Leak through freeze plug block heater

[Colby Forest]

Just bought a M5040HDC . Only been able to use it twice in the past week and a half because of all the rain, but I digress. I already have a problem! The dealer installed a freeze plug block heater for me, but it's dripping anti-freeze . Not enough sealant? Not tight enough? I'd rather fix it myself so I don't have to haul it back over the narrow, hilly, bumpy 60-mile round trip. Can anyone help? Can I fix it without having to taking the whole heater out and draining it?

 

[KennyV]

take a close look... if it is the thread in type, it could be loose or no sealer... if it is the expanding swedge type it could need a little tightening. KennyV.

 

[Colby Forest]

I can't tell from looking at the tractor if it's threaded or not. So, if anyone with an M50-, 60- or 7040 (with cab) could tell me if the freeze plug hole closest to the cab is threaded or not, I would GREATLY appreciate it. On the first white page of the manual (page 1 of Servicing of Tractor), there is an illustration "Tractor identification plate" which shows that freeze plug (right over the dipstick) with a hexagon in the center, which makes me think it's threaded, where the other freeze plugs are shown as just circles.

I'd like to understand what I'm doing before I do it. Don't want to do the wrong thing and end up with antifreeze all over the ground or if the dealer ends up fixing it, I want to be able to tell if it was done right (since it wasn't in the first place).

 

[DieselPower]

Is there a small bolt head in the center of the block heater? If there is then it's the kind that is drawn into the block. Operates kind of like a buterfly nut. If it does then I would try to tighten it a little more.

 

[Colby Forest]

So, it stopped raining continuously, been busy between showers...

Turns out the block heater is a threaded type as is the hole on the M5040. Saw the kit at the dealer.

Took photos of leaking block heater to dealer. He said OK to try to tighten it myself, wouldn't void warranty. So I tried with about 30 ft-lbs. It turned about 1 degree and still leaks. A bit leary about using more. Maybe I should?

I'm not sure, but it feels like it might be cross-threaded. Hard to tell as there is what is apparently a foamy/putty-ish type Teflon sealant around where bushing meets block. And it feels spongy.

A couple pics:

Message - TractorByNet.com Photo Gallery

Message - TractorByNet.com Photo Gallery

Sorry about the round about way to the photos, it seems to be the only way I can get them in.

 

[Jerry/MT]

So, it stopped raining continuously, been busy between showers...

Turns out the block heater is a threaded type as is the hole on the M5040. Saw the kit at the dealer.

Took photos of leaking block heater to dealer. He said OK to try to tighten it myself, wouldn't void warranty. So I tried with about 30 ft-lbs. It turned about 1 degree and still leaks. A bit leary about using more. Maybe I should?

I'm not sure, but it feels like it might be cross-threaded. Hard to tell as there is what is apparently a foamy/putty-ish type Teflon sealant around where bushing meets block. And it feels spongy.

A couple pics:

Message - TractorByNet.com Photo Gallery

Message - TractorByNet.com Photo Gallery

Sorry about the round about way to the photos, it seems to be the only way I can get them in.

The only way you're gonna' know if it's cross threaded is to take it out and see. If the dealer installed it you have two choices; take it back to him or do it yourself. It's probably pipe thread so make sure that you have the correct die and tap if you take it out.

 

[KennyV]

The block heater is made of brass, the block is cast iron. If it was cross threaded the heater body threads will be ruined the harder cast iron threads will be fine. Don't try to repair the heater threads if they look bad. Take the heater back to the dealer and exchange it for a new one. Put some pipe dope on and screw it in you can do this without having to haul your tractor.
If when you remove it the threads look good... I would then suspect the seal between the element and the brass housing on the heater... still exchange it for a new one.
In either case you should not need to tap or chase the threads in the cast iron. Brass is so soft it will not harm the threads in the block. KennyV.

 

[radioman]

hmm- I wonder if that is the right plug ? If it feels spongy- would it be because its too long ? I would take it right out, and check threads on both male/female ends. compare the length just to be sure its ok.

 

[Ace3]

I had the same problem on my B3030. The dealer service manager came out to fix it. All he did was to screw the block heater out, put the original plug back in to keep the coolent from coming out. Keep the radiator cap on. He then put teflon tape on the heater threads, removed the temporary plug, and threaded the heater back in. It took him all of 10 minutes and only about a cup of coolent was lost. So far, no leaks.

 

[Jerry/MT]

The block heater is made of brass, the block is cast iron. If it was cross threaded the heater body threads will be ruined the harder cast iron threads will be fine. Don't try to repair the heater threads if they look bad. Take the heater back to the dealer and exchange it for a new one. Put some pipe dope on and screw it in you can do this without having to haul your tractor.
If when you remove it the threads look good... I would then suspect the seal between the element and the brass housing on the heater... still exchange it for a new one.
In either case you should not need to tap or chase the threads in the cast iron. Brass is so soft it will not harm the threads in the block. KennyV.

For all anybody knows, the block side threads could have been damaged during manufacture. I'd still want to be ready to chase the block threads.