Removing fel - installing snowblower

[skywaterbanjo]

I have been plowing my driveway for the past 2 winters with the fel and a 5' rear blade on a B7800. It is taking me way too long with this setup. My driveway is dirt/gravel and about 600' long, steep in spots. I'm frustrated that I scrape up so much of the driveway until it freezes. We had an 18" snowfall on Monday and I spent 7 hours yesterday trying to get it clean without destroying the driveway itself.
I'm considering a B2782 snowblower.
I have several questions for this great forum:
1) How critical is the hydraulic chute deflector?
2) Is the chute rotator also available hydraulically or do you all just use the manual crank?
3) Does anyone have any photos of the process to remove the fel and install the blower?
4) How long does it take to remove the fel and install the blower? Is it a pretty straightforward process?
5) What should I expect to pay for this setup?

I almost went out yesterday and upgraded the B7800 for a heavier machine but I really like the size/maneuverablity of the my tractor.

I have had a hard time finding a source for the snowblower and the hydraulic chute accessories. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Mark in Colorado
'08 B7800

 

[ChuckinNH]

Mark, Kubota is the only reasonably priced source for a front mounted snowblower for your B7800. Taking the loader off only takes a few minutes, and there is no physical work involved, and no tools. You lower the stands that are pinned to the loader arms, lower the bucket with some forward curl, and then roll the bucket back just a bit to relieve the pressure on the two pins in your loader towers. You can reach forward from the seat, and remove those pins. Once the pins are out, you continue to roll the bucket back until the loader arms clear the mounts. You then back up a few inches, shut down, relieve the pressure in the hydraulic hoses by moving the joystick around a bit, and then disconnect the hoses, and back away. It takes me almost as long to type it as it does to do it.

The B7800 uses a longer, and heavier subframe than the B2630, B3030, and the new B3200, and I would think it would take a floor jack to get it mounted alone. Once that is pinned in place under the tractor, the blower mounts easily, and is a quick disconnect setup. The good news is that the loader can be used if needed with the subframe still mounted though care has to be taken with ground clearance. Folks that have this set up will chime in hopefully, but this will give you an idea what to expect. I would expect that you are looking at $4500 to $5000 or so depending on options for the complete setup. Something like a Blizzard rear mounted blower is about half that price for your tractor.

 

[Ductape]

The 7800 is a great tractor, definitely keep it. The B2782 is what i'd describe as a 'commercial duty' blower. It's construction is much heavier than the smaller blowers Kubota uses on the smaller Bs and BXs. I do a fair amount of snowblowing, including several of my neighbors' driveways, and i've never so much as broken a shear bolt. If your wallet allows, I strongly recommend the hydraulic chute deflector (BL2666) and the hydraulic chute rotation (B2784). Kubota offers electric options as well, but in my opinion... hydraulic is forever, with no ice or freezing concerns. There have been plenty of members who've made their own hydraulic and electric chute controls, so it might be worthwhile to spend a couple hours reading here. Removing the loader takes less than five minutes. Installing both my subframe and blower probably takes fifteen minutes. Once my blower is installed for the season, i find no need for the loader till spring, so there is no switching back and forth for me. I have to give Kubota credit...... their attachments are well thought out, and quality built.

 

[rbargeron]

.....I'm considering a B2782 snowblower.
I have several questions for this great forum:
1) How critical is the hydraulic chute deflector?
2) Is the chute rotator also available hydraulically or do you all just use the manual crank?
3) Does anyone have any photos of the process to remove the fel and install the blower?
4) How long does it take to remove the fel and install the blower? Is it a pretty straightforward process?
5) What should I expect to pay for this setup?

1) chute deflector is much less important than the rotator - unless your place has limited places to put the snow..
2) rotators can be manual, hydraulic, or electric
3) mounting/dismounting front attachments is a slightly different process for each tractor model - but once you've done it a few times its very straight forward. A flat parking surface makes it easier.
4) the first time will seem long - but you'll get quicker with practice. The loader takes longer than the blower. Figure 15-30 minutes maybe.
5) others will be more familiar with prices for this size setup.

Just changed my machine over for winter - doors and windows back on the cab, tire chains on, loader off, snowblower mounted. I have a 6-foot front-mount Erskine blower that drives from the rear pto. I've re-mounted the loader valve in the cab and added quick-connectors so it operates either FEL or the snowblower.

 

[Tig]

Hydraulic chute deflector is probably less important than rotation for most. I use both and I find it important because we have driving wind most of the time and my lane changes direction. I have to throw the snow where mother nature wants me to. If I can, I throw it high and let the wind carry it away so it does not contribute to the drifting when the wind changes direction. I also like to throw it towards the natural drainage so it does not haunt me during a thaw. But most of all I try to keep it out of my face.
In several places I have to be considerate of the neighbours. In particular the boys home has a smoking area just off the end of my lane. I'd hate to make the cold smoke break any worse by causing a blizzard. On that stretch I throw the snow straight down in front of me to carry it past them. Once I'm clear I throw as far as I can.

 

[ChuckinNH]

In this picture, you can see the difference in the sub frame on the B7800. It is pretty heavy, and quite different than the one on the B3030 in the other picture.

 

[skywaterbanjo]

Great information.

So, I'm finding that there is about a 4 week backlog in trying to get a 2782. Still looking.

Do you normally remove the subframe at the end of the season? All the dealers are saying that is the hardest part of the install.

My dealer wants $6000 for the blower installed, no hyd chute deflector or rotator. Seems high to me. Says he won't have one until mid-late January.

Has anyone done the whole install from the individual components?

 

[Ductape]

I have a 3030, not a 7800........ but, yes i do remove the quick hitch (subframe) at the end of winter. It takes a few minutes (literally) to remove. Your dealers price sounds high to me...... shopping around will tell you for sure. If you have a reasonable ability to turn a few wrenches, there is no reason you shouldn't be able to do the install yourself and save on the labor charges. Installation is very straightforward. It certainly wouldn't surprise me that there would be a back log of orders for the blower. In this economy, i can't imagine dealers wanting to sit on a large inventory hoping they'll sell. Couldn't blame them for ordering blowers (and other attachments) as the customers place orders with them.

 

[JTPass]

Sky...,
I recently purchased and had installed a 63" Kubota 2782A, hydraulic chute rotate, electric chute deflect and subframe/hitch for $5900 on a B3200 which I purchased at that dealership a month or 2 before. He did take a few hundred off his standard pricing because I bought the tractor there.
Good luck with your search.

Jim from NH

 

[skywaterbanjo]

Thanks, Jim. That is helpful.

I am going to have to order one of these things which is going to take over a month to get.

Quick question: If you have a hydraulic lifter and a hydraulic chute rotator, what do you use to control the hydraulic chute deflector. My 7800 only has a two valve system.

Mark in Colorado
'08 B7800