A couple of concerns-and questions-regarding a new lawn and prep for a new lawn:
I have recently “cleared” an L-shaped 18,000 sq. ft. area. “Cleared” in the sense the area is now free of 4’-6’ tall weeds, saplings, unwanted trees, etc. The area slopes gradually over the 200’ length (the south portion is 6’ higher than the north portion; east-west axis is virtually level. Approximately 1/4th of the area remains in near total shade most of the day. In this region the existing soil is referred to “farm loam.” It contains minimal numbers of rocks visible on the surface and is fully covered with grasses (unknown variety, not worth keeping) and different weeds, which I mow/hack to a 3” height once per week using an old Honda self-propelled walk behind. The surface is subject to occasional flow during spring runoff and is currently (Aug. 4, 2007) moderately “hard” to the touch. Walk on this stuff during snowmelt/Spring runoff and you sink in beyond ankle level.
I have a BX 2350, FEL and 60” mower-and have received conflicting advice concerning my plans to prepare the area for a lawn. Necessary equipment will be rented from a local Kubota dealer.
1. To break up the soil, loosen and detach weeds, etc. Some have suggested power raking, others roto-tilling, still others a box blade-all followed by York raking to remove loosened debris and establish final grade, subsequently followed with dragging a 4’x6’ section of scrap chain link fence weighted with concrete blocks. Implement rental in this area (No. Central Massachusetts) runs $200-$300 per day and two full days are envisioned. Which (of Power Rake, Roto-tiller or Box Blade) is most appropriate for the required tasks? Info-I have no experience with any of the tools mentioned. The daily tool rental charge includes either a B21 or a B7800-so my plan is to use my BX2350 to follow and supplement the rental tractor and device. The “shoe” of the L-shape portion contains several live trees (white scrub pine, maples), each having visible and large roots on the surface. Fewer than 50 “small” rocks, estimated to weigh from 5 lbs. to 100 lbs. are visible on the surface, but imbedded in the soil throughout the 18K sq. ft. area.
2. I have been told 4” of clean, screened loam should be spread over the “farm loam” following application of a “total kill” herbicide, such as Round-Up. Others have indicated 1”-2”, combined with the “farm loam” is all that is necessary and no herbicide is necessary. The $$ difference is considerable (screened loam runs $25-$30 per yard, small discount for orders in excess of 100 yards)). Essentially, I’m looking for this lawn to adjoin and extend my existing lawn with a few 30’x50’ areas reserved for raised beds for shrubbery, ornamental trees and a small vegetable garden. Is 4” spread over existing “farm loam” considered a “must have,” or is it “nice to have?” How much is enough? Is herbicide a definite necessity?
3. This may appear as a silly question-bear in mind I am a novice with tractors-but in terms of wear and tear on the tractor and ease of use of the suggested implement-are there advantages/disadvantages to performing the tasks in an uphill or downhill direction? Or, is that of no consideration or concern?
4. Yet another (a Hydro seeding dealer offering no guarantee of results) has suggested my plan is overkill-simply spread 2” of screened loam over the existing grass and weeds, establish a finish contour-and leave the rest to him other than watering.
5. Yet another has indicated spreading screened loam is a mistake as the loam can be loaded with weed seeds. His suggestion is a mix of 40% topsoil, 30% sand and 30% compost.
6. Yet another indicates all the “farm loam” must be totally removed and replacement screened loam purchased and spread, a daunting proposition in terms of estimated cost.
7. Yet another raised a point not considered-yet now worrisome given a 3% grade. The neighboring property. This fellow indicates the possibility that in the event of a heavy, prolonged rain any new soil added may simply wash away or slide as one unit onto my neighbor’s property (and in-ground pool) because it will not be “anchored” to the existing soil until next Spring.
All of which is well-meaning, but confusing as it makes little sense to me that three different implements accomplish essentially the identical result with the same effort and expense. Is one implement preferable for this use than another? If so, why? Additional soil to what depth is required? 10 different “experts” offer 8 different answers.
Thanks for all thoughts, comments and suggestions.
I have recently “cleared” an L-shaped 18,000 sq. ft. area. “Cleared” in the sense the area is now free of 4’-6’ tall weeds, saplings, unwanted trees, etc. The area slopes gradually over the 200’ length (the south portion is 6’ higher than the north portion; east-west axis is virtually level. Approximately 1/4th of the area remains in near total shade most of the day. In this region the existing soil is referred to “farm loam.” It contains minimal numbers of rocks visible on the surface and is fully covered with grasses (unknown variety, not worth keeping) and different weeds, which I mow/hack to a 3” height once per week using an old Honda self-propelled walk behind. The surface is subject to occasional flow during spring runoff and is currently (Aug. 4, 2007) moderately “hard” to the touch. Walk on this stuff during snowmelt/Spring runoff and you sink in beyond ankle level.
I have a BX 2350, FEL and 60” mower-and have received conflicting advice concerning my plans to prepare the area for a lawn. Necessary equipment will be rented from a local Kubota dealer.
1. To break up the soil, loosen and detach weeds, etc. Some have suggested power raking, others roto-tilling, still others a box blade-all followed by York raking to remove loosened debris and establish final grade, subsequently followed with dragging a 4’x6’ section of scrap chain link fence weighted with concrete blocks. Implement rental in this area (No. Central Massachusetts) runs $200-$300 per day and two full days are envisioned. Which (of Power Rake, Roto-tiller or Box Blade) is most appropriate for the required tasks? Info-I have no experience with any of the tools mentioned. The daily tool rental charge includes either a B21 or a B7800-so my plan is to use my BX2350 to follow and supplement the rental tractor and device. The “shoe” of the L-shape portion contains several live trees (white scrub pine, maples), each having visible and large roots on the surface. Fewer than 50 “small” rocks, estimated to weigh from 5 lbs. to 100 lbs. are visible on the surface, but imbedded in the soil throughout the 18K sq. ft. area.
2. I have been told 4” of clean, screened loam should be spread over the “farm loam” following application of a “total kill” herbicide, such as Round-Up. Others have indicated 1”-2”, combined with the “farm loam” is all that is necessary and no herbicide is necessary. The $$ difference is considerable (screened loam runs $25-$30 per yard, small discount for orders in excess of 100 yards)). Essentially, I’m looking for this lawn to adjoin and extend my existing lawn with a few 30’x50’ areas reserved for raised beds for shrubbery, ornamental trees and a small vegetable garden. Is 4” spread over existing “farm loam” considered a “must have,” or is it “nice to have?” How much is enough? Is herbicide a definite necessity?
3. This may appear as a silly question-bear in mind I am a novice with tractors-but in terms of wear and tear on the tractor and ease of use of the suggested implement-are there advantages/disadvantages to performing the tasks in an uphill or downhill direction? Or, is that of no consideration or concern?
4. Yet another (a Hydro seeding dealer offering no guarantee of results) has suggested my plan is overkill-simply spread 2” of screened loam over the existing grass and weeds, establish a finish contour-and leave the rest to him other than watering.
5. Yet another has indicated spreading screened loam is a mistake as the loam can be loaded with weed seeds. His suggestion is a mix of 40% topsoil, 30% sand and 30% compost.
6. Yet another indicates all the “farm loam” must be totally removed and replacement screened loam purchased and spread, a daunting proposition in terms of estimated cost.
7. Yet another raised a point not considered-yet now worrisome given a 3% grade. The neighboring property. This fellow indicates the possibility that in the event of a heavy, prolonged rain any new soil added may simply wash away or slide as one unit onto my neighbor’s property (and in-ground pool) because it will not be “anchored” to the existing soil until next Spring.
All of which is well-meaning, but confusing as it makes little sense to me that three different implements accomplish essentially the identical result with the same effort and expense. Is one implement preferable for this use than another? If so, why? Additional soil to what depth is required? 10 different “experts” offer 8 different answers.
Thanks for all thoughts, comments and suggestions.