If you have a top n tilt, please read

   / If you have a top n tilt, please read #1  

StrangeRanger

Gold Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2007
Messages
364
Location
Northern VT
Tractor
L3400 HST
Hi,
I've gotten the OK from the "CFO" to purchase a top-n-tilt from Carter & Carter, I've talked w/ C & C, but have some questions and I'm hoping you folks that have a tnt can help me out.

I've done a TON of reading and every time I think I've got a grasp on things, I read something else and confuse myself again. And right now I can't get the search feature to work so I'm posting questions ya'll are probably sick to death of reading. Sorry. But when I do my install I promise to take pics and document the install for other noobs like me out there.

I've got an L3400 w/ an LA463 FEL. I understand my tractor has an open center system and the LA463 has a power beyond port. Still have to measure my top and side links though.

I'm going to purchase from C & C the top link, the side link and the valve/joystick assembly. From talking to them that means I'll have to source my hoses. I under stand I'll need a hose that goes from the FEL power beyond port and then a return line. As well as the hoses that go to the links themselves.

So, my questions:
- Is the power beyond port on the FEL "open"? That is, do I just attach the hose, like no T fitting or anything is required?
- Same type question for the return line. Isn't there a return line already in place for the FEL? Do I need to T this return line into the FEL return line?
- How/where did you route your hoses if you have a similar set up?
- How much are you lovin' your tnt? I maintain my 2200' driveway and can't wait to stop getting off, on, off, on, off, on my tractor.
- If you have some minutes, could you PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE post some pictures of what you've got for a set up.
- Any other pointers or tips or advice you can supply would be greatly appreciated.

Again, I apologize for beating this subject to death, but I can't get the search function to work.

Thank you,
 
   / If you have a top n tilt, please read #2  
StrangeRanger, here is a great thread that will answer many questions.

I'm on the verge of finally getting this done. Some more negotiation in progress with the CFO :)

I plan on doing the following:
- Getting the TnT cylinders from CCM - no hoses or fittings or valves from them.
- Getting the Prince SV open center with power beyond stack valves that MadRef points to in the thread above. If I'm installing remotes, might as well have spare ones. I'm going to get 4. Two for TnT and 2 for who knows what.
-Sourcing hoses and fittings at a local hydraulics shop.

The LA463 loader has a power beyond port. Currently the port is used and the hose from it is hooked up to the hydraulic block. The hydraulic block under the right of the tractor where the hoses to/from the loader are hooked up have three ports: IN, Power Beyond and, RETURN or TANK.

The thread above will help you discover which is which.

You need to hook up the PB port of the loader to the IN port of the remote valve. PB port of any valve simply sends the unused pressurized fluid through to the next valve in the circuit. The last valve in the curcit is the 3PT valve and that is where the PB port of the hydraulic block is taking the fluid to. So what you need to do is to add the new remote in series in between the loader valve and the 3PT valve.

Then the PB port of the new remote valve needs to be hooked up to the PB port of the hydraulic block, to supply the 3PT valve with pressurized fluid.

This leaves the RETURN or TANK of the new remote valve. This is unpressurized fluid that needs to be returned to the tank. MadRef did this by teeing the TANK port of the hydraulic block (this is unpressurized fluid which is why it can be teed). Kubota also sells a part which allows you to route the RETURN hose directly to where you fill hydraulic fluid in. You replace the red plastic cap with that and your used hydraulic fluid from the remote valve gets returned to the tank. This is what I plan on doing so that I don't have to route another hose to the hydraulic block.

Remember - don't tee anything other than the TANK, unpressurized line and you don't have to tee that either.
 
   / If you have a top n tilt, please read #3  
StrangeRanger-

I purchased a harvest return Grand L 3430 last june. It had a standard 723 loader on it. I had the dearler put a single cylinder grapple on the loader. To operate it and the loader with the same joystick, he put on a unit with an electric selector.

I also bought a 72 BB and had a top and tilt kit put on. I will take some picures when I get to my property in a couple of days and send them to you or post them if I can figure out how.

The T-N-T hoses go directly to the power beyond: There's no "t" ing involved. The hoses are routed under the frame and pop up behind the fender where they are connedted to a two spool remote. The remotes mount to a frame which allows them to be moved forward or backward as you need. The hoses are held together with tie wires.

The T-N-T is worth every penny I spent (which were quite a few). I did not get the BB with hydrolic rippers because I don't need them too often, but being able to adjust the pitch of the BB in two directions from the seat is a great time saver. It works perfectly. I lets me level the roads, crown them, and cut curbs where I need. I also use one of the rippers to extract weeds, brush, and small tree roots. Using the T-N-T allows for much better placement of the box/ripper than just the 3PH alone.

Good luck-
 
   / If you have a top n tilt, please read #4  
I just re-read canoetrpr's post and would like to comment on the idea of spare remotes being a good idea. I wish I had known enough to ask for 4 spools. I only have two. I have a 3ph cement mixer which uses a hydraulic cylinder to dump. It is a hassle to have to swap out hoses from the T-N-T valve to use it.
 
   / If you have a top n tilt, please read #5  
mcnitt said:
I wish I had known enough to ask for 4 spools. I only have two. I have a 3ph cement mixer which uses a hydraulic cylinder to dump. It is a hassle to have to swap out hoses from the T-N-T valve to use it.

Why don't you use QD fittings to switch from the TnT toplink cyl to the
concrete mixer toplink cyl and use the same valve? Sounds like you still
need only 2 spools. A third spool would only be necessary if your
implement had 3 different controls needed, as with a boxblade with hyd
rippers. A 4th spool could be used if you operated that BB at the same
time as a front implement like a grapple bkt. But that 4th spool is often
up front, separate from the rear auxiliaries.
 
   / If you have a top n tilt, please read
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Hi Guys,
Thanks for the responses so far, please keep commenting.

Mcnitt: I'd love pics when you can.

I did consider adding extra spools, but did not want to press my luck w/ the CFO. Plus, I figured if down the road I want to add to the stack I can do that, but right now I have no use for more remotes. And I know I'm sure as poop not going to be buying any more "toys" for a while.

I've been doing lots more reading too and have another question. The CCM cylinders have DPOCV's which "lock" the cylinders, but that should not effect the float feature of the 3pth itself right? It simply means the top and side links won't float. Which is fine, cuz I don't have that now anyway.

Thanks guys!
 
   / If you have a top n tilt, please read #7  
dfkrug

I am still fairly new to the use of all things tractors. I didn't think of the QD connectors. Thanks for thinking of it for me!
 
 
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