garc
Silver Member
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2008
- Messages
- 114
- Location
- Vancouver Island, BC, Canada.
- Tractor
- 05 Kubota B3030 ROPS
Thanks bandit67 for your post on B3030 ROPS light project which after looking at you attachments leads to this new thread.
First off I must preface all this with the fact that I have no experience with the use of standard rear blades esp. in snow (my box blade/scraper would only jam with snow). I have been researching on the internet, with ag friends and local dealers. The rear blade appears as a deceptively simple device. Who knew that effective implementation could be so complex! I realize that I won't really know until the metal ($$$) hits the ground.
I am including previous posts by my self and bandit67 regarding my rear blade education that began in the above thread.
Q: I have been looking at the Land Pride RB2572 for my B3030 as well and would appreciate any hindsight you can offer now that you have some experience with it on your B3030. i.e. How does it work in snow and how do you set it up for snow? Also, I see that it's 100 lbs. heavier than the RB1572. How does the extra weight affect it's performance?
Reply from bandit67: Regarding the RB2572, I haven't yet moved more than 6" of snow with it. It is rated as too big for our machines, but I wanted the 17" high moldboard as opposed to the 14" moldboard on the 1572 because of snow removal duties. I also like the extra weight back there.
The majority of my use for it will be snow removal, so I figured that the extra beef would be fine as long as I wasn't doing too much dirt work. I have however, put more dirtworking time on the blade than snow clearing time, and haven't yet had an issue with the 3030 being able to handle it for dirt work.
One thing to keep in mind is that you will have to set the 3pt hitch up a little higher so that the blade frame is parallel to the ground to minimize or avoid constant adjustments when angling the blade to either side. Because of the extra 3" of blade height, the frame sits up higher than the 1572, so the lower links need to be higher up when the blade is on the ground. It also impacts ground clearance when raised, but I've got it set now at about 9" of clearance when raised, and with the frame parallel to the ground so that I can swing the blade angle to either side. To do that, I put the top link in the bottom hole which is supposed to be for the Landpride Quick Hitch setup.
The 2572 is much beefier than the 1572, and should be a little better suited to welding more steel so that I can add a hydraulic angling piston at some point. I don't necessarily think that the 1572 would be all that bad, but I don't like when you're moving snow and it falls over the top of the blade so you have to go back and make another pass to get the drive/road completely clean.
Reply from garc: Sounds good so far Ed!
The LP RB2572 is the same weight as my Kubota 7554 box scraper so tractor balance feel would remain the same (I did tip it on it's side once between implement changes while trying to do a quick assist on a berm in my wife's garden and forgetting that I was out of balance).
As always answers lead to more questions. Do you have the LP skid shoes on your blade and are they effective on a gravel driveway?
Regarding tilt with C&C's Top-N-Tilt I am planning to allow freedom of tilt by swapping to a floating rear remote. Kubota offers two double acting RR's (B7304 & B7305 w float) but there is only room for the floating function model in the second position (outside valve).
Next question: I see frequent references to offset and considering that a 6 ft. blade at 30º without offset extends 4" either side of the B3030's tread width, what does all this mean?
Chears, Gar
First off I must preface all this with the fact that I have no experience with the use of standard rear blades esp. in snow (my box blade/scraper would only jam with snow). I have been researching on the internet, with ag friends and local dealers. The rear blade appears as a deceptively simple device. Who knew that effective implementation could be so complex! I realize that I won't really know until the metal ($$$) hits the ground.
I am including previous posts by my self and bandit67 regarding my rear blade education that began in the above thread.
Q: I have been looking at the Land Pride RB2572 for my B3030 as well and would appreciate any hindsight you can offer now that you have some experience with it on your B3030. i.e. How does it work in snow and how do you set it up for snow? Also, I see that it's 100 lbs. heavier than the RB1572. How does the extra weight affect it's performance?
Reply from bandit67: Regarding the RB2572, I haven't yet moved more than 6" of snow with it. It is rated as too big for our machines, but I wanted the 17" high moldboard as opposed to the 14" moldboard on the 1572 because of snow removal duties. I also like the extra weight back there.
The majority of my use for it will be snow removal, so I figured that the extra beef would be fine as long as I wasn't doing too much dirt work. I have however, put more dirtworking time on the blade than snow clearing time, and haven't yet had an issue with the 3030 being able to handle it for dirt work.
One thing to keep in mind is that you will have to set the 3pt hitch up a little higher so that the blade frame is parallel to the ground to minimize or avoid constant adjustments when angling the blade to either side. Because of the extra 3" of blade height, the frame sits up higher than the 1572, so the lower links need to be higher up when the blade is on the ground. It also impacts ground clearance when raised, but I've got it set now at about 9" of clearance when raised, and with the frame parallel to the ground so that I can swing the blade angle to either side. To do that, I put the top link in the bottom hole which is supposed to be for the Landpride Quick Hitch setup.
The 2572 is much beefier than the 1572, and should be a little better suited to welding more steel so that I can add a hydraulic angling piston at some point. I don't necessarily think that the 1572 would be all that bad, but I don't like when you're moving snow and it falls over the top of the blade so you have to go back and make another pass to get the drive/road completely clean.
Reply from garc: Sounds good so far Ed!
The LP RB2572 is the same weight as my Kubota 7554 box scraper so tractor balance feel would remain the same (I did tip it on it's side once between implement changes while trying to do a quick assist on a berm in my wife's garden and forgetting that I was out of balance).
As always answers lead to more questions. Do you have the LP skid shoes on your blade and are they effective on a gravel driveway?
Regarding tilt with C&C's Top-N-Tilt I am planning to allow freedom of tilt by swapping to a floating rear remote. Kubota offers two double acting RR's (B7304 & B7305 w float) but there is only room for the floating function model in the second position (outside valve).
Next question: I see frequent references to offset and considering that a 6 ft. blade at 30º without offset extends 4" either side of the B3030's tread width, what does all this mean?
Chears, Gar
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