Prep & Equipment for new lawn

[DEERFIELD]

A couple of concerns-and questions-regarding a new lawn and prep for a new lawn:

I have recently “cleared” an L-shaped 18,000 sq. ft. area. “Cleared” in the sense the area is now free of 4’-6’ tall weeds, saplings, unwanted trees, etc. The area slopes gradually over the 200’ length (the south portion is 6’ higher than the north portion; east-west axis is virtually level. Approximately 1/4th of the area remains in near total shade most of the day. In this region the existing soil is referred to “farm loam.” It contains minimal numbers of rocks visible on the surface and is fully covered with grasses (unknown variety, not worth keeping) and different weeds, which I mow/hack to a 3” height once per week using an old Honda self-propelled walk behind. The surface is subject to occasional flow during spring runoff and is currently (Aug. 4, 2007) moderately “hard” to the touch. Walk on this stuff during snowmelt/Spring runoff and you sink in beyond ankle level.

I have a BX 2350, FEL and 60” mower-and have received conflicting advice concerning my plans to prepare the area for a lawn. Necessary equipment will be rented from a local Kubota dealer.

1. To break up the soil, loosen and detach weeds, etc. Some have suggested power raking, others roto-tilling, still others a box blade-all followed by York raking to remove loosened debris and establish final grade, subsequently followed with dragging a 4’x6’ section of scrap chain link fence weighted with concrete blocks. Implement rental in this area (No. Central Massachusetts) runs $200-$300 per day and two full days are envisioned. Which (of Power Rake, Roto-tiller or Box Blade) is most appropriate for the required tasks? Info-I have no experience with any of the tools mentioned. The daily tool rental charge includes either a B21 or a B7800-so my plan is to use my BX2350 to follow and supplement the rental tractor and device. The “shoe” of the L-shape portion contains several live trees (white scrub pine, maples), each having visible and large roots on the surface. Fewer than 50 “small” rocks, estimated to weigh from 5 lbs. to 100 lbs. are visible on the surface, but imbedded in the soil throughout the 18K sq. ft. area.

2. I have been told 4” of clean, screened loam should be spread over the “farm loam” following application of a “total kill” herbicide, such as Round-Up. Others have indicated 1”-2”, combined with the “farm loam” is all that is necessary and no herbicide is necessary. The $$ difference is considerable (screened loam runs $25-$30 per yard, small discount for orders in excess of 100 yards)). Essentially, I’m looking for this lawn to adjoin and extend my existing lawn with a few 30’x50’ areas reserved for raised beds for shrubbery, ornamental trees and a small vegetable garden. Is 4” spread over existing “farm loam” considered a “must have,” or is it “nice to have?” How much is enough? Is herbicide a definite necessity?

3. This may appear as a silly question-bear in mind I am a novice with tractors-but in terms of wear and tear on the tractor and ease of use of the suggested implement-are there advantages/disadvantages to performing the tasks in an uphill or downhill direction? Or, is that of no consideration or concern?

4. Yet another (a Hydro seeding dealer offering no guarantee of results) has suggested my plan is overkill-simply spread 2” of screened loam over the existing grass and weeds, establish a finish contour-and leave the rest to him other than watering.

5. Yet another has indicated spreading screened loam is a mistake as the loam can be loaded with weed seeds. His suggestion is a mix of 40% topsoil, 30% sand and 30% compost.

6. Yet another indicates all the “farm loam” must be totally removed and replacement screened loam purchased and spread, a daunting proposition in terms of estimated cost.

7. Yet another raised a point not considered-yet now worrisome given a 3% grade. The neighboring property. This fellow indicates the possibility that in the event of a heavy, prolonged rain any new soil added may simply wash away or slide as one unit onto my neighbor’s property (and in-ground pool) because it will not be “anchored” to the existing soil until next Spring.

All of which is well-meaning, but confusing as it makes little sense to me that three different implements accomplish essentially the identical result with the same effort and expense. Is one implement preferable for this use than another? If so, why? Additional soil to what depth is required? 10 different “experts” offer 8 different answers.

Thanks for all thoughts, comments and suggestions.

 

[escavader]

HI DEERFIELD,

Before id go rent a bunch of stuff,id see what i could accomplish with my front end loader.Get it all knocked down and pluck all the big rocks.
The soil cant be all that bad ,stuff seems to be growing in it good.Who is to say the soil you buy is better? My concern would be the soft soil in the spring.If your content to stay off it during wet times,then thats fine.If not.i would take your tractor and move 4 to 6 inches off top soil off to one side[you could make a screen and kill two birds with one stone],then i would apply 8 to 10 inches of sand,then put your top soil back on.THINK OF THE SEAT TIME!!! I did this to my back lawn,which sounds just like yours,and i can drive on it year round.[however ,im just adding my top soil 5 years later .I didnt screen it either so i just bought a new york rake ]
SO,now your at the point to the final leveling .drag a bed spring or an i beam around,youll be suprised with the results.
Still worried about that so called farmers loam? Throw some seed on it ,and see what happens,i think youll be fine now.Remember hay has weeds in it ,so id try to borrow a roller and pack it in.
With a little loader work,a homemade screen, some sand,some grass seed,some diesal fuel,and alot of fun seat time ,youll end up with a nice lawn,with good drainage.
ps,and an excuse to buy a RIDING mower
ALAN

 

[jeffinsgf]

I established a lawn a couple years ago, on 30,000 square feet, with very limited previous experience. Here's my take on your options.

Existing vegatation:

It is going to make everything you try to do more of a challange. Knock it down with glysophate before you do anything else, and it will all go easier. I would mow it tight, give it a couple days to start growing again, hit it with glysophate, then if conditions and local regulations permit, burn the residue when it turns brown.

Wet area:

It won't get better by itself. I would install a French drain now. If you wait until the rest of the yard is established, you'll just be tearing up newly established turf and the repaired area will be behind for years.

Soil supplementation:

There's a little truth in every bit of advise you've received so far. As far as topsoil/loam goes, more is better -- however that must be tempered with reality and budget constraints. Personally, I would not amend the soil without incorporating it into the existing soil. Run away from the guy who suggested dropping 2 inches of topsoil on top of the existing vegatation and hydroseeding. That's just going to establish a strata layer that will haunt you for years. After knocking down the existing vegatation, I would bring in as much compost and topsoil as you feel comfortable paying for (this is also after you have your drainage issue solved). A calculated 2 inches would be very good -- more would be even better. Incorporate that with the existing soil with a rototiller. The Harley rake or power rake would be a good choice if you are not going to amend, but with soil amendment, a tiller is a better choice. Then, rent or buy (you'll need it for other projects) a landscape rake - preferably with gauge wheels - to work out your final grade.

If the budget isn't busted yet, hydroseeding is an excellent option, and should avoid the runoff issues mentioned by one bidder. There are times I regret doing my own seeding instead of having my lawn hydroseeded. If I could have found someone who would have blown zoysia, I probably would have done it.

And, if there are still a few pennies in the piggybank, nothing you can do for your turf will have more effect than irrigation. Now is MUCH better than later. Any seeded lawn, whether broadcast or hydroseeded, is going to need lots of water in the germination stage and careful nurturing in the seedling stage. There's no easier way to do this than with an inground, regulated, automatic irrigation system.

Timing:

Get a move on. You wan't your seed in so that you have a chance to mow your grass a few times before winter sets in. I am going to guess in MA that means you want it in the last week of August or the first week of September.

 

[isv]

I hired the following piece of kit, attached it to my B3030, and simply converted the roughest piece of wasteland/lawn you're ever likely to see.

http://www.blec.co.uk/Blecavator.pdf

Once my application of Roundup took effect I hired the Blec and went over the ground once to dig all the stones and weeds under and break up the soil. Next I covered the area with compost and some topsoil borrowed from another part of the garden and then went over the area a second time and mixed the compost in.

Once I'd got the earth prepared I raked the area level (5' rake on the tractor) firmed it up and then sowed grass seed.

In total I prepared approx 22,000 (over 0.5 acre) of ground and sowed a new lawn in less than a day.

I did this back in May and it looks terrific. I'm going to do another 0.5 acre of lawn next month using the same approach.

 

[bravo36]

FYI< you may want to check with your local landfill operation. Ours make their own mulch/compost/topsoil dressing and sell it by the truckload very cheap, and it's very good and rich.

 

[Egon]

The Brown thumb thoughts:

On the cheap;

As mentioned use loader to remove debris and rough level.
Access the water situation and install drainage. [Type depends on situation]
Cultivate and work soil till it is loose and easily moved.
Use a drag as long as the tractor can pull. [ Square Timber balk, I beam etc. ] make attachments so it can be angled and pull it across the "lawn to be" from many different directions. This should level and grade the area. It should be able to move dirt from high to low spots and act like a grader blade.

Then a light disking and seeding.

The addition?? of extra soil should be accessed after the rotatilling is finished.

If the area gets mowed time spent up front leveling is well spent. Your back will thank you many times over.

I'd prefer a rototiller for the cultivation.