Tires Compact Tractor Tires

[WVBill]

Well, I went to California and returned safely with my 1974 B6100D 4WD in tow. It is in real good shape ovrall - fully functional. But since my Father-in-law kept it outside in Southern California, anything rubber (hydraulic hoses and tires) and exposed to the sun is in pretty sad condition.

The tires are Ag Tires (R1, I guess?) are well on their way to dry rot so I'll need to be replacing them. Also, they (all four) are filled with water only so I'd need to be doing something about them before winter anyway.

The tractor has a FEL, a box scraper and a rototiller. I'll be using it around my 3.5 acres for general landscaping and other tractor duties and plan to add a light duty 4 or 5 foot rotary cutter to mow the grass.

So here are my tire questions:

Since they are filled with water only, what is your best guess about the interior condition of the rims? I see only minor rust on the outside near the tire bead. Do you think I'll need to replace the rims?

When I replace the tires, what "style" do you recommend? R1 Ag tires or R4 multipurpose? Will this choice drive whether or not I need new rims too?

Here's a real "newbie" question - When you get new tires for a tractor, does the dealer expect you to bring the tractor to them or is it normal for them to come out and install them. I'm planning to sell the trailer I bought to bring the tractor home on and after that will not have an easy way to get the tractor to a dealer.

One final question (for now), what do tires for a compact tractor cost [ballpark]?

Thanks

 

[DVerbarg]

WVBill,

Usually if there is water involved there are tubes. If it was my tractor I would probably take the tires off myself (or have a dealer dismount them), inspect the rims, and make a decision regarding the life left in the rims. If it is only surface rust I would take the time to sand the rust, prime and paint to prevent further oxidation.

Not familiar with the tires for that Kubota but most tires with the same overall size have different size rims for the different types (R1 uses a different rim than the R4). If you have to replace the rims I would personally go with the R4s as I like to use the tractor around the yard and don't want the R1s leaving their marks.

It is usually cheaper to bring the tractor to the tire dealer than to have the dealer come to you but each dealer is different.

As to the cost, I'm not qualified to answer that since it has been years since I looked and tire costs and don't know the tire size you have.

Hope this helps!

DavidV

 

[tbarber55]

I just got a price for 29X12x15 turf tires $140.00 each.
Tom

 

[Bird]

I agree with David's answer about the rims; get the tires off and then look at them to see whether they need replacing, and of course, if you change to R4s, you'll probably have to have different rims. In my area, we have dealers who will come to you to do the tire work, but there's a charge for that service. If you have a safe way to block the tractor up, remove the wheels, and take them to the dealer, you might save a few bucks, but be careful.

Bird

 

[MarkV]

WVBill,

Glad to see you got your tractor and the long haul went well. Sounds like you have gotten the skinny on tires and rims. I was wondering if you see finish mowing for the tractor. If not, the R1's may be your best choice. They will work better in mud and tend to offer better traction. I have R4's which have worked well for me and will hold more ballast. That can be a big plus with our little tractors. Guess it depends on your land and use.

Another thought, if you have to buy new tires, you might look into radials. From what others have said on the forum, they offer a better ride and traction.

Have fun, be safe and tell the wife it is work your doing with that new tractor.

 

[Kelvin]

WVBill,

Congratulations on your successful cross-country trip. I first made the trip "solo" as a 17 year-old Air Force enlistee enroute to my first assignment in Sacramento. That was fun. I've since accomplished the feat about 4 more times and dread the thought of it, especially towing a heavy trailer.

If you don't already have an Operator's Manual you need to go ahead and get one. I bought a Kubota combination B5100D/E, B6100D/E and B7100D Operator's Manual in December '97 for $15 plus tax. Part #KU 66701-62901. That is a reasonably cheap price that provides a lot of basic information that you'll need.

Based upon the manual, you have a choice of AG (R-1) or Turf tires.

For Ag tires you need 6-12 on the front and 7-16 tires on the rear (12" and 16" rims).

For Turf tires you need 20.5x8.00-10 on the front and 27x8.50-15 on the rear (10" and 15" rims). Since the 20.5x8.00-10 is no longer made in a tractor turf tire, I have found the 21.0x8.00-10 to be an acceptable substitute (retail about $80 each). The 20.5x8.00-10 is made as golf cart tires and trailer tires (like used on pop-up campers) even though they may not have the desired tread that you'd like (retail about $40-$50 each).

I have a set of turf and Ag tires & rims for my B7100. I recently mounted the tractor on automotive jack stands and took all 8 rims and had them sand blasted and repainted (I didn't have the time or equipment so I paid someone $250 to do it). The Ag tires had a some sort of slippery fliud in them; 2 of the 4 Ag rims had tubes. It seems that the 2 rims with tubes were rusted worse than the rims without tubes.

R-4 Tires: There is not a published recommended tire size. You'll have to do some calculating to determine the correct rim and tire size that would match your tractor's 4wd gearing.

Recommendation: Remove the Ag tires and fluid. Perform maintenance as required to stop rim rust. I wouldn't let a little tire rot bother me. Based upon the cost of new tires, I would re-install the old tires and use them while you are getting to know your new tractor. Then let your experience dictate whether you to with new Ag tires or invest in a complete set of R-4 or Turf tires & rims (probably close to $1000 for a complete set new). Used ones are hard to find.

Happy Tractoring!
Kelvin

 

[WVBill]

Thanks, David, Bird and Kelvin.

Kelvin - I made my fist coast-to-coast trip also solo - California to Pensacola for Navy flight training in the late 60s and have done it about five times since then. This last time with my wife to keep me company and share driving - but it's still a grueling ("will we EVER get through Oklahoma?") drive.

My Father-in-law gave me the original Operator's manual and parts manual. I figured it didn't mention R4's because they didn't exist back in the mid 70's (?).

He said that there were no tubes in the tires, but I'm not sure he isn't mistaken. They seem to be holding the air/water just fine (although I have not had a chance to use the tractor much yet).

A couple of you have said to remove the tires from the rims like it's no big deal. Please excuse my newbie-ness but I could understand taking the tires (and rims) off the tractor being no big deal but how do you easily remove and re-install the tires to the rims - arent they just like automotive tires and you need one of those bead-breaking machines?

If it is a DIY thing, I could do as you suggest, Kelvin. Clreaning up the rims and replacing (or adding) the tubes and then see if I can live with the Ag tires. $1,000 for R4's is more than I can aford and I'm not sure that turf tires will have the traction I want.

I'm pretty sure from reading this board that I want to load the tires with water & non-toxic anti-freeze mix - since I have and will be using the loader. Did I read somewhere that this would be a DIY job with some kind of an adapter and pump or is loading tires a job only for the dealer/pro?

Thanks again for all of your responses

Bill

 

[DVerbarg]

WVBill,

You asked about removing the tires from the rims. It is not an easy task and I have not done this in years but it can be a DIY job. If it were my tires I would call around to the dealers and find out what they would charge for removing the tires and if reasonable would have them do the job. While at their shop I would inspect the rims and make the decision about whether to fix/repair/repaint the rims before having them mount the new tires. Most of the country shops will tend to be more sympathetic toward this approach of dismounting waiting two weeks and then remounting. Some big-time shops want to do the dismount/remount at the same time and take your money. If you cannot find someone willing to do this then it can be another reason to DIY.

I have no experience with loading tires with the non-toxic antifreeze/water mixture but am considering some sort of ballast for my TC40D and would like to know if it is a DIY job (if so what tools are required) or if it is best left to a dealer.

David V

 

[Bird]

I'm not sure where to find it in the archives, but doing it yourself liquid ballast has been discussed at length in the past. Basically, what it amounts to is parking the tractor with the valve stem at the top, jack it up and block it to remove the weight from the tire, remove the valve core, pump in the antifreeze first, and then add water. A lot of farm and tractor stores have the adapter to use on your garden hose to add the water. When it gets to the level that it runs back out the valve stem, you'll be at about the 75% level which is what you want. If you've never done it, or seen it done, and your local tire shop's prices are reasonable, you might want to just let them do it.

Bird

 

[Thomas]

By the sounds your trip to CA was well worth it.
The area where I live most of the tractor owners take there tire off,also our Goodyear Tire Store has been able to get what ever tire the tactor customer wishes,so i heard but never check into it.

Maybe a good tire dealer can shine up the rust spots,but as far as purchasing new rims if need be I would go thru a Kubota dearler for the right fit.

When the time comes I'm going to buy the R4 tires,for I heard thru this board also seen the tire just how good they are.

It true,when one starts to replace rubber & hoses etc... they become better in understanding there tractor,also the dearlers labor cost will go way down. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Congratulation on your B6100D,and I do have a little information if you should need it sometime.

Stay safe and /w3tcompact/icons/cool.gif

Thomas..NH