When mounting my FEL last time I caught the front of the bucket against a pallet on the floor and pushed the right "arm" out of line. Now when I try to mount the FEL I have to push the right side in with my foot a bit to get it to line up when the left side is over the bracket. Anyone know what the correct measure should be between the "arms"? Should I try to "bend" it back into spec? Any suggestions as to the best method for doing this is?
bent bx24 fel "arm"
- Thread starter timalabim
- Start date
Timber
Veteran Member
I would just try using it for a while first. You might find just working with it will put it right
RoyJackson
Rest in Peace
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- Bethel, Vermont
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- John Deere 4052R Cab,, Deere 855D UTV, Z920A Zero Turn Mower and assorted implements
You could try this:
1) Measure the spacing between the arms (I think you mean "masts" though, if they're the sections that are vertical, once installed on the tractor) nearest the pivot point for the foward section of the loader (the cylinders mount here). That should give you the width between the "arms".
(OPTION: Go to you Kubota Dealer and measure one there)
2) Use a Come-along to pull the arms to the correct spacing. Use caution to ensure you don't pull the "good" arm out of alignment. If this loader isn't too heavy, you could put the "good" side against something to support it and use the come-along rigged to the support (I hope that makes sense).
Before you try this, try Timber's idea...install and remove the loader five or six times and see what happens.
Good luck..
1) Measure the spacing between the arms (I think you mean "masts" though, if they're the sections that are vertical, once installed on the tractor) nearest the pivot point for the foward section of the loader (the cylinders mount here). That should give you the width between the "arms".
(OPTION: Go to you Kubota Dealer and measure one there)
2) Use a Come-along to pull the arms to the correct spacing. Use caution to ensure you don't pull the "good" arm out of alignment. If this loader isn't too heavy, you could put the "good" side against something to support it and use the come-along rigged to the support (I hope that makes sense).
Before you try this, try Timber's idea...install and remove the loader five or six times and see what happens.
Good luck..
kwolfe
Platinum Member
I think I have a similar problem. The pin of the left side of the loader bracket slides in with no effort, however I need to twist and push the right side holding pin in. I figure that the loader arms must not be aligned just right. I just learned to live with it. I would rather put a few seconds more into twisting the pin than have to haul it to the dealer and potentially pay $.
art
Super Member
Often with pin problems it's just the air pressure in the rear tires. That is the one thing that catches most people.
We just had a unique catch here with a tractor, the matching tires weren't the same height! It left the bucket 1/4" off the floor on one side. We went for a loader mounting issue after checking the air pressure not thinking it could be a difference in tractor tire height with them being the same make and size. Often we find the difference in loader brackets that might not have been in the jig right before welding but this one caught us off gaurd!
We just had a unique catch here with a tractor, the matching tires weren't the same height! It left the bucket 1/4" off the floor on one side. We went for a loader mounting issue after checking the air pressure not thinking it could be a difference in tractor tire height with them being the same make and size. Often we find the difference in loader brackets that might not have been in the jig right before welding but this one caught us off gaurd!
Timber
Veteran Member
That is so true, My semi trailers are very effected by the ground they sit on. If they are not level from front to rear or one set of wheels are in a dip or a hole the swing doors won't latch, The lift gates wont rise behind there keepers. They will even bind against the side rails. Life is Good