question about hydraulics. Log splitter

   / question about hydraulics. Log splitter #1  

allen in texas

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Joined
Oct 26, 2007
Messages
916
Location
Levelland, TX
Tractor
Kubota Grand L 5740, loaded R1's w/640 lbs cast weight, 854 loader
I'm new here but I read a lot so I thought I would make my first post and ask a question. Or several as the case may be...
I have a 3240 and I want to build a log splitter for the 3pt and run it off of one of the remotes.
First, I am wondering about what cylinder to use.
I am considering a 4 inch with an 18 in stroke.
Big enough? Too big?

Would the cycle time be too slow, ie to extend and retract.
Would it have enough power? (most likely)

Not much else to ask right now.

allen
 
   / question about hydraulics. Log splitter #2  
4" should be big enough for most splitting, but I think you'll want a longer stroke. Most I'm familiar with use 24" stroke or more.
 
   / question about hydraulics. Log splitter
  • Thread Starter
#3  
I can go 24 inches on the stroke. I haven't bought the cylinder yet.
 
   / question about hydraulics. Log splitter #4  
Most splitters I have seen are 4" (as mine is), but you would get 25% faster cycle times with a 3" ram. This should split most of the wood varieties out there. While I always prefer more power, time is becoming more and more important to me
 
   / question about hydraulics. Log splitter #5  
allen in texas said:
I can go 24 inches on the stroke. I haven't bought the cylinder yet.

Although I have a gas-powered splitter it does have a 4" x 24" cylinder with a two stage 16 gpm pump. With my splitter it splits anything I can lift onto it. I hear a lot about speed of splitting and from what I have found out it will keep me busy all day long and there are no moments that I am waiting on the splitter. Actually, I am happy to get ahead of it once in awhile just so I can catch my breath.

Few things that you might want to consider while you are building the splitter:

Log cradle: This is just a platform on each side of the splitting wedge that catches and holds the split log. Makes for less bending over once the piece is split into sections. Just pans on each side of the splitting area.

4 way wedge: I have one on my splitter and use it some of the time if the wood is the right size and only needs to be split into four pieces. They also make a 6-way wedge, not sure what kind of stress this puts onto the machine?

Log Lift: If you have an extra hydraulic line you could build a lift to move those big logs onto the splitter. I don't have one on my splitter, but there sure have been times when I wish I did.

Not sure just how much you plan on spending on a 3P hitch splitter, but when I was looking the price started at around 849 for 24" splitter. They had splitters ranging from 24" up to 48" in the 3P hitch models. Only had the 4 way wedges on the horizontal models.



I got mine from American M.S.R., Inc.
there websites:

Log splitter, wood conveyor and firewood processor by American CLS
 
   / question about hydraulics. Log splitter #6  
You really need to know: gpm output and hydraulic operating PSI of tractor to decide what cylinder size to use. Most tracors run at or above 2000psi line pressure but the pump outputs vary widely. My guess would be if your under 11gpm your going to be happier with a 4" cylinder, if it runs higher than that then a 5" will produce more force for the same line pressure.
 
   / question about hydraulics. Log splitter #7  
I used a 5" cylinder with a 24 inch travel. It has enough power to split anything but it's a little on the slow side. It's fast enough for me because I do most of my splitting by myself but if you are lucky enough to have a helper you'll have to wait on the splitter. If I build another one I would probably go with the 4" cylinder and give up some power for a little more speed. Splitter.jpg
 
   / question about hydraulics. Log splitter #8  
A question I have that is related to this is about hook-up.

We're getting a BX24 next week with a 2-spool valve for remote tilt and top cylinders.

Could a log splitter be plumbed into either the backhoe connections or the tilt/top valve?

Doesn't the circuit to the splitter need to be "live" all the time so that the control valve on the splitter functions properly?
 
   / question about hydraulics. Log splitter #9  
allen in texas said:
I'm new here but I read a lot so I thought I would make my first post and ask a question. Or several as the case may be...
I have a 3240 and I want to build a log splitter for the 3pt and run it off of one of the remotes.
First, I am wondering about what cylinder to use.
I am considering a 4 inch with an 18 in stroke.
Big enough? Too big?

Would the cycle time be too slow, ie to extend and retract.
Would it have enough power? (most likely)

Not much else to ask right now.

allen

I built mine with a PTO 21 gpm pump, 4.5"cyl barrel with 2" ram, 24" stroke. I used a PTO pump to get speed. The pump cost me $429. I put a high value on speed so it was worth it to me. Cycle time of 4-5 seconds. I also built a catch platform for the split pieces. I love my splitter. For those logs you can't lift I simply lower it to the ground and roll it on. For normal sized logs I have the splitter at a height that doesn't kill my back. I don't like vertical splitters for that reason. When you are done splitting the wood is laying on the ground. I've attached a couple pics. I really enjoyed building mine, hope you do too.

Question for everyone using remotes,,,, how do you reach the remote lever while holding the log on the splitter??? Hmmmmm..... :confused:
 

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   / question about hydraulics. Log splitter #10  
bross said:
I used a 5" cylinder with a 24 inch travel. It has enough power to split anything but it's a little on the slow side. It's fast enough for me because I do most of my splitting by myself but if you are lucky enough to have a helper you'll have to wait on the splitter. If I build another one I would probably go with the 4" cylinder and give up some power for a little more speed.

Bross, I notice you have a valve on your splitter but are running it from the tractor's hydraulics. How do you do that??? Do you tarp strap the remote valve handle in an open position?? Thanks in advance for the clarification.
 
 
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