Two minor questions about a Grand L6060

[rprecision]

I am going to be buying a new tractor here in the next few month's and have been giving some thought to the options.

1. I may have a use for remotes in the future. Is it more cost effective to do a dual set right off the bat? Is there any practical reason to get the floating / detent varriety? My possible uses are for a small square baler, bat wing, rear blade, etc

2. I will be using the tractor for snow removal in the winter. With a heated cab do I still need the defrost options for the side and rear windows? It will be stored inside my heated shop. It seems overkill, but I want it right from the start

Thanks for your feedback, Charles

 

[rprecision]

I'm mechanically competent, are the remotes difficult to add later and just buy the kits? Sounds like the hardest part is pulling the dash to instal the levers?

 

[fried1765]

I'm mechanically competent, are the remotes difficult to add later and just buy the kits? Sounds like the hardest part is pulling the dash to instal the levers?

I think lots of folks here on TBN will suggest buying all the possible remotes you think you will ever need, already installed on the tractor.
You will likely pay more for the kits to install later, than you would be able to get them for already installed.
Why make more work for yourself ?

 

[Grateful11]

This is an extreme but when my FIL ordered his CaseIH 5140 Maxxum back in about 1992 he had them delete a set of remotes to save about $300. So it came with 1 set of remotes. Fast forward to about 2013, our son now runs the operation and bought his first discmower conditioner. Well a disc mower conditioner needs two sets of remotes, my late FIL never had anything that needed more than one set of remotes. I've tried to find him a set of OEM valves as they are stackable but you must also add all the complex linkage as it's a cab tractor. The least I've found a used/salvaged set for was $1500. not including any labor. So now he switches out lines to move the drawbar out and then reconnects the line for the cutter head to go up and down. Big pain in the butt. So now I've found him a couple options for hydraulic multipliers, the cheapest being about $290. for a set with a manual lever to switch flow to about $500 for a set of V&M electrically actuated valves. BTW: If it's a light hay crop he pulls the NH H7220 Discbine with the JD which has 2 sets of remotes.

So the moral of the story is if your going to spend what I know an L6060 cost and you think you might need 2 sets down the road, get them now it'll cost less and be covered by the warranty. I would get one set standard and one set with float option, you don't have to use the float but you may need it on something.

Can't answer the defrost question sorry.

 

[SDT]

I'm mechanically competent, are the remotes difficult to add later and just buy the kits? Sounds like the hardest part is pulling the dash to instal the levers?

Buy both remotes now in order to avoid hauling back and forth to the dealer in the future.

Installing remotes on a Grand L , especially one with a cab, is a PITA.

Get a second float valve if planning to operate a bat wing.

SDT

 

[Fallon]

I have s L4060HSTC, so same frame & cab...

If you are going with a SSQA plow, get a 3rd function on the loader. Probably dont need it if you are going with a frame mounted plow.

I got a 3rd function, 2 rear floats & a normal valve on mine. I want float on my TnT.

I put the same rear remotes (from Fit Rite) on my L3200 myself. But with a cabbed machine Brian from Fit Rite recommended going OEM (despite current Kubita rear remotes not being as good as they use to be).

And speaking of valves sucking... My machine has been in 2 times now & has multiple valves replaced. My tilt cylinder would extend all the way in under 45 minutes. Currently we are down to an inch an hour sitting (lots faster when roading it). My dealer wasn't happy with the latest valve, but Kubota was out of stock & he couldn't get another. He sent the latest crap valve off to a friend at a hydraulic shop to see if he could figure out WTF is going on with the current generation of hydraulic rear valves.

The rear defroster is a new window. They remove the old one & put in a new one with the heater lines in it. I'm happy with mine & it works well here in Colorado. I dont have any other defrosters. Any defrosters require the upgraded alternator option.

At times I regret getting loaded tires. But with 20hp more than me on the same frame you'll need the extra weight to put that power to the ground. Probably need it for the bigger loader too. The medium loader is ok, but get the big one as yours supports it (think the L4060 has a smaller front axle & can only get the medium or small loader).

The L4060 is ok & a good power/traction match. But I long for more power when mowing, so the L6060 is a good call for a big mower.