I wonder if I could make a couple of suggestions. I keep my BX2200 in the 3rd bay of the garage. I have all of my attachments on dollies. Being able to roll them right up to the 3ph and align them with just the move of a couple of fingers makes a huge difference. I also have a 440 lb capacity electric hoist up in the trusses. I have it suspended from a 10' pipe in order to somewhat distribute the weight when lifting. The hoist makes it possible to lift my MMM easily for blade removal and deck cleaning. I also have been able to maximize space vertically. My 40" Gearmore HD brush hog is on a dolly. My carry-all has little casters bolted to the bottom and the carry-all arms roll right under the brush hog. Though my 36" rear blade has a little dolly, I use the hoist to set the RB piggyback on the brush hog. I have a small dolly for my grader-scraper that I use to move it up to the 3ph. I also have a high dolly for it. I roll the scraper-grader under the hoist, lift it, roll the high dolly beneath it, and lower the scraper-grader onto the high dolly. I then roll the high dolly in front of where the tractor sits. I roll the brush hog (with rear blade and its little dolly piggy backed) under the high dolly. The carry-all rolls under the brush hog dolly. I lay the small dolly for the scraper-grader on top of the stack. I then drive the tractor into the bay, lift the FEL to full height, and lower the bucket atop the entire stack. Five implements stack vertically to save space.
I also have a
chipper, box blade and rototiller on dollies. The bh buckets and ripper have a dolly, as do all the free weight discs I use as
ballast. There is a plywood dolly on 2" casters that makes MMM removal/reattachment quick and easy (no rotating anti-scalp rollers). I have bolt on skateboard style castered feet that make the Woods backhoe easily rollable. Larry's Mower-Axle saves space by storing the MMM vertically during the off-season. I have a chain hoist near a wall that allows for easy removal and attachment of my post hole digger, which bolts to the wall for storage. My sub-soiler also bolts to that wall and I am in the process of creating a way to secure the toothbar and brush forks to that same wall. I bought a bunch of old surplus metal cabinets really cheap and modified them as storage and tool chests. All of these are on casters now so I can move them around. I built an entire case for the one I use as a big tool case. On top of it I have a countertop with T-nuts secured from the underside. This allows me to bolt down my bench vice (good for sharpening MMM blades with angle grinder), benchtop drill press, chainsaw sharpener, bench grinder, chopsaw, and several other stationary power tools.
When I need to change implements, the cars back out of the other 2 bays, leaving room to drive the tractor to the now open space, and the implement of choice rolls up to the 3ph with ample maneuvering room.
My man cave doesn't have a bar or theater seating, but it is full of a whole lot of toys,....er, sorry...
tools from which I get a whole lot of use.
If I had my garage to design over again, I would have put a post on each side and then bun a glulam beam across the bay, supported on the beams. Then I could have supported a much stronger hoist with greater lift capacity. If I could afford it, I would install a track system so the hoist could also roll forward/backwards as well as sideways, but that's a lot more money.
IMHO, a garage designed for a tractor can benefit greatly if there is a smooth paved floor with enough room to maneuver several implements, and a strong well-supported central beam from which to support a hoist. Also, think ahead regarding all the attachments and (extras) you might eventually put there. Plan it so there's enough flexibility to change things in the future. There's always going to be something new that you discover a need for in the future, that you don't recognize the need for now. Planning your layout so that you can rearrange and re-do things in the future can be a big bonus.
