Bummer B7100 FEL -- looking for advice

[chrisinnh]

My 2 cents worth.

LHoyer, you're not much of a salesman, are you

Your post was worth way more than 2 cents to me!

This Kubota pump has only a 3.1 gpm delivery if memory serves me correctly.

3.1gpm means i can cycle my 2" dump cylinders in about 8.5 seconds. Even slower, but I won't have to mess with the clutch and gearshift. ...and if I replace those cylinders with 1.5" units i'd cut the time to under 5 seconds.

I think I could live with that performance.

The manuals you are obtaining are probably NOT going to show this hydraulic set-uo. I had to do a fair amount of looking to find the info I needed to hook up a snowblower.

No, they sure don't. Thanks so much for posting them, I really appreciate it.

/chris

 

[charlz]

Hi Charles. I agree that mine looks like a b219 knockoff. I sure wish I had the front end drive stuff. The parts book shows a couple of different crank pulleys: One with 3 holes in the perimeter, and a PTO adapter that screws into those holes. ...and mine. No holes. No PTO. Just tiny splines on the front end of the crank.

Yeah, I think you need the 'chain coupling assembly' which one end goes on the end of the crank and extends it out... then the pump shaft would fit in/on the other end. Figure 3 of page 6 in that online manual, items 70-73 on the parts list.

Yeah, I've seen the thread with your grapevine trench. I'm excited to know that it may be a b670, because nobody has ever heard of KUW200.

Charles, what filter do you have on your B670? Mine has a fram PH8A (ford V8 engine oil). That can't possibly be right. The parts guy at Chappell couldn't figure out what KUW200 or B670 were, so I spend a while opening boxes and comparing filters to a fresh PH8A. None matched.

The part number called out is 70020-00755 (now 15402-32430 i believe) which somehow I crossed to a Fram PH8A or crossed to a Wix and then to a Fram. The Fram PH8A should be right.

Someone had written KUW200 underneath B670 on the cover of my manual which is one of the reasons I was thinking they were the same/later models. Actually now that I am looking at it... down at the bottom of my b670 manual is says "Form KUW200 979" and it is dated November of 1996.

10-40 in the backhoe?

My backhoe has hydraulic fluid (mobil something or other) in it... Ugh. This was not something I expected to get wrong. ...if it's running motor oil, then the PH8A filter might make sense!

I _think_ UDT is like 10-20w or something so I was going to switch to that when I get around to changing the oil and filter on the hoe.

Upper quadrant arms: Are these the powered lifting arms? Mine run into the seat adapter (which only just now occurs to me that it is a backhoe part).

Yep, yours looked like they might go along the sides of the adapter at least a little ways.. mine run right into it. This limits how much lift you have. The guy that had the tractor before me gave me new lift rods but they are pretty long for how much travel I have. I have been trying to figure out if I needed shorter lift rods or to mod the backhoe adapter. While I turn the seat around I rarely raise the seat up... in fact when I got the tractor is was totally rusted down and it took a lot of wd40 and banging to get it to some up

I need a new seat so I have been pondering taking the adapter off but somehow making a swivel plate so I can still turn the seat around for the hoe.

Lower attachment: Are you looking for the lower area where backhoe attaches to loader crossmember, or where loader attaches to rear axle?

Well mine has two brackets that bolt to the rear end and then a roundbar on the hoe sits in a notch in the those brackets. Arms then extend forward to the loader cross member. I am interested to see if you have the same brackets on the back.

This is a real pain as you have to take all the 3-point gear off every time you switch over. The bolts that brackets use have been stripped out over the years and I have one on each side that just spin.. time for heli coil When you put those brackets on you use longer bolts and I think what may have happened is someone used the long bolts without the brackets or spacer washers and messed up the bolts/holes... so now I get to fix it.

...And about that seat adapter: It looks like there should be a 1/4" rod to pin the seat in the 'up' position. Is it just a long rod with an "L" bend, or something more?

/chris

Just a long rod with an L on one end and cotter pin on the other.


Thanks!
Charles

 

[charlz]

Saw the pics, thanks!

Your hoe looks exactly like my b670 with the mounting and everything so I would say that is what it is.

I did notice that your mounting brackets have a hole drilled through them for the rod the lower 3-pt arms mount on. This is one of the things I have been trying to figure out... if it is really necessary to remove those brackets every time. When I drop the hoe off I am going to take a hard look at this.


BTW did you get all the 3-pt parts along with your tractor?

Charles

 

[chrisinnh]

Saw the pics, thanks!

Sure!

I did notice that your mounting brackets have a hole drilled through them for the rod the lower 3-pt arms mount on. This is one of the things I have been trying to figure out... if it is really necessary to remove those brackets every time. When I drop the hoe off I am going to take a hard look at this.

I guess you're talking about the hole right in the center of this picture?

Here's a shot near the end of the previously linked manual:

​

I don't see the hole there.

BTW did you get all the 3-pt parts along with your tractor?

I think so, but I've never removed the backhoe, so I'm not sure that nothing's missing.

If I understand you correctly... You remove the notched adapter plates in order to install the 3-pt lower links? That's a bummer. Are you thinking of installing the lower links outboard of the adapter plates?

/chris

 

[charlz]

I guess you're talking about the hole right in the center of this picture?

Yep!

I think so, but I've never removed the backhoe, so I'm not sure that nothing's missing.

If I understand you correctly... You remove the notched adapter plates in order to install the 3-pt lower links? That's a bummer.

The real bummer is the way my tires are I have to pull one rear off in order to put the rod in/take it out for removing the 3pt.

Are you thinking of installing the lower links outboard of the adapter plates?

Yes. Although I was looking at it this morning and with the space the plates take up plus the gap between the plates and the rear end part I would need a new rod for the 3pt.... and it might be too wide.

If you could leave the bh brackets and the 3pt rod in place it would really cut down on the effort to attach/drop the hoe. The bh brackets are pretty low but not any/much lower than the cross member for the loader. My place is all flat anyway

Charles

 

[charlz]

BTW here is a quick pic of what you should have for 3pt parts and kinda how it would go on the tractor looking from the rear.





The chain and clevis are what I have to use in place of the lift rods (sitting next to them) due to the limits caused by the backhoe seat adapter. These work OK for heavy implements like a tiller but not so hot for a rear blade as they allow it to lift and twist.

Charles

 

[chrisinnh]

Thanks for the picture!

I've got the lower arms (with turnbuckly sway control things), the lift rods and the top link.

...but I'm missing the round rod, the middle thing and all the small bits. It looks like the middle thing bolts on here:

What is that thing? Is it a hitch for small trailers and the like?

Few more questions:

Is the rod cross-drilled for pins outside the lower arms?

What are those rings between the lower arm spheres and the stabilizer things? Just a washer? It goes between the axle casting and the sway link end?

Where do the large washers go?

I'm thinking I need to buy a rod long enough to put my lower arms outside the BH bracket. ...And maybe I can leave the rod in place, leaving the end of the sway control link on the rod when BH is installed.

...Or maybe space the BH bracket away from the axle housing so that the lower arm fits between the housing and the BH bracket?

/chris

 

[LHoyer]

That is only a hitch. Not needed for 3 pt operation.

 

[KubotainNH]

Intesting how this question has come up a couple times lately. On your picture numbered IMGP0149 there is a cover. If you look at pictures I posted on this thread http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/70830-b6100-picture-2.html you can see how my b6100 is setup running off the box.

 

[charlz]

Few more questions:

Is the rod cross-drilled for pins outside the lower arms?

yep

What are those rings between the lower arm spheres and the stabilizer things? Just a washer? It goes between the axle casting and the sway link end?

Where do the large washers go?

The washers came with it but I don't actually see them on the parts diagram. I put the large ones against the axle casting, then the sway bracket, then the small washer and then the lower arm. The pins go in the end of the rod to hold it all in place.

I'm thinking I need to buy a rod long enough to put my lower arms outside the BH bracket. ...And maybe I can leave the rod in place, leaving the end of the sway control link on the rod when BH is installed.

That is what I was thinking... not sure if it is possible though. You are a good step ahead of me by already having holes in the brackets One thing to think about is how to secure the pin from sliding around. My hitch has a bolt in the bottom which, when tightened, goes into indentions on the rod. Supposedly to hold it in place.

...Or maybe space the BH bracket away from the axle housing so that the lower arm fits between the housing and the BH bracket?

Dunno if there is room for that.. might be.

I guess it all comes done to how often you will switch the hoe on and off. It can take me an hour (probably less now) to switch from one setup to the other. This tends to make me 'save up' my backhoe jobs

Making any headway on the hyd for your loader? Sucks to not be able to drop the hoe cause then your loader is useless.

Charles