Is there a trick to this?

[Bird]

Didj'a ever see a box blade on a Road Job???

Yes, I have.

 

[2Botas]

I have not seen a box blade on a road crew, but i have seen alot of bulldozers. If the original poster had a bulldozer, i am sure he would not be asking about leveling with his FEL. Good point though.

 

[Harry c]

I have not seen a box blade on a road crew, but i have seen alot of bulldozers. If the original poster had a bulldozer, i am sure he would not be asking about leveling with his FEL. Good point though.

He asked about cutting grade with his FEL. He did not ask about a box blade. He did not ask about a bulldozer. He did not ask about a motorgrader either! The answer to any question related to grade on this forum seems to be answered by "position control" and "boxblade"... I know how to use my FEL and I have no need for a box blade. It takes much practice but the learning is fun. Keep hacking away and you'll get the feel.

 

[garren]

I think your question was how to do this with the FEL not what other equipment could do it, correct?

The plan is to shave off a thin layer much like a wood shaving with a pocket knife.

Yes, This is what I thought I needed to do. Shave off thin layers until I get the drive an even 4" below current grade. This is to match the existing drive approach that the city poured after a road repair.

I own a nice new box blade with scarifiers....so I guess, after reading all the posts, that I should drag the teeth through the hard packed gravel until loose.
Then shave and scoop with the FEL...Then drag some more if needed.

Who lives close by that wants to give a lesson?

_-Garren-_

 

[Tom_H]

He asked about cutting grade with his FEL. He did not ask about a box blade. He did not ask about a bulldozer. He did not ask about a motorgrader either! The answer to any question related to grade on this forum seems to be answered by "position control" and "boxblade"... I know how to use my FEL and I have no need for a box blade. It takes much practice but the learning is fun. Keep hacking away and you'll get the feel.

I've used FEL and BB for this and IMHO, box blade works a lot better, especially if there is position control or top 'n tilt. He might rent a box blade from a rental center. Leveling with just the FEL can be done, but would be time consuming contrasted with the BB.

If you are limited just to the FEL, the toothbar might help cut faster, but I'd take it off and use the front edge alone after your rough cuts. Driving backwards with a 25-30 degree angle is something you might try for leveling on your finishing passes.

Another thing to remember is to compact the surface well before making your pour. Having poor compaction will lead to settling and cracking. Setting rebar or remesh as well as making appropriate contraction joints will also help keep your sections monolithic.

 

[Ob1kubota]

I read other threads that said a toothbar is a must. Is it?

No, but what these other members have said it true, practice makes perfect it's an operating art that must be learned. Start with small bits and compact as you go. You'd be surprised what a good road bed you can build with patience and practice.

 

[LBrown59]

What works best for this a FEL or a Front Blade?

 

[KeithInSpace]

What works best for this a FEL or a Front Blade?

Relevant to the original question regarding smoothing out an area, a front blade would work better than a FEL, The "smoothing" part would be easier, but the "cutting" part would be a PITA without a toothbar on a FEL or scarifiers on a box blade...especially if it is hardpan or rocky. I couldn't imagine making much progress with a front blade alone on a project like this and swapping FEL to front blade is far too difficult for those of us only able to afford a single BX.

This exact project is where the unstoppable combination of a FEL and box blade comes in handy...rip it with the back, scoop it with the front, smooth it with the back, backdrag it with the front. Just that easy.

 

[LBrown59]

1* I was used to a front blade from using one on a garden tractor for 30 or 40 years, but using the FEL for this has always seemed more awkward to me than the front blade does.
2*
3*I can't either.
4* True but in my case since I have been fortunate enough to obtain both tractors and the implements I have for them I sure intend to take advantage of that arrangement.
BTW the way I agree with every thing you posted below.

1*Relevant to the original question regarding smoothing out an area, a front blade would work better than a FEL,
2*the "cutting" part would be a PITA without a tooth-bar on a FEL or scarifiers on a box blade...especially if it is hardpan or rocky.
3*I couldn't imagine making much progress with a front blade alone on a project like this.
4*swapping FEL to front blade is far too difficult for those of us only able to afford a single BX.

 

[LBrown59]

*I own a nice new box blade with scarifiers....so I guess, after reading all the posts, that I should drag the teeth through the hard packed gravel until loose.
Then shave and scoop with the FEL...Then drag some more if needed.
1*Who lives close by that wants to give a lesson?
_-Garren-_

*Yep that sums it up in a nut shell.
I don't have a Box Blade so i use a BX 1500 with a tiller and my BX 23 BackHoe to loosen things up.
1*I'm not close to you but I'm right next door to my neighbor whom I plan on helping to install a culvert and a 50 or 75 foot long drive way for his motor home.
Have you been trying to grade hard packed surfaces with just the feel-that don't work real well?