B2620 Questions

[Mzimmy]

Greetings all...

I have lurked for a few months soaking up as much information as possible. I'm a satisfied owner of a 1982 B7100 who just pulled the trigger on a much anticipated B2620 with a BH65 and FEL...

Dealer treated me very well (I think) giving me loaded R4's and a Woods toothbar plus $4500 trade-in on my beloved B7100...

The 2620 is being delivered on Wednesday...I stopped by and checked out the welds based on some of the other threads in this forum and gave them a down payment and picked up a set of owner manuals...My discomfort comes from the fact that due to just starting a brand-new job, I will be unable to be at home when the tractor is delivered. I was hoping to get a lesson or two with regard to attaching and de-attaching...The dealer told me to read the manual (which seems to be pretty detailed) and give it a try, and let him know if I have any questions....

OK, I will give it a try, but I also figured I'd post some queries here as well...

Question #1 - I am planning on storing in the garage since I have an open bay. Just over 19 feet. Seems to be long enough, but when the BH65 is mounted on the tractor, do I need to worry about the BH boom bleeding down to the point that the bucket drops? I think I have 1-2 extra feet, and I'd rather not have a huge dent on the inside fo the aluminium garage doors from the boom bleeding down. I know there are locks but am unsure if one would preclude this from happening?

Question #2 - I am a little nervous about the FEL and BH detachment. I have a small horse barn where the 7100 lived, but it has a dirt/sawdust floor that is a bit spongy. I'm thinking I may store the BH in here when I am using the 3-point bush hog, but am worried it my settle over time....Any tips? lessons learned?

Thanks for the help...

Regards,

 

[ChuckinNH]

The locking pins on the backhoe will keep the boom from lowering. The bucket can pivot downward so that the teeth are pointing towards the floor, but that takes very little extra room. I would be more concerned with where you leave the loader when it is detached, and suggest at least a piece of plywood that is pretty level to leave it on. The backhoe is self leveling using the stabilizer arms so as long as one can get close enough to hook up the hoses, it can be aligned with the tractor. It might require that you unhook the hoses once this is done, and reposition the tractor ( tractor / backhoe alignment is everything when attaching the hoe) but you don't have to worry that it can't be done.

 

[Mzimmy]

Very good information. Thank you very much Chuck...
I'll be storing the FEL in the garage on concrete in the garage when not attached.
It makes sense then to store the BH on the barn dirt floor then since the stabilizers can be used to compensate for any settling...makes sense...

How about attaching and detaching? All the reps and dealers rave that these attachments can be pulled off and put on with a minimum of effort...seems a little bit too good to be true.
Anyone else do it on their own with no guidance? Any tips/tricks...make-sure-ya-don'ts?

I have this recurring nightmare of the sound of grinding metal and a BH slowly tipping over onto the ground....

Regards,

 

[Evil the Weasel]

The FEL is very easy to install and remove. Even I can do it!

 

[ChuckinNH]

The backhoe attaches, and detaches very much like the one on my BX did. If you remember that you are rotating the backhoe into position around the bottom two mounting pins, things will go well. The backhoe is positioned so that it rests in the two lower mounting pins, and then rotated into positon using the boom / dipper stick. It is removed in reverse fashion. Take the weight off the top location pins, remove them tip the hoe back clear of the top pins, and then use the stabilizers to lift the hoe off the bottom two pins. Remove hoses, etc. and drive away. I may have missed some minor thing, but that is about the gist of it. The key to mounting is to have the tractor lined up as perfectly as possible with the bottom two pins. It pays to spend a bit of extra time with this since it makes everything go so smoothly.

Now if I keep talking about it, I'm going to be wanting one myself!

 

[BrierPatch]

It really is really easy to take the FEL and BH on and off. Sometimes it takes a little more fiddeling/adjusting to get the pins lined up. I think it makes a difference on how well the dealer installs the subframe for the BH so that both sides of the holes line up on the same center line to put the pins in. One of things to watch for is the manual says to raise the rear tires slightly to remove pressure off the top pins. It doesn't say to lower the wheels back down after you remove the pins. So when you start to lower the BH away from the tractor it will drop the rear of the tractor once it clears the pin locating guides. I prefer to let the wheels down or pressure off, and let the BH subframe hold the BH up and let it rotate on the lower pins and then use the stabilizers to just lift the lower pins up. Another thing to remember is not to use the 3pt lift lever while the BH is on. It should have a lock on it to hold it in the lower position. The hoses are not very long to reach the BH, so you may want to put some concrete blocks or wood chocks (concrete lasts longer) to support the frame of the BH when you store it. You said you had a sawdust/dirt floor and it might settle low enough that the hoses won't reach. I had mine on concrete and with the BH frame on the ground it seemed like a little bit of a stretch to get the hoses connected, so I started putting a couple of blocks under it so the hoses would reach easier. If yours does settle too far you could always lift it back up with the loader and put blocks under it then as well.

It really isn't that hard it just takes some patience to start with and then once you see how it works it just takes practice. I have had my BH on and off about 7-8 times and I have only had my tractor about 6 mo.

 

[628pm]

I had my b2620 with the fel and backhoe (bh65) for several months. On this site there are several threads about making a dolly for the backhoe to rest on. I made one for mine, be sure and purchase wheels that will support the weight. I bought wheels first at TSC, then bought the heavier ones at Lowes that will do the job I need. I think I spend the most time on taking the 3 point arms off when installing the backhoe, then putting them back on when wanting to use the bushhog. I am changing my 3 pt stabilizers to the pin type instead of the screw adjustable type that came with the tractor. This way it will be easier to remove the 3 pt arms.

 

[PUSHINDIRT]

You should have no problem with the backhoe, just make sure you have something to set it on. The hoe on my old BX is almost identical to what you have. The only problem I encountered was I took it off, let it sit about 2 weeks, and the cylinders leaked down. It probably took a few extra minutes to put it back on, because the hydraulic lines were a little short (at least on the bx24). Like other members I would recommend a dolly to set it on, this way you can move it when the cylinders leak down, and it keeps it off the ground.

 

[DonnieP]

Check these out.
YouTube - Removing the Kubota BX24 backhoe
YouTube - Attaching the backhoe on the Kubota BX24

 

[Mzimmy]

Nice and warm this weekend....

So I figured I'd try to remove my BH65 Backhoe...What a bugger...

I was able to get the left pin out, but was simply unable to get the right. I juked around with trying to get the appropriate amount of pressure pressing down on the backhoe bucket to take the tension off of the pins so as to be able to yank 'em....No Dice....

No matter how I positioned the bucket, the pins literally seem TIGHT...I'm wondering if the paint on the inside of the mounting holes may need to be ground out. I lubed, yanked and cajoled with no joy. At times it seemed like the pins could reluctantly be spun back and forth, but were still very/very tight...

I'm tempted to drive them out then use a dremel sander on the inside of the mount holes...Good idea? Bad?....