Grading Grading with toothbar on BX24?

[asylum575]

After lurking for some time here, I will be pulling the trigger on a BX24 in the next week. I have 1 1/2 acres that I will be clearing with the help of my chainsaw, bandit chipper and the new BX. I will be moving ALOT of dirt and ripping stumps of the trees. I'll probably get the Brotek ripper tooth for that work. My question is , can I use the loader to backfill and grade with a toothbar on it? I was thinking the toothbar really helps digging, but is it a handicap when filling and leveling? I plan on a boxblade and rake, but for a matter of convenience, just wondering how the loader with toothbar will work when the backhoe is on.

Ed

 

[acohen100]

If you plan on backdragging the bucket to level then yes, the toothbar will impede you. However, if you have a lot of grading to do it could be quite onerous to do with the bucket. I would get a rake or blade to do the grading.

 

[TalonDancer]

I'm a novice tractor owner but FWIW...

Although many members of TBN swear by their tooth bars, I decided that a tooth bar was redundant for me and possibly a hinderance, since i had a back-hoe and box blade with rippers. So i added a cutting edge to my bucket to reduce wear and strengthen the bucket.

The cutting edge allows me to grade by back dragging with the bucket slightly tilted down. The cutting edge is replaceable and keeps the wear off the bucket. This also keeps the back of the bucket (read quick attach pins, etc.) much cleaner.

If I can't "dig in" with the cutting edge, I turn the tractor around and use the back-hoe or box blade rippers to soften up the area first. The back-hoe is only effective in small areas but the box blade rippers are just as wide as my FEL bucket

Talon Dancer

 

[bx24]

No question in my mind ....

For small areas, yes you can level with the FEL even with a toothbar (but yes it is easier w/out it .... Having said that, it "digs" a lot better with the toothbar)

For larger areas, the box blade works the best. If you are lucky, you will get a couple of rains between your first and final effort to settle the areas you filled in with the box blade. My box (king kutter) has 3 hole positions, I would use the middle position for your rough work and all the way up (or off) for the final grading.

 

[rpoage]

I just finished a lot of patching and at first I used the FEL bucket to back drag and level out the top soil but I found it compacted the soil too much for my taste. I ended up using the old manual labor(hand rake). I'm planning on doing the whole yard in a year or so and I'm planning on using the FELl and box scraper for the rough work and a landscape rake for the fine work.

 

[asylum575]

It seems that the toothbar would be ok, providing I get a rake and boxblade. That seems to be the way to go.

 

[Tdog]

575, don't skip the toothbar - - it's a definite advantage if you plan to clear any small saplings & brush. Yes, backdragging with the edge of the FEL makes a smooth finish, but you can use the heel of the bucket & get a decent effect. And you can level moving forward as well as in reverse.

Besides, if you really want to use the lip of the FEL, you can always take the toothbar off - - it unbolts in a jiffy.

Jack

 

[RayCo]

I got my BX with a bolt-on toothbar. When I used the loader for a grading a few weeks later, I took it off, as it clearly would not have done anything but ruin the grade quality. I have a 4ft grader blade, but it's Cat0 and it dangled in the air like a toy when I put it on! Unfortunately, neither of my Cat0 tractors was running at the time, and I wasn't about to spend the time necessary on either with a shiny, new, turnkey BX sitting there.

 

[WALT]

A toothbar in combination with a landscape rake make a great combination for spreading material and leveling. I have installed many lawns and have spread 1000's of yards of topsoil using this method. The advantage of using a toothbar back dragging is that it gives your piles a consistent height prior to raking. That is the key to achieving a level and smooth rough grade prior to using the landscape rake (with wheels) to get your finish grade.

When I spread topsoil, I try to dump it evenly, then I drive back over it, set the bucket to a 25-30 degree angle with slight down pressure, and rake it backwards. With my BX 2200 I can do about 7-8 yards per hour. With my L-39, I can do 12-13 yards per hour. Early in my learning curve, without a tooth bar, I ending up with wavy piles that were difficult to finish rake. The material flows smoothly under the tooth bar at a consistent height with this method.

If you buy a landscape rake, spend the extra money for the wheel kit. That way the rake follows the ground, not the 3 pt. hitch & the tractor.

A boxblade works best for the rough grade only, as it follows your 3 pt. adjustment, not the ground. Unless you can maintain the finish grade by constantly adjusting it as you go. Most (including me) do not have that ability, while working it in a timely manner.

Good Luck:
WALT