Ok to weld work light mount to ROPS?

[TripleR]

Originally Posted by radioman

OH DARN IT! I love the trailer stake approach too! Last year I used square U bolts and bolted a peice of angle iron from bed frame to the rops. I beleive both approches is equally good. Better then welding and then get flamed about it from naysayers.

I have watched my son weld some things I would swear couldn't be welded from really light stuff to very heavy duty applications. As in so many things, skill will determine what can be done and what can't. I don't worry about what people think of what I should or shouldn't do on something like this.

[rbargeron]

Weld away and don't lose any sleep. The hamsters of doom will always be the hamsters of doom. Some truck frames, like some bed rails, have properties that can be affected by welding. But the Kubota roll bars I've seen are all dead soft, malleable, low-carbon, non-strain-hardening steel that can be drilled, welded, and generally tied in a knot and keep their properties. You can tell by (1) running a hack saw blade or file on them, or (2) hitting it with a hammer and notice how low a ring tone it makes. If you drill or cut too much away, it will be weaker in that spot (common sense) but a worklight bracket won't make an identifiable difference - except to some imaginary future lawyer who likely will never exist.

[bpattie]

Originally Posted by rbargeron

Weld away and don't lose any sleep. The hamsters of doom will always be the hamsters of doom. Some truck frames, like some bed rails, have properties that can be affected by welding. But the Kubota roll bars I've seen are all dead soft, malleable, low-carbon, non-strain-hardening steel that can be drilled, welded, and generally tied in a knot and keep their properties. You can tell by (1) running a hack saw blade or file on them, or (2) hitting it with a hammer and notice how low a ring tone it makes. If you drill or cut too much away, it will be weaker in that spot (common sense) but a worklight bracket won't make an identifiable difference - except to some imaginary future lawyer who likely will never exist.

I would tend to agree, but the advantage of a bracket is still there. It can be removed or reused without leaving a mark.

[redharley]

Hate to tell you guy's this but if you put a u bolt or a trailer stake pocket on you ROPS you just modified it from factory spec's There is a ton of loop hole's if you want to get right down to it. WELD the SUCKER

[Firefighter Kubota]

Weld it! Although I mounted my rear lights to the "hinge" portion of the ROPS, drilled...

They get knocked around by branches occasionally, nut the just pivot at the bolt, and I twist them back out later...

[firefighter jim]

Originally Posted by jambx

I wouldnt modify the ROPS in any way shape form if nothing else the liability if you ever go sell the tractor.

I used Trailer Stake Pocket clamps from TSC $3.99ea -its clean easy and removable!

Good Idea!!

[Charlesaf3]

THey make a clamp for mounting lights and things on the rops - like the stake pockets, but better. Billyworx. Messicks sells them, I've got them on both tractors.

A lot easier, cleaner, and changeable.

[DELInstallations]

Originally Posted by jambx

I wouldnt modify the ROPS in any way shape form if nothing else the liability if you ever go sell the tractor.

I used Trailer Stake Pocket clamps from TSC $3.99ea -its clean easy and removable!

Did TSC have the flat plates or fabricated?

Which one did you hit? The one in Winsted/New Hartford seems to have less stuff.

[jambx]

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THey make a clamp for mounting lights and things on the rops - like the stake pockets, but better. Billyworx. Messicks sells them, I've got them on both tractors.

A lot easier, cleaner, and changeable.

True - and not pitching pennies I did looked at these as well but there was something satisfying to me to use a $3.99 part that in my opinion looked "almost" as good as a part 10x the cost.

Originally Posted by DELInstallations

Did TSC have the flat plates or fabricated?

Which one did you hit? The one in Winsted/New Hartford seems to have less stuff.

Actually I bought them at a TSC in Vermont (during a weekend get-a-way) of course the gf thought I was nuts when I went wide eyed as I almost passed the store and turned into the parking lot. I dont get up to the CT TCS ones much since they are really out of the way for me.

As for the flat brackets - good question - I found some scrap flat (1/8 inch) aluminum stock I have left over from Home Depot and fabd my own. I prefer the bolt on design over weld (never been a fan to "radically" alter anything) and have been very happy with the way they bolted on.

I recenlty posted here is a thread I did a few weeks ago on how I did the install.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/k...t-project.html

[55c]

weld it. unbolt it and turn it to get it in flat position if you need to.

go ahead and knock some 3/8" holes in it to to drop the wires thru too, drill them close to the center of a side, but not on the seam. just drill a hole at the bottom to let whatever water gets in back out.

I read all the warnings about welding and drilling the ROPS. I've studied and practiced welding. I've built a few stock car rollcages, and a few have been field tested with no failures. I've examined a bunch more that others have built and "tested". from everything I've seen, read, and wrecked, I just don't see how an inch or two of weld on a ROPS, even poor quality, burnt thru weld, is going to make the ROPS fold when you roll the tractor.