question about hydraulics. Log splitter

   / question about hydraulics. Log splitter #11  
allen in texas said:
I'm new here but I read a lot so I thought I would make my first post and ask a question. Or several as the case may be...
I have a 3240 and I want to build a log splitter for the 3pt and run it off of one of the remotes.
First, I am wondering about what cylinder to use.
I am considering a 4 inch with an 18 in stroke.
Big enough? Too big?

Would the cycle time be too slow, ie to extend and retract.
Would it have enough power? (most likely)

Welcome to TBN posting !

The L3240 has a 8.3 gpm pump so with the engine at around 2500 rpm a 4" cylinder will go 2-1/2" per second and a 3" cylinder will go 4-1/2" per second.

The relief pressure is around 1800 psi so a 3" cylinder will work ok if the wedge has a slow taper. A 4" cylinder has 77% more ram area so makes 77% more force. That allows a faster taper on the wedge so most of your wood splits open with less travel. This means the actual working strokes may be shorter with a 4" cylinder and cycle time may not be that much longer.

On length, its always good to be able to push all the way if needed. Stringy stuff can be a pain if the ram can't go most of the way to the wedge. 24" is a good stroke length.
 
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   / question about hydraulics. Log splitter #12  
I have a 4" valve with a 24" stroke for my B7800. Cycle time is not the greatest,but acceptable, and it is powerful enough to split almost anything.
Hope this helps, best of luck.
Pat
 
   / question about hydraulics. Log splitter
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Ok I came back to check this this afternoon and there are some really good ideas out there.
First,
Thanks everyone for responding.
Second, as far as working the tractor controls from the splitter, I was just going to fabricate a lever on the splitter with a link to the control lever on the tractor.
Seems to be a really simple thing to do, and besides, the PTO driven hydraulic pump is putting this out of my price range. I strongly considered a PTO pump.

I was going to base my splitter on this one http://www.ramsplitter.com/000_0082.jpg.

I probably did the link wrong, but I'm learning

I don't have large wood to split but if I have the occasional large log I want to be able to handle it.
I've found a new 4" x 20" cylinder for a pretty good price and I already have an 8 foot piece if "I" beam to use.
I guess I just need decide if I want vertical or horizontal, whether I want to push the log or push the wedge and go buy a couple of hoses and some orange paint and then get to work.
 
   / question about hydraulics. Log splitter #14  
Ovrsxd, I am using the tractor's hydraulics. In the picture the hoses aren't hooked up, but when I'm using the splitter I disconnect the quick connects on the hydraulic lines to the loader and connect the splitter in there.
 
   / question about hydraulics. Log splitter #15  
bross said:
Ovrsxd, I am using the tractor's hydraulics. In the picture the hoses aren't hooked up, but when I'm using the splitter I disconnect the quick connects on the hydraulic lines to the loader and connect the splitter in there.

You are accessing the hydraulic flow prior to it going into the loader controllers?? If so that would make sense.
 
   / question about hydraulics. Log splitter #16  
allen in texas said:
*snip*
I guess I just need decide if I want vertical or horizontal, whether I want to push the log or push the wedge and go buy a couple of hoses and some orange paint and then get to work.

Allen,

I've used both types of splitters quite a bit... I very much prefer the wedge being mounted to the hydraulic cylinder. That way the log stays stationary while splitting, and you don't have to try to catch and hold it while it's moving. With big pieces, it makes for a lot less struggling with the wood. With the wedge stationary, you have to drag the log back into position each time for the next split.

I'd suggest you try each type, if possible, before you make your decision. I think you'll find that the wedge-on-cylinder design is the easiest and fastest to work with.
 
   / question about hydraulics. Log splitter
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Thanks Brian.
I had pretty much decided to push the wedge.
Pretty much for the reasons you mention
I had decided on a horizontal but after a lot of thought, It would be pretty simple to hinge and pin it to go either way.
 
   / question about hydraulics. Log splitter #18  
Yep, I'd build a horizontal/vertical if it were me too. Easy enough to do.

Vertical isn't the most useful mode, but it sure does come in handy when you get into the hernia wood.
 
   / question about hydraulics. Log splitter #19  
I have a Kubota L3400 with a FEL and would like to tap into the hydraulics for a Northern equipment 3pt log splitter. I am willing to deal with the slow performance. It seems the easiest and least expensive method would be to connect into one of the QD on the FEL.
I would disconnect one of the bucket (curl) connectors for the valve input (should be a Prince LS3000) on the splitter. I don't believe the valve has a power beyond and therefore I would connect the valve return to a port plug (75541-68150) which is available through Kubota for about $20. Finally I would use a bungee cord to hold the valve open on the FEL and use the valve on the splitter. The only additional expenses in this setup are the 2 hoses with QD and the port plug. If I am missing something in this design I would greatly appreciate any input . Thanks
greg
 

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   / question about hydraulics. Log splitter #20  
Greg:

You can accomplish what you want by connecting the log splitter valve to the A and B ports of the bucket spool with quick disconnects and then holding the bucket spool open with a bungee cord in the direction required to sent high pressure fluid from the pump to the inlet port on the splitter valve.

But there is a risk of at least damaging the seals on the splitter valve (and perhaps worse) if you use the three point hitch at the same time that the FEL spool is shifted, since the splitter valve has no power beyond. The pressure needed to operate the tph will also be present in the exhaust gallery of the splitter valve, and I doubt (but have not checked) if it is rated for more than 200-500 psig back pressure. You can probably get by if you return the FEL spool to neutral every time you raise the tph, but that seems like a trap for someone who is not familiar with the system.
If (and that's a big if) you are not going to use the three point hitch,
 
 
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