks for checking that measurement! I very much appreciate your help and advice.
Terry

[MtnViewRanch]

No problem, keep in mind that I checked an aftermarket set of valves, not Kubota OEM valves. I doubt that they are much different though.

[deadmoose]

Ok, I just went out and checked this, and on the valves that I just checked, yes the valve with the float function has a shorter stroke. Measuring at the tips of the 6" long levers, the stroke is a whooping 1/8" less. Can you believe that? I bet that you can really tell the difference.

My suggestion is to get at least 2 of them with the float function if you can. That way both of the "TnT" cylinders would have that option.

If you are going to have ANY hydraulic that you are not continuously using like a FEL, but will need to make small adjustments, then get some sort of a flow restrictor. That will allow you to be able to make fine-small adjustments much easier.

What do you mean by flow restrictor? I have been very gently feathering my manual tie baler and something like this would help immensely... Although I am not sure how long I will keep this baler. At least another year or two. How much $$$$ and what other applications would this help me with? TIA

[MtnViewRanch]

It is a fitting with a small hole in it and it restricts the flow. $10 + shipping fits 1/2" pipe thread. Works on anything that is not used continuously that needs the fluid flow slowed down.

[deadmoose]

Thanks.

[94BULLITT]

I have not problems moving the sidelink on my tractor with the float valve. The Kubota TNT has restrictors in them, I guess cause the holes were way smaller than the hoses.

[JimP]

I have the Kubota float and non float valves. No difference I can feel when feathering the valves. Jim

[FamilyFarm]

I appreciate the feedback. I am going with Kubota T-N-T and 3 remotes - 2 float and 1 regular.