Gravel Driveway

   / Gravel Driveway #11  
I have a six foot Woods with gauge wheels. I like it, but wish the wheels were set in from the ends a bit. When I use it angled, the wheels stick out further than the tines and prevent me from getting up close to walls, trees, etc.

Recently saw a Befco rake at a local JD dealer and it looked just about perfect. Solid, quality materials, and wheels in the right location. Too bad I already have one. /w3tcompact/icons/mad.gif

Pete
 
   / Gravel Driveway #12  
<font color=blue>I have never understood how a rake (admit that I have never tried one) can do anything but make a drive surface look good </font color=blue>

Exactly! So when idiot tourists come racing up the road we can get some enjoyment out of it! /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Actually, when I read the original post I was thinking of my own gravel driveway, which is four inches of gravel over a very level bed. For those conditions, all I need is to rearrange it now and then to prevent sprawl.

Pete
 
   / Gravel Driveway #13  
Here's what I used before those nice people came and blacktopped it. Just got it out of mothballs about a week ago to refurb the volleyball court. My driveway is about 300' long, and most of it stayed in place pretty well. The one portion has a slope, and it required maintenance.

The original driveway was built 13 years ago. The excavator hogged it out to a depth of about 8-10" and laid about a 6" depth of 3" ballast with finer material mixed in. Then it was topped with 2A Modified (a mixture of anything that goes through a 3/4" screen at the quarry). Had it not been for dust in the Summer and raking the stones back into the driveway when the snow went away in the Spring, I could have lived with it............chim
 

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   / Gravel Driveway #14  
Use a grader box or box scraper or what ever you want to call it.

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://carverequipment.com/images/boxblade.jpg>http://carverequipment.com/images/boxblade.jpg</A>

Rover
 
   / Gravel Driveway #15  
I used the box scraper to remove gravel then pick it up with the FEL. I then dump it in small piles and back over them with the box blade to somewhat smooth it out. I found that scraping the FEL backwards will smooth it out a little better and you have better visibility. As mention on other post the box blade is jack of all and master of none.

Dave
 
   / Gravel Driveway #16  
I bought a set of hay forks at a local welding shop here and they had a really neat scraper they sold for just this purpose. I will try to stop by and get a picture of one sometime. It was about 6' X 6' and had two cross braces diagonally across the center. Each cross brace had a bolt on cutting blade. The sides of the thing were wide skids, also with bolt on replaceable skids. The guy who sold me my forks said his 12 year old can run the thing and grade his road perfect every time. I think that the key to the think is the skids. Keeping the cutting blades from bouncing with the tractor really seems to be the hard part of grading with a short wheelbase tractor. (Ever notice how long the wheelbase is on a road grader?). I have attached a rough sketch (I know it is really rough) of the layout of the thing. I hope to stop and get a picture soon.
 

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   / Gravel Driveway #17  
Does'nt back dragging the FEL tear the heck out of the blade?--on gravel--over and over?
I use my boxblade, first I rip, then I dig in forward and then I spread what I dug and ripped in reverse with the box set for spreading and then I use my Furest tine harrow to smooth it up. I think that stick drawing device sounds like an excellent invention. J
 
   / Gravel Driveway #18  
It seems that most people who haven't used a landscape rake, and therefore can't imagine how effective they can be, think of them as a "surface scratcher", and indeed that is what they look like. If you use them on hard-packed, well traveled and rutted drives on a hot dry day, that is what they will do. However, if you wet the surface (or wait until mother nature does it for you), then the rake can dig in as deeply as you wish (or deeper/w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif). That is when the gauge wheels would come in handy. You can easily dig down below the level of the ruts with a rake if the ground is damp.

I, too have an 800 foot driveway that is mostly uphill (or is that downhill/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif). Every 3 years or so I get 60 tons of crusher run (or 2a modified). After that is tailgate spread by the driver, I box blade the gravel without the rippers to spread evenly and crown the road.

On the years when I don't get more gravel, I use the rake. First I cut deeply on an early spring day (read wet/damp gravel) with the rake set perpendicular to direction of travel. When the entire road is all stirred up, down to about 6 inches, I angle the rake AND slope it a bit for the crown. I make a pass down the center (with only about 3/4 of the rake in contact due to the crown/slope). At the end of that pass, I turn around and stay on the center, but the return pass rakes on the other side of the crown. On each pass downhill, I stay on one side, moving GRADUALLY to the edge with multiple overlapping passes. On each pass uphill, I do the same, but on the other side of the road. Finally, I roll it with a 1600# roller. Rolling works best IN a moderate rain/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif. Finally I continue to drive with vehicles on the crown and edges for a few days/weeks. Only takes 6 hours, going slow with the rake, or about 10 hours with the box blade (extra time for spreading new gravel) Good luck with your method, and let us know how you made out.
 
   / Gravel Driveway #19  
<font color=blue>Does'nt back dragging the FEL tear the heck out of the blade?--on gravel--over and over?</font color=blue>

Yes it probably would over time. I'm tilting the bucket and using only the front part of the bucket that has the extra metal band. I use this method rather then readjusting the box blade. I have the blade tilled forward so it digs in pretty quick to gather up the old driveway that I'm removing altogether and expanding a parking area. When using the box blade backwards it seems to ride over the gravel because of the forward tilt. I like the results better when backing up and using the FEL in float to smooth out the gravel that was just moved.

Dave
 
   / Gravel Driveway #20  
I conncur with all your statements. Just rolling a windrow back and forth will even out and fill in all the low spots. Just need enough power/traction to be able to do it properly.
Egon
 
 
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