Lift height problems with KK rake on B2620

[seapea]

I just attached a 7' KK landscape rake to my new B2620 and noticed a couple of problems. When I first hooked it up, the tube running from the 3PH triangle rake pivot point (not sure what this is called, by I'll call it the "top tube" for short), was not parallel to the ground when the rake was lowered. The rake side of the "top tube" was much higher than the 3PH side. This has two negative consequences:

• The tines are too upright and not angled forward enough.
• When I angle the rake, the side that is more forward is also quite a bit lower.

I tried adjusting the lifting rod length, but it just barely went far enough to even out the rake height, making it so the rake tines all touched the ground at the same time. Of course when I need to adjust the rake to angle the opposite way or have no angle, a lot more adjusting of the lift arm is needed. Also, this does not fix the problem of the rake tines being too upright.

I figured the solution is to lengthen the top link until the rake "top tube" is parallel with the ground when the rake is lowered. Sure enough this works. Now if I raise the rake a very small amount off the ground, I can swivel it in either direction and the rake remains parallel to the ground. This all angled the tines more forward rather than upright. However, this created a couple of problems:

• The top link is adjusted to within 1/4" of its maximum length. I'm guessing this weakens the top link, making it more prone to bending. Is this true? Should I be concerned about this when using a landscape rake? Should I get a longer top link?
• The lower links need to be almost fully raised in order to get the rake "top tube" parallel to the ground. Because of this I can only lift the rake 2" inches off the ground. I really need to shorten the top link some before transporting the rake.

Are these problems typical? Is there anything that can be done to get more lift height from the 3PH. The following is from the B2620 manual. However, I think it wrong. Moving the lift rods to position A requires lowering the lower links, thus lowering the implement, not raising it.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=98014&stc=1&d=1205563757

There is room to drill another hole in the lift rod 2" to 3" above the current hole. This would raise the rake about another 5", which would be enough for transport. Would this be OK to do? Should I just get a shorter lift rod?

thanks,

Chris

 

[MessickFarmEqu]

A 7ft rake is really too big for that tractor. The 3pt dimentions are probably made for a larger tractor.

 

[Leon Wittner]

Thats my guess also since I run a 6' KK with my L-2800 and it works just fine. I follow the Kubota Owners Manual dirrections for hooking in the top link to the tractor.

 

[aczlan]

Are these problems typical? Is there anything that can be done to get more lift height from the 3PH. The following is from the B2620 manual. However, I think it wrong. Moving the lift rods to position A requires lowering the lower links, thus lowering the implement, not raising it.

can you post a picture of the rake mounted on the tractor??? might make it easier to see a remedy...

Aaron Z

 

[seapea]

A 7ft rake is really too big for that tractor. The 3pt dimentions are probably made for a larger tractor.

The KK TYR-60, TYR-72, and TYR-84 all have the same geometry. I just went down to TSC and measured just to be sure. The triangle is the same. The distance from the triangle to the swivel post is the same. The tines are the same. The height of the tube running from the triangle to the swivel post is the same. This means that all 3 require that you left the link arms to the same height in order to get the rake parallel to the ground. You need to go with the TYR-60-XB to get something with smaller geometry. It's meant for sub compacts, and is only a 5' rake.

The main problem with the rake seems to be the length of the tines. Although I haven't compared side-by-size with other brands, they seem to be very long. They are definitely a lot longer than the KK TYR-60-XB.

BTW, I knew that 7' was somewhat pushing it for a B2620. However, others on TBN with similiarly sized tractors (B7610 e.g.) said they had no problems with them. I figured it would handled light work with no problem. If I ever do heavy work, I can always remove some tines.

Chris

 

[seapea]

can you post a picture of the rake mounted on the tractor??? might make it easier to see a remedy...

Aaron Z

Ok. I'll try to get some pictures posted soon.

Chris

 

[dirtworksequip]

seapea, ss far as one side of the rake contacting the ground before the other that would be caused by the side links not being adjusted equally. Remember the longer the rake the more exagerated this problem will be. It wouldn't be as noticable on a shorter length rake. I don't see that the actual angle that the tines contact the ground to be all that critical as to how it will perform. Maybe you are just obsessing over how you think it should look. Post some pics and maybe someone will set you straight or at least your rake.

Sincerely, Dirt

 

[seapea]

seapea, ss far as one side of the rake contacting the ground before the other that would be caused by the side links not being adjusted equally.

This I realized. I believe I mentioned previously that I did adjust the right lift rod length to correct the problem. However, this correction needs to made each time I change the angle of the rake. If I want the left side of the rake forward, I need to lengthen the right lift rod. If I want the right side forward then I need to shorten it. If I want no angle, then I need to undo any adustment I made when I angled the rake.

Remember the longer the rake the more exagerated this problem will be. It wouldn't be as noticable on a shorter length rake.

This is true. It would be less of a problem with a 6' rake, or I could remove some tines.

I don't see that the actual angle that the tines contact the ground to be all that critical as to how it will perform. Maybe you are just obsessing over how you think it should look.

Always!

IPost some pics and maybe someone will set you straight or at least your rake.

Sincerely, Dirt

Here's a picture of the setup when the rake "top tube" is parallel to the ground. This is my preferred setup, because it allows the rake to angled left and right without causing one side of the rake to dip, which then requires adjusting the length of the right lift rod. In this setup, the top link is extended to within 3/8" of an inch of its maximum length. Note that the lower link is at about 22".

parallel_top_tube.jpg

Here's a picture of the above setup with the lower links fully raised. They only went up another 2", so this got the rake tines 2" off the ground, not really enough for transport.

parallel_max_lift.jpg

Here's a picture with the top tube angled so it is lower on the 3PH side. I shortened the top link by about 1.5" from the previous setup. The lower links are at about 16" now rather than 22", so when fully raised the rake is about 12" off the ground.

angled_top_tube.jpg

With the top tub angled down as pictured above, if I angle the rake, the side the I angle forward dips a lot. With the rake fully raised, it dips to 3" off the ground (from the 12" if the rake is not angled). I adjust the right lift rod to fix this. It doesn't take too much, but keep in mind this adjustment needs to be made whenever I change the blade angle. Here's a picture of the lift rod with the adjustment. The lock nut is at the old adjustment.

angled_lift_rod.jpg

The other issue with having the rake top tube angled down is that the tines become more upright. The following two pictures show the difference, although it is not as big as I thought it was.

tines1.jpg
tines2.jpg

I'm thinking that as long as I use gauge wheels, I might be ok with the setup that has the angled top tube since I don't believe I will need to adjust the lift rod length. I'll just put the 3PH all the way down, and let the gauge wheels do their job to level out the rake. The only potential problem is that when the rake is angled and fully lifted, one end is only 3" off the ground, so I'll just have to not have the rake angled when transporting it.

Chris

 

[dirtworksequip]

seapea, from what I can see is that the size of your tractor doesn't have enough 3pt lift height for that model rake. So, if you are set on using that rake you will have to live with constantly making somekind of adjustment to the 3pt. You may just modify your raking technique to lessen the amount you have to adjust the rake. Looks as though maybe the sub cut model rake might have worked out better on your model tractor. I'd bet that the distance from the ground to the draft link pins is shorter on the sub cut model rake. That would allow you to lift it higher with your model tractors 3pt.

Looks like the gauge wheels throw in a whole other factor. I'm thinking this rake isn't going to work with your 3pt hitch lift height.

Good luck, Dirt

p.s. Glad you realize you are obsessive, thats half the battle and obsessing over your tractor is cheaper than therapy.

 

[dirtworksequip]

seapea, check out the post here on TBN that is titled "x700 3 point hitch compatibility" it may give you an idea as to what the problem is with matching the rake you have with your tractor.

Sincerely, Dirt