Gearbox oil change for deck and one other question

[Sigarms]

Finishing up maintence for spring mowing and question on the gearbox oil.

F3080 with RCK60R deck

Per instructions in manual, states "Used hours (Change or check every interval)". Manual lists the gear box oil as being changed at 50 hours, then the next change at 150 hours.

Knwoing John (his old mower) gearbox oil was changed at 50 hours, and I changed it out at 156 hours (per manual). Other than the oil looking like it needs to be changed, I'm assuming the next time I should change the gearbox oil is at 300 hours, correct?

Only reason why I ask is I'm at 280 hours, oil looks good, and I'm thinking I'll probably wait until the 300 hr mark (if my assumption is correct) to change it.

Second question - What is the PITA factor in replacing the gear box oil seal change? Looks like I'm going past due and wondering the the actual importance of this maintenance if no problems are occurring pertaining to this maintenance. Also, don't see where they recommend that the dealer does it, but nor do I see anything per the manual on how to accomplish this task. That said, if I have the deck apart for the grearbox oil change, might as well do the change out for the seal and assume I'll figure it out.

 

[Oldtractorfixer]

If the next change is 150hrs, I would think they are looking for 100hrs between changes so should have been changed at 250.
I wouldn't change the seal unless it is showing signs of a leak. I might go ahead and order one to have on hand in case it blows during the season.

 

[David_Kb7uns]

Depending on mowing I change the oil every year or sometime every other if mowing is light. Never let it get to the 300hr mark.

The reason for being proactive on the seals is that the gearbox holds so little oil and a tiny leak drains it fast while running and it is usually destroyed before leak is found out. The local dealer has many stories of people having to replace gearboxes at over $1000 so keep an eye on it at all times.

David

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

What does the oil in the gear box do? It is an oil bath for the gears that's not under pressure. Not sure if it gets hot with use but if so that would, in my simple mind, be the logic for doing any change. I'd do the change whenever it is convenient around the 300 hours or when I had lots of free time with nothing else to do. Takes nearly no oil so not a big expense. I've never heard of anyone replacing a seal on the mower gearbox so I guess that tells you how I feel about worrying about that.
Don't have manual in front of me but looks like you are saying your manual indicates every 150 hours after initial 50 hour change so looking forward to the 450 hours mark in a few years unless manual says otherwise :thumbsup:
PS Just bought the 25 acre mountain behind my current 5 acres with old logging roads and gravel road up to top where a tower was that has been removed. Thought I'd found my final Kubota tractor but now with the change in land size and make up it's back to Barlows this morning.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

When I change the deck gear oil I use a piece of bent thin cardboard/stiff paper to funnel what I can away from belts, after removing the two pulley covers, with lots of rags/paper towels/shop towels to sort of catch the oil and also then wipe up the part I didn't catch. Bit messy but not rocket science and putting top fill bolt back on can/will stop/reduce the speed of the flow while swapping out towels/rags.

 

[Sigarms]

When I change the deck gear oil I use a piece of bent thin cardboard/stiff paper to funnel what I can away from belts, after removing the two pulley covers, with lots of rags/paper towels/shop towels to sort of catch the oil and also then wipe up the part I didn't catch. Bit messy but not rocket science and putting top fill bolt back on can/will stop/reduce the speed of the flow while swapping out towels/rags.

Yeah, I just used aluminim foil and made a makeshift "reservoir". Not clean, but works.

Just so you know, the boys still ask about you from time to time

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Yeah, I just used aluminim foil and made a makeshift "reservoir". Not clean, but works.

Just so you know, the boys still ask about you from time to time

View attachment 499435

Enjoyed your and their visit. Now with the additional 25 acres and trails and RTV I can take them thru the woods if you return this direction.
I mentioned your plan with Steve Barlow yesterday and he said the seal change was probably not needed and a fairly technical/extensive operation and to just keep the gear box filled with oil to prevent deterioration of the seal. He said gear box may get hot if to low on oil and damage seal but otherwise not a regular/routine operation.
Trading in a under 50 hours B2650 HST FEL with front hydraulics next week and a under 50 hours ZD326 60" rear discharge deck if you see anyone wanting a documented used Kubota that hasn't been submerged. mistreated and maintained. Tell them to call Barlows and tell them the ones I'm trading in for price.

 

[Toyboy]

I release the belt tension on my deck for winter storage. So changing gear oil in spring is the first thing I do before putting the belt back on. I use synthetic gear oil also.

I wonder if anyone has ever tried that John Deere corn head grease I hear about from time to time?

 

[KYKub]

Considering the ease of changing the gear oil, I do it every spring even though I probably only put 35 hours or so a year on the mower. I think the cheap hand operated transfer pump works well for removing the old oil. Take off the top plate or seal, pump the oil out and refresh. 5 minutes, tops.

Some people stand their decks vertically, others do like John and make a funnel/trough and drain the oil while the deck is horizontal.

As far as changing oil seals, I've changed several and can't imagine what is "technical" about it. Use a small screwdriver to pop the old one out and press the new one in. Not claiming to be an expert, and maybe there are other seals that are more difficult, but my experience has been that removing the mower deck is the hardest part of the job!

For what it's worth, Kubota oil seals seem to be all over the place with regard to cost. I've ordered some from Messicks that were $5-7. The last two I went to order were $20+ each! After a little Googling I found the size of the seals and ordered them from my local Autozone. $5 and a perfect fit. Just FYI.

 

[KYKub]

After a bit more thought, the "technical" comment probably refers to the bottom seal. In order to change that seal you must remove the gear box and that can be a pain. However, it's that seal which is more likely to be the culprit in a catastrophe. It's easier to have an undetected oil leak because of the center pulley and grass clippings and debris obstructing your view.

I wouldn't change the seals unless there was a reason UNLESS you know you won't check them periodically. If it starts looking oily and goopy around the bottom of the gear box check those seals!