jinman
Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2001
- Messages
- 21,008
- Location
- Texas - Wise County - Sunset
- Tractor
- NHTC45D, NH LB75B, Ford Jubilee
Last fall, I bought a G1800 with about 1700 hours on it. The fellow who sold it to me had several of these mowers he had bought in an auction. This particular one had a hotwire jumper for starting with two bare wires that you held together to energize the starter solenoid. The seat had also been replaced with the wrong Kubota seat and it wasn't a very good job. Otherwise, the mower seems to be solid. The engine starts quickly and runs very well with no abnormal smoke or odd sounds. The HST transmisssion and cruise control lever work perfectly as do the hydraulic deck lift and PTO. Surprisingly, all the u-joints and shaft drive components for the HST transmission and mower deck seem tight and solid. The radiator is also in very good shape and no leaks. The fellow wanted $2100 for the mower and I offered him $1500. He wouldn't take $1500, so I offered him $1800 and he took it.
This week I started working to get the starter working from the ignition switch. I've purchased operator and maintenance manuals, so I installed a jumper around the safety switch logic as a temporary measure and wired the ignition so the start position will always start the tractor. To my dismay, the contacts in the switch are dirty and I only get 9.8 volts to the solenoid when I turn the key to "start" position. I worked the switch back and forth about 50 times and improved the voltage to 10.5. That's just enough to sometimes work and sometimes not work. I disconnected the connector and jumpered around the switch and the starter kicks right off. I suspect this is just a problematic switch. I don't want to spend $50 for a new one and end up with the same problem in a couple of years.
Today, I'll look at a Radio Shack for a pushbutton switch I can install for a starter button. I'll just wire it with spade connectors and install it in the screen vent below the steering wheel. I'll take some pictures and post them when I make the changes. Even if I get all the safety logic working, this switch can still be used to bypass the ignition switch.
Has anyone else had a problem with their G1800 or similar mower having a bad starter switch? The switch is sealed and there is no way to get inside and clean the contacts. Perhaps I'm being too cheap and should really replace the switch. My guess is that the starting current causes an arc in the switch and it's just a matter of time before the switch fails. A cheap pushbutton switch can be replaced for much less and that's why I'm going to that solution. I'll take some pictures and show my kludge.
This week I started working to get the starter working from the ignition switch. I've purchased operator and maintenance manuals, so I installed a jumper around the safety switch logic as a temporary measure and wired the ignition so the start position will always start the tractor. To my dismay, the contacts in the switch are dirty and I only get 9.8 volts to the solenoid when I turn the key to "start" position. I worked the switch back and forth about 50 times and improved the voltage to 10.5. That's just enough to sometimes work and sometimes not work. I disconnected the connector and jumpered around the switch and the starter kicks right off. I suspect this is just a problematic switch. I don't want to spend $50 for a new one and end up with the same problem in a couple of years.
Today, I'll look at a Radio Shack for a pushbutton switch I can install for a starter button. I'll just wire it with spade connectors and install it in the screen vent below the steering wheel. I'll take some pictures and post them when I make the changes. Even if I get all the safety logic working, this switch can still be used to bypass the ignition switch.
Has anyone else had a problem with their G1800 or similar mower having a bad starter switch? The switch is sealed and there is no way to get inside and clean the contacts. Perhaps I'm being too cheap and should really replace the switch. My guess is that the starting current causes an arc in the switch and it's just a matter of time before the switch fails. A cheap pushbutton switch can be replaced for much less and that's why I'm going to that solution. I'll take some pictures and show my kludge.