Need recommendation for B2620 TnT setup

[seapea]

I'd like to get top-n-tilt for my B2620, but am unsure of the best approach. This is a topic I brought up before about 3 years ago when I was considering buying a B7610. I didn't purchase then, but recently purchased a B2620. I'm guessing things have probably changed somewhat on the TnT front since then, so I figure it's worth rehashing.

Here's my situation. My local dealer will charge about $1700 for TnT. Besides the steep price, they use the Rankin/Gearmore kit, which from what I've read is less than desirable because of bleed/drift issues. It seems using the CCM cylinders with check valves is the way to go, but I'm not sure exactly how I should approach this. I'm a tractor novice (the B2620 is my first) and have never worked with hydraulics. Things I want to avoid are:

• Damage to my tractor!
• Spending many hours trying to figure out exactly what parts are needed from various vendors.
• Spending frustrating hours dealing with issues like leaky hydraulics and figuring out how it all goes together.
• Tracking down local welders to build a custom valve mount.
• Tracking down local hydraulics suppliers for miscellaneous parts I need.

If I'm going to do this myself, it seems the best approach would be to buy a complete kit from CCM so I'll know I have everything I need. However, it seems that all the DIY'ers on TBN go with a valve other than the joystick valve CCM sells. Is this a big deal, or am I likely to be satisfied with the CCM valve. Also, what is the estimated cost of a complete kit from CCM?

Another choice is to buy a complete kit from CCM and turn it over to my Kubota dealer to install. I'm not sure if this will end up saving me any money, but I should end up with a better TnT. I could also just buy the CCM cylinders and Prince valve, turn them over to my dealer, and let him figure out all the needed hoses and connectors. I'm guessing he won't take this on, but it is probably worth asking.

Lastly, I saw mention that the CCM side cylinder requires a number of mods in order to get it working well the the B-series 3ph geometry. Is this still the case, or does CCM now make a side cylinder that is better sized for the B-series.

And just so my goals/priorities are clear, although like anyone I'd like to keep costs down, what's most important is that I get a setup that works well, and I get there with a minimal amount of pain. I'll do something the hard way to get better results, but not just to save a few $$$.

Thanks!

 

[art]

I always recommend the factory valve kits for the tractor as they look and normally perform better then those mounted on the fender. They just look so unprofessional in todays world.
The cylinders we use from several suppliers just depends on the tractor applications for length. We have not set any up for the new B-series so I can't be of to much help but normally I would say that with the uses I've seen I've never noticed any amount of bleed off.

 

[seapea]

Are there factory valve kits for the B series? If so, where can I get part numbers and see pictures. For that matter, where can a get a list of options available for the B2620. The manual only lists the rear work light, weights, and engine block heater. There's go to be others, such as the 40amp alternator.

I looked over the hydraulics for my B2620 a bit, trying to get more familiar with how all the existing lines run. I was mostly looking to see if the loader has a power beyond port. I didn't see any sign of it. From what I could see, the 4 hydraulic lines for the loader are all mounted to a valve that mounts directly on the hydraulic pump in the rear. I'm not sure how you are suppose to tap into the hydraulics for TnT. I guess that's just another reason I probably won't be able to take this on myself.

 

[RobertN]

Buy the kit. It may be more expensive, but you won't have as much time taken up with research. FWIW, when I did my own setup, I was still in to it for about $750, 5 years ago. My setup has worked well though; wouldn't have a tractor without it...

 

[seapea]

Buy the kit. It may be more expensive, but you won't have as much time taken up with research.

You mean the Gearmore/Rankin kit? That's probably what I'll end up having to do.