Have I damaged tractor?

[rmg]

On M9540, at 50 hour service interval, refilled transmission using 63.4 qts per owners manual. Well apparently that was too much. Can't even tell where level is on dipstick, it is so high. Can see some of the fluid down in the fill hole. Have learned from this site that some fluid stays trapped in tractor during draining. Have put on another 30 hours since change. Have noticed a feint whining occasionally and seems like a lack of power in higher gears (6 & 7). May be just my imagination. Plan on pumping out/draining out some fluid tomorrow. Have I done any permanent damage?

 

[rbargeron]

Overfilling a gear tractor is not likely to cause any real damage. If the gear housing is so full there is no air space left, pressure could build on warm-up and push some oil out through shaft seals or maybe push the plastic filler cap out. The worst thing I can think of is some oil pushing out past the transmission input shaft seal and wetting the clutch. Normal oil level in a gear case is usually half full or less. There's a lot of air space. As long as the oil is up to where the lower gears are running in it, the uppers get lubricated from the splash. The hydro pump takes its suction down low. Having extra oil in there is not a problem - just expensive. You should drain (or syphon) it to the recommended level so the shaft seals don't drip.

On some L4150/L3750 models they found there was insufficient depth to prevent cavitation of the pump - the factory solution was a higher recommended oil level and a shorter dipstick ! As always, prompt cheerful refund if info is bogus. Take care, Dick B

 

[rmg]

Thanks for reply. How is easiest way to remove the excess fluid? Thought about buying a small hand pump at parts store and seeing if fluid could be drawn out. Afraid of mess that would be made if tried to remove drain plug and reinsert it while in mid drain.

 

[rbargeron]

I agree the drain plug method is hard to control. I would use a length of hose through the filler hole and syphon some out. You can start it flowing with a shop vac - give it a very brief pull so it doesn't mess up your vac - and hold the low end of the hose in an oil bucket. It won't run fast but it will run.

 

[Reg]

Not a popular opinion, but it is mine.
I doubt that "pressure" will build in any cavity that is essentially open to atmospheric (ambient) pressure.

A level might rise, or not, depending on whether the fluid expands more than the container/casing that it is in, but it isn't as if there is a pressure cap under which any pressure is going to build and cause seals to blow out.

 

[Jabroni]

.....Thought about buying a small hand pump at parts store and seeing if fluid could be drawn out. ....

I bought a hypodermic device wat the auto store that does just what you're looking for. I use it to pull gear oil out from my rear axle instead of pulling the cover.

 

[rbargeron]

.....I doubt that "pressure" will build in any cavity that is essentially open to atmospheric (ambient) pressure.......

You're probably right Reg but I think some gearcases are not completely vented. My tractor has a trans dipstick but it has a rubber plug that might hold enough pressure to make a shaft seal leak. Shaft seals located above the normal oil level are not designed to hold back much pressure - so if the level is high it wouldn't take much to get a leak.

Jabroni - I've used my wife's turkey baster sometimes

 

[rmg]

Pumped out two quarts today using an inexpensive hand pump from Walmart. Seems to have helped transmission when driven. (Or was it just the imagination?) Level shows above high mark on dipstick but at least now can tell where the level registers on dipstick. May remove another quart next opportunity. Should the FEL and 3PH be in any particular position when reading dipstick? Should engine be running or shutoff? Should engine be warmed up or cold? In order to properly read the dipstick, should the dipstick be reinserted completely or should it just be reinserted up to its rubber "collar"?

 

[rbargeron]

Usually level is checked with the machine level and at rest with all cylinders retracted, dipstick fully inserted. Cold or warm is ok. The acceptable range is pretty wide - just avoid the extreme high or extreme low condition.