Size and HP ???

[Gary Fowler]

A few weeks ago there was a post concerning adding a hard cab aftermarket to about a 40 HP tractor. Normally a hard cab from the factory is going to cost you about $5 grand, this is with heat and AC and most times a stereo. The comparable hard cab (cant recall the name brand) with heat / ac and stereo was about $9000 not counting installation. My point is if you want a cab get it from the OEM and don't plan to add it on later. You may HAVE to step up to a larger tractor to get a decent cab option, you will just need to set in one, price it out and see how it fits. I just cant imagine how much room would be on a BX machine with a cab since the tractor is so small.

 

[TripleR]

I'm not sure how many hours I've spent reading various posts, but I also noticed that the VAST MAJORITY of people who regretted getting, or purchased another tractor, listed bought too small as the main reason. Could this be because they were like myself an inexperienced user?

-- Bill --

No doubt inexperience often plays a part in picking the wrong size tractor, but sometimes even experienced users will do this. Some are just trying to save a few bucks and others judge miscalculate their needs or the amount of time they have to spend on a job.

I think I have mentioned that renting a tractor often helps an inexperienced person much more than driving one around on a dealer's lot for a few minutes. I have bought a couple of tractors about which I was not too thrilled based on my driving around the lot only to come to really like them once I used them a few hours.

When buying we have to figure what is going to be a one time task as opposed to ongoing tasks as you may need a different size tractor to tame a property and an entirely different one to maintain it. Sometimes you can find a compromise to do both fairly well, but neither ideally; the lucky few will, but many of us, if we have only one tractor wind up straddling that fence.

We have tractors from 22 to 85 HP and still wind up renting a backhoe, skid steer or excavator from time to time; renting is cheaper than owning one. for our uses.

Please note I am far from an expert on all of this and still learning.

 

[bandit67]

Gary is right. I looked into adding a cab to my B3030, a decent cab by Laurin, and it would have run $10k to buy it and install it myself. Read too many complaints on the cheaper Curtis cabs, but came close to pulling the trigger on one of those so I could have something for winter use. I also considered building my own cab, but not having much in the way of welding skills, it would have cost me quite a bit of time & money to fabricate my own half-way decent cab. Certainly an option if you are a welding guru.

In the end, it was cheaper to just do a trade for a factory cab in my instance. And boy do I like that factory cab when the weather is lousy. So much nicer going out to clear snow in 4* temps with a cab.

 

[wolftree]

I have just one quick comment about front loaders. With todays quick disconnect/ detach you can remove just the bucket in less than two minutes for a little clearance room. Or remove the loader entirely in less than 5 minutes for even more clearance. Once you have a front loader on a tractor, you will not know how you got along in life without one. A loader will become a third hand to you.

 

[wolftree]

2Bad4u,

Bill, Somewhere in your posts you mention you already have a lawnmower. May I suggest keeping it to do the first 5 laps around your house and other tight spots. This eliminates cab to house/ tight area concerns as you will want the cab with 10'+ feet of snowblowing. Trying to compromise in too many areas in your tractor selection could mean it fails in many as well. You already own the mower. Keep it a few seasons and see if you need it or not.

I know all of our suggestions mean little until you find that perfect piece of ground.

 

[2Bad4u]

2Bad4u,

Bill, Somewhere in your posts you mention you already have a lawnmower. May I suggest keeping it to do the first 5 laps around your house and other tight spots. This eliminates cab to house/ tight area concerns as you will want the cab with 10'+ feet of snowblowing. Trying to compromise in too many areas in your tractor selection could mean it fails in many as well. You already own the mower. Keep it a few seasons and see if you need it or not.

I know all of our suggestions mean little until you find that perfect piece of ground.

Hey Wolf. Actually I only own one of the old manual push mowers because our lot size is so small - good advise just the same. What I do own is as a walk behind snow blower. I'll probably take this with us because it may be useful, if not I'll sell it.

-- Bill --

 

[bandit67]

I have a 60" 3pt snowblower. Bought a 28" walk behind this year cause I was tired of not having a snowblower to handle the tighter areas when we have the big snows.

DON'T get rid of your walk behind snowblower before you try it on the new property for a season or 2.

 

[sd455dan]

I have a 60" 3pt snowblower. Bought a 28" walk behind this year cause I was tired of not having a snowblower to handle the tighter areas when we have the big snows.

DON'T get rid of your walk behind snowblower before you try it on the new property for a season or 2.

Yep- if you end up with any small out buildings or need small (paths) it will become very handy to have around. We purchased a used track drive, for trails and the tight spots great for dog walk paths to....