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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Posts
    672
    Location
    Tupper Lake, NY
    Tractor
    Kubota B7500 HSD

    Default Backhoe removal

    Is it very difficult to remove and attach a backhoe? I just bought a B7500 Front end loader with a backhoe but I want to remove it to borrow a friends chipper. The dealer kinda showed me but like everything else it went in one ear and out the other. The manual is not much help.
    Thanks in advance.
    -Terry

  2. #2
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Posts
    740
    Location
    Close to Petersburg
    Tractor
    Mahindra 2516

    Default Re: Backhoe removal

    If you have it mounted on a sub-frame it should be a breeze! My BH on my BX22 is just as easy as taking the FEL off. A buddy of mine with a MF 35 has a 3 pt hitch BH and it is a beast to get off and back on.

  3. #3
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Posts
    777
    Location
    MI
    Tractor
    Cub Lawn Tractor

    Default Re: Backhoe removal

    The BX22 was designed for quick disconnect on both loader and hoe!

    KCook

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Posts
    672
    Location
    Tupper Lake, NY
    Tractor
    Kubota B7500 HSD

    Default Re: Backhoe removal

    Ouch! I believe mine is a 3 point hitch.

  5. #5
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    177
    Location
    Virginia
    Tractor
    Kubota B2410

    Default Re: Backhoe removal

    If your backhoe is a TPH type as you mentioned in a later post, try the following.

    First lets get one thing clear, there is NOTHING safe about a TPH backhoe or its removal, <font color=red>SO BE CAREFUL</font color=red>. If you have not done this before I do not recommend you attempt it alone, call your dealer and have him come over and help you the first time (pay him if you have to it’s money well spent).

    Start by finding a level place large enough for both the tractor and the hoe. This is really important. Back the hoe into position where you are going to set it down and lower the FEL to the ground. Lower the hoe stabilizer arms to the ground, then move the hoe bucket out until dipper arm (the arm with the bucket attached to it) is vertical. Lower the bucket to the ground. You should now have three points of contact between the hoe and the ground.

    Using a combination of down pressure with the hoe bucket and stabilizer arms you must now take all of the weight of the hoe off of the TPH of the machine. You may find that this is not entirely possible. So (here is where it gets tricky), you have to use the hydraulics of the hoe to move it up down right and left until you can remove the top link. Then move it again to take the weight off of the lower link arms and remove them from the hoe. You can move the Hoe bucket from side to side a little to help get the lower link arms off. You may find that you can only get one arm off at a time and that you have to move the hoe again to get the other one. You may even have to “creep” the tractor back and forth a little. <font color=red>BE VERY CAREFUL WORKING AROUND THE REAR OF THE MACHINE WITH THE PTO OPERATING AND THE HOE ONLY PARTIALLY CONNECTED</font color=red>.

    Once you have the TPH disconnected you can pull the tractor forward a few inches (Be careful not to break any hoses. At this point I would put blocks under the hoe to make sure it stays put. <font color=red>TURN OFF THE PTO.</font color=red> Then you can remove the pump or hoses from the tractor or from the PTO. Pull the TPH lower arms together and secure them (so they do not hit the tires), and drive away. ). <font color=red>DO NOT RELIEVE THE PREASURE ON THE HYDROLIC SYSTEM OF THE HOE</font color=red>.

    The point here is that this is not easy and it will somehow be different each time you do it. I finally got to the place I could drop the hoe in about 15 minutes after 9 years of practice. It will usually take you longer to put it back than it does to take it off. You just have to be patient and work it through. Don't hurry and do not make any large or sudden movements with the hoe or the tractor as you are working.

    I would strongly recommend you spend the 800-900 dollars to upgrade your hoe to a subframe. Woods and others sell the frames for installation on a lot of tractor hoe combinations. If you can't find one your dealer can build one for your setup.

    Good Luck, and remember - Safety first.

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Oct 2000
    Posts
    197
    Location
    Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
    Tractor
    B2910

    Default Re: Backhoe removal

    Frame mounts are a bit more difficult at times. The rear mounts slide right on, but sometimes you're off a tad on the front (frame is an inch or two left or right of the mounts). What works for me is, jack up the hoe from the center (rear most point) with a floor jack before hooking up the hydro lines and raising it the required height with the stabilizers. This way you can pivot it a little left or right as needed. Also, one of the most important things is a good solid base to park it on. If you have a concrete pad to drop the stabilizers on all the better, and if you need the floor jack it's alot easier to move around. I took mine off the first time in the storage barn with slag floor...bad move. Stabilizers sink when moving the tractor forward or back on or off the mounts. Took me two days to get that thing off and on the first time. Now I do it on a pad of 8"x16"x4" landscape blocks and it takes minutes to put on/take off. Also, be extra slow and easy on the hoe's controls when connecting/disconnecting. When raising/lowering the stabilizers while you're off the tractor, the slightest movements will make that sucker jump around. So make your control movements easy and slow and make sure there are none of your body parts where they could get pinched, smashed, squashed.

  7. #7
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    177
    Location
    Virginia
    Tractor
    Kubota B2410

    Default Re: Backhoe removal

    <font color=blue>Frame mounts are a bit more difficult at times. </font color=blue>

    Ok I'll bite. I converted my hoe from TPH mount to subframe. The mounting/dismounting process went from an event that my wife used to sell tickets for, to an uneventfull 5 min pause in the action. How is it you feel that the subframe is more difficult?

    <font color=blue>The rear mounts slide right on, but sometimes you're off a tad on the front (frame is an inch or two left or right of the mounts). </font color=blue>

    So far I have not had this problem. If the rear "hooks" slip in place the front is automatically lined up. My subframe came with two spacers that fit on the TPH cross rod to provide proper spacing to produce this result. I can see that if I did not have those spacers I might have the same problem. What brand of Hoe/subframe do you have?

  8. #8
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2000
    Posts
    3,743
    Location
    Stowe, Vermont
    Tractor
    Kubota L3240HST, KX-121-3S

    Default Re: Backhoe removal

    <font color=blue>Frame mounts are a bit more difficult at times</font color=blue> Huh?

    I'm a new backhoe owner and it takes me about five minutes to get my Woods 7500 w/ subframe mounted. Back up till you can connect the hydraulics, then some more till the cross piece slides into the receiver. Lower the stabilizers to raise the front of the frame. Slide the bar into place to lock the front end. Connect the top link. Raise the stabilizers and drive away.

    What am I missing?

    Pete

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Oct 2000
    Posts
    197
    Location
    Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
    Tractor
    B2910

    Default Re: Backhoe removal

    Not missing anything. I should have specified that the frame mount is on a Bush Hog BH. Bush Hog on a kubota 2910 has four tabs on the front of the BH frame that fit along side, and behind the frame mount on the tractor. If you back in a bit cockeyed the rear mounts slide in alright but the front tabs can be to the left or right. It's only a 1/2 inch or so, just enough to hit the frame one way or another a little wrong. the floor jack allows the bh/frame to pivot left or right that small distance. After that it's pretty much the same as yours, differences are two lock pins on the outside front and no top link required. Now there have been instances where I've backed in the way I pulled and the planets aligned and the gods smiled and it all ligned right up. Either way, it takes only minutes to hook up.

  10. #10
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2000
    Posts
    3,743
    Location
    Stowe, Vermont
    Tractor
    Kubota L3240HST, KX-121-3S

    Default Re: Backhoe removal

    Rocky2 -- On my Woods, if I'm misaligned a tad but in the general ballpark, I find it quite easy to connect the hydraulics and use the bucket to nudge the frame into the proper position. Do you have that option on your Bush Hog?

    Pete

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