Alternator

[Prodirt6000]

Hi All

If I'm running with a high amperage load for long periods of time (close to 13 amps because of lights) will it over time hurt the alternator and battery? I'm wanting to add lights but after looking at everything (even with two 55w lights) it seems like there will be alot of strain on the alternator. Oh and I dont have the money for a alternator upgrade.

Thanks

 

[leonz]

Hi All

If I'm running with a high amperage load for long periods of time (close to 13 amps because of lights) will it over time hurt the alternator and battery? I'm wanting to add lights but after looking at everything (even with two 55w lights) it seems like there will be a lot of strain on the alternator. Oh and I dont have the money for a alternator upgrade.

Thanks

If you have a high CCA (Cold Cranking Amperage) battery and keep the belts tight you should have no problems as loose belts are more of a problem with alternators.


Extremely cold weather is more of a concern with batteries.

A salamander helps in warming up your tractor and reducing engine wear.

Do you have a 110 volt block heater installed for your kubota engine?
These block heaters work really well.


Are these lights from the Kubota Corp. and sold as accessories for the tractor?

leon

 

[jas67]

Hi All

If I'm running with a high amperage load for long periods of time (close to 13 amps because of lights) will it over time hurt the alternator and battery? I'm wanting to add lights but after looking at everything (even with two 55w lights) it seems like there will be alot of strain on the alternator. Oh and I dont have the money for a alternator upgrade.

Thanks

How 'bout LED work lights? I have a set that use about 12 Watts each, and put out 400 lumens (about equivalent to 30W work lights). The downside is that they cost about $65 ea.

Here is a link to them:
Heavy Duty Rectangle Work Flood Light 6 LED 400 Lumen:eBay Motors (item 140367932431 end time Jan-14-10 18:30:19 PST)

I haven't mounted them yet, but will be plenty bright for clearing snow. I'm going to mount them on the ROPS.

I have a B7610, and it only has the 15A alternator, so I have the same issue you do. I figured the price difference on the LED lights is less than a new 40A alternator.

 

[Prodirt6000]

Oh sorry I also forgot to mention that this is a BX 1500. I hear it only puts out 14 or 15 amps.

The tractor is kept in the heated garage so it stays pretty warm. Always starts right up.

These lights are 55W lights from Harbor Freight. I already have them and I did think about LED but the are a bit expensive for me you see...

So here is what I have so far. From the Operators Manual it gives me the Wattage of each bulb.

Headlights - 24W
Tail lights - 3W
Hazard Lights - 20W
Additional Turn Signal Lamp - 20W

Now is that each bulb? So really there would be (2) 24W for the headlights right?

So if you add it all up I got 24+3+20+20=67 PLUS 110W (2 55W Lights) = 177W / 12V = 14.75 Amps. Thats over the limit. What happens there if that happens? Will I be causing harm? At thats saying if the manual was only talking about one light each, not two.

 

[DHD]

I have a B7800 with a 14.5 amp dyno, and wanted to add more lights also.
A 40 amp alternator upgrade is about $200 for the kit and little over $50 if the dealer installs it. Too much for me.

So I agree with jaz67, the LEDs are the way to go.
Just make sure the all the LEDs in each work light illuminates before you install them.

I just got 4 Led Work Lights from
Truck Equipment, Truck Bodies, Truck Accessories & Equipment Parts - Kaffenbarger Truck Equipment Ohio Cincinnati, Dayton, Columbus, New Carlisle
about 1 amp draw, $33.46 each
Two of the work lights are messed up,
one has 3 LEDs that do not light and the other has 6 dead LEDs.
(Made In China) Probably messed up before they left China.
Monday I hope to send the bad work lights back for replacement.
The 2 good work lights are mounted towards the front on my Curtis Cab,
for precaution I added 1 amp inline fuses for each light.
Probably should add an inline switch for each light too, they are bright.
I hope the two bad lights are not an indicator of premature failure.

DHD

 

[escavader]

Until you can afford an upgrade,id let the tractor run a bit with the lights off to recharge ,before shutting down.Youll know when your battery is drained down,lights wont be bright,dynamo struggling to recharge
ALAN

 

[DHD]

Oh sorry I also forgot to mention that this is a BX 1500. I hear it only puts out 14 or 15 amps.

The tractor is kept in the heated garage so it stays pretty warm. Always starts right up.

These lights are 55W lights from Harbor Freight. I already have them and I did think about LED but the are a bit expensive for me you see...

So here is what I have so far. From the Operators Manual it gives me the Wattage of each bulb.

Headlights - 24W
Tail lights - 3W
Hazard Lights - 20W
Additional Turn Signal Lamp - 20W

Now is that each bulb? So really there would be (2) 24W for the headlights right?

So if you add it all up I got 24+3+20+20=67 PLUS 110W (2 55W Lights) = 177W / 12V = 14.75 Amps. Thats over the limit. What happens there if that happens? Will I be causing harm? At thats saying if the manual was only talking about one light each, not two.

Are your headlights 1156 socket incandesants ?
Thats what my B7800 has.
I tried the 12 LED 1156 socket bulbs, ($13 each) they were not bright enough,
I bought them locally, so I took them back.
I 've heard the 24 LED 1156 socket bulbs aren't that good either.
I think there is a 36 LED version that I could of used,
my limiting factor was bulb size small enough to fit in the headlight fixture.
For me it made more sense to go with LED work lights, to keep the amp use low.
There are LEDs that can replace tail lights, hazards and turn signals incandesant bulbs too.
That would bring your amp usage down, might be a little pricey.
This was one of the sites I was looking at for prices, but I never purchased
anything from these folks:
SUPER BRIGHT LEDS home

 

[LQPAPPY]

I have just installed Sylvania Silverstar 1156 in my B3030. They are advertised as 30 % brighter no more amp draw or heat. They do look brighter haven't really used at night to realize any big difference. I had purchased the 1156 halogen super brite 50w but was afraid of the extra heat produced might melt the plastic headlights. The led lights sound good but the reflector plays a big role in the end result and unless you are getting a lot of light to the reflector I'm not sure there is any improvement. They do advertise a led spider bulb that opens after inserted in the light socket and has several led toward the reflector. I do not have anyone local that would carry that light and I have not decided to order one at this time.

 

[KubieTwo]

Oh sorry I also forgot to mention that this is a BX 1500. I hear it only puts out 14 or 15 amps.


Headlights - 24W
Tail lights - 3W
Hazard Lights - 20W
Additional Turn Signal Lamp - 20W

So if you add it all up I got 24+3+20+20=67 PLUS 110W (2 55W Lights) = 177W / 12V = 14.75 Amps. Thats over the limit. What happens there if that happens? Will I be causing harm? At thats saying if the manual was only talking about one light each, not two.

Do you run hazards and turn signals all the time?

 

[tshep]

Kubie is on the right track - all those numbers seem quite generic, probably rounded up, and rarely simultaneous. So maybe 18.5 for 20, 2.2 for 3, etc - you can test the draw easily - and then diversified in use. The H3's are probably not exactly 55 either.
I also bet your system puts out more like 13.5/14 volts, if not more, for your divisor.

I don't know about your area, but around here I found the one guy who loves showing off on alt/gen rebuilds (and makes his money on commercial contracts). At a very basic level all the parts are the same (brushes, commutators, etc. - just different shapes), and maybe an alt. craftsman can fine tune your device's output for 5 or 10 bucks.

LED lamps will just keep going down, use those H3's 'til they price out the same. Those standard lamp shapes will still be around for your lifetime.