Is there a trick to this?

[garren]

I'm ready to tackle another project with the new L2800 so I'm needing input again before I start.

I'm wanting to pour a concrete driveway so I will need to excavate the old gravel and dirt drive down 3-4 inches in some places. Other spots may actually need dirt added to level it.

I have tried in the past to level areas on the farm or to grade out areas to be flat. I can never seem to get this done with the FEL. It will either gouge when the front wheels go through a depression or lift up and leave a high spot if I run over or rock or something. I try to keep my hand on the handle and anticipate the dips etc in front of me...but it just doesn't work. Whats the trick or technique?

I read other threads that said a toothbar is a must. Is it?

Thanks in advance
- Garren

 

[sixdogs]

Garren,
I just typed a five paragraph response to this that the system "erased" when I wasn't logged in. In response to you, and in frustration with the erasure of my effort, here's the short answer.
No trick at all. Get a wide landscape rake and a tractor with draft control. You are a pro after 10 minutes. Forget the bucket. I've been at this effort for many years and the only system that has worked for me is the above.
You could sort-of make it work if your loader had a "float detent" and you were good at backing up. Rock rake is better

 

[alchemysa]

The best way to level loose dirt is to drive slightly over the pile, dip the bucket to a slightly downwards angle, drop the bucket to the ground using float, then gun the tractor backwards while holding it in float. Its a really good, and quite easy, technique and is well worth mastering.

The high spots have to be loosened up first. Attached is simple ripper I knocked together using lightweight fence tube. (You dont always have to fork out heaps for expensive attachments.). As for rocks, you just have to pick them up by hand.

 

[Soundguy]

FEL's are so usefull that people forget about other implements.. this job is a shining example of why BOX BLADES were invented.

soundguy

I'm ready to tackle another project with the new L2800 so I'm needing input again before I start.

I'm wanting to pour a concrete driveway so I will need to excavate the old gravel and dirt drive down 3-4 inches in some places. Other spots may actually need dirt added to level it.

I have tried in the past to level areas on the farm or to grade out areas to be flat. I can never seem to get this done with the FEL. It will either gouge when the front wheels go through a depression or lift up and leave a high spot if I run over or rock or something. I try to keep my hand on the handle and anticipate the dips etc in front of me...but it just doesn't work. Whats the trick or technique?

I read other threads that said a toothbar is a must. Is it?

Thanks in advance
- Garren

 

[KeithInSpace]

Soundguy and I were typing at the same time...Why wouldn't a box blade work? It isn't nearly as sensitive to vertical bumps as the FEL. I've had very, very good success getting large areas level with only a 4' wide box. Just grab a beer and drive over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over the same areas at all directions and it will smooth itself right out.

Concur with float feature to backdrag gravel and smooth some things out, but if you're trying to get any large-ish area (something your tractor can drive inside) smooth, the box blade is the way to go, IMHO.

 

[JerryG]

FEL's are so usefull that people forget about other implements.. this job is a shining example of why BOX BLADES were invented.

soundguy

Exactly.
Rip it with the shanks down on the box blade then scoop it up with the loader. Or you can raise the shanks after ripping and pull the spoils with the box if you are only moving the dirt a short distance. If I was doing it, I would just rip and scoop.

 

[canoetrpr]

I've got a box blade on order exactly for these types of jobs.

 

[btolle]

Box blades are great for that type of work.

The trick is to get the angle (top link) adjusted. I start out with the box blade parallel to the ground. It will drag a lot of material in the box which will help fill in low spots. Then tilt the box blade so that the front of the box is higher than the box (lengthen the top link) and it will finish smoothing without pulling much material around in the box.

And I agree with the back and forth, etc. Just take your time and keep going back and forth and it will level the road out.

 

[Bird]

I, too, favor the box blade for that kind of work, and if you happen to have hydraulic top 'n tilt, then it's really easy.

 

[Harry c]

I'm ready to tackle another project with the new L2800 so I'm needing input again before I start.

I'm wanting to pour a concrete driveway so I will need to excavate the old gravel and dirt drive down 3-4 inches in some places. Other spots may actually need dirt added to level it.

I have tried in the past to level areas on the farm or to grade out areas to be flat. I can never seem to get this done with the FEL. It will either gouge when the front wheels go through a depression or lift up and leave a high spot if I run over or rock or something. I try to keep my hand on the handle and anticipate the dips etc in front of me...but it just doesn't work. Whats the trick or technique?

I read other threads that said a toothbar is a must. Is it?

Thanks in advance
- Garren

I think your question was how to do this with the FEL not what other equipment could do it, correct?

Control the depth by controlling the dump angle of the bucket. Put the bucket down flat, put a little down pressure. Don't use the float because as the bucket starts to cut the front of the tractor will lift off the ground from the resistance. Tilt the bucket ever so slightly forward and slowly roll forward. When the bucket "bites in" roll it back ever so slightly to keep your cut shallow but don't roll it back so far it comes up out of the dirt. The plan is to shave off a thin layer much like a wood shaving with a pocket knife. The angle not the downpressure controls the cut. Takes practice. If you get a washboard started, just backdrag some loose dirt over the bumps, roll it in and continue. If it's really hard as a mix of dirt and gravel usually is, run over it with whatever kind of plow or scarifier you can come up with. I use a cultivator. Bucket teeth make it really easy. Same procedure, no plow required, much easier to control the cut. Also, low RPM will make the control easier as the bucket will react more slowly and reduce your overcorrection.

Didj'a ever see a box blade on a Road Job???