Do your own Fluids and Filters on a BX

   / Do your own Fluids and Filters on a BX #1  

JOHNTHOMAS

Super Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2008
Messages
7,724
Location
Somerset, Ky
Tractor
F2690 4WD RTV X1140 MX5400 HST ZD1211
I changed my Oil and filters on my BX2660 a couple of days ago and took pictures. It's really a simple easy job. A little dirty but not bad. Soap or GO JO will clean the dirt off.
I know there will be some that say pay your local dealer your money to do this so they can stay in business and help the local economy but this is for those that don't want to do that and want to save their money to spend as they please with out saving their local dealer.
For safety, one should put blocks or something under their front tires but I didn't. If you have the brush guard, you have to remove the 4 bolts holding it on which is very obvious and easy to do so I won't cover that.
I removed the mowing deck which is a bit of tugging and grunting but also not rocket science. I should have turned the wheels on the deck to make it roll out easier but I didn't, I will when I reinstall it and ever do it again. The job can probably be done without removing the mowing deck but it is a very easy job with deck removed. Also with deck removed it's a very good time to grease all the fittings on the deck, check deck fluids and sharpen deck blades. I also discovered my deck was bent on one edge when new blades hit it. I got my giant water pump pliers and bent edge of deck back into proper shape. Don't know when or how I bent the deck.:confused: I have pictures of removing deck if anyone wants those posted.
First, have your fluids and filters handy. One transmission filter and one oil filter plus quarts of oil. If you have FEL, lift front off ground with FEL. If not then jack it up or do it over a ditch that you can crawl in to get under tractor.
Raise hood and remove engine shroud and loosen oil filler cap. Two reasons to get under it. One to remove bolt on bottom of oil pan (Have a catch pan for oil to drain into) and while your there turn around and remove transmission filter which will cause about a half a cup of fluid to run out. Have new filter beside you with seal on filter lubricated with fluid, oil or dielectric grease. Install new transmission filter. Place bolt back into bottom of oil pan and tighten.
Your now done under the tractor. Install drain catch pan under filter side and then remove filter off side of motor. Install new filter with lubricated ring seal. I hand tighten filters then turn them 1/4 to 1/2 turn with a filter wrench. My filter wrench is a cheapo that I've had for years and works on about any filter. Pull the spring ring, slip over end of filter and turn. Fill with oil, run a few minutes and then check and top off oil.
The transmission screen removal can be explained if anyone wants to hear/read about it.
I hate getting started on jobs like this and usually put it off as long as I can but when I get into it I sort of enjoy it and the satisfaction of a job completed and well done is very fulfilling and saves a few bucks to buy another tool or toy.
I also recommend everyone do this to familiarize them selves with their tractor and to see how easy it really is.

Edited in Paragraph form for Newbury. Is this better Newbury?
 

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   / Do your own Fluids and Filters on a BX #2  
JT if you the procedure for cleaning the screen and some pics that would help me. Oil I can do but ever played with the hydro end.
 
   / Do your own Fluids and Filters on a BX #3  
JT - nice of you to post the pics and illustrate these simple tasks. I would point out that removing the brush guard and cowling are not necessay, at least not on a BX23. The oil filter is not as easy to get to with the cowling on but for me it's MUCH quicker to work in a tight space than pull those off and put them back on.

Keyman - The screen is easy to clean, just screw it out and wipe it off. A bit of brake cleaner might be a good idea but I didn't bother.
 
   / Do your own Fluids and Filters on a BX #4  
JOHNTHOMAS,

These things are amazingly easy to work on. I did all the maintenance on my last BX except for one. My health has gone to heck on me and I had the initial done by the dealer. A couple of weeks ago, I drafted my wife to "assist" me in servicing my BX2660. Together we serviced it and the deck/FEL fittings. I used an impact wrench on the brush guard and my old VW oil filter wrench which worked pretty well. Overall, it was quicker than hauling it to the dealer and much less $$$$$$$$$

If my wife is still talking to me next time, we'll do it again.
 
   / Do your own Fluids and Filters on a BX #5  
I'm not trying to be difficult, but don't they recommend 10w-30 for a BX?
 
   / Do your own Fluids and Filters on a BX #6  
   / Do your own Fluids and Filters on a BX
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I'm not trying to be difficult, but don't they recommend 10w-30 for a BX?
I don't know who "they" is but this is what I have always used on all of mine because it's what my dealer sells or gives me for my tractors. They don't ask and I don't have to tell. This is what Barlows lays on the counter. Not convinced that from 5W through 40W and the increments in between make much difference for most of the country. Extreme cold and extreme hot may make a difference but I doubt it for mid USA.
 
   / Do your own Fluids and Filters on a BX #8  
By they I mean Kubota. I agree, I'm not sure it makes that much difference where you live, you probably see less colder weather.

Nice photos BTW. It looks like you just put your ratchet rake on, it looks like some of the packing material is still on it.
 
   / Do your own Fluids and Filters on a BX #9  
Hey John nice post and I am sure it is helpful to the new guys. I have a question on the BX1500 that you had that I now have did you service it yourself? Did you change out the HST Fluid and filters and if so did you use SUDT?
 
   / Do your own Fluids and Filters on a BX
  • Thread Starter
#10  
JT if you the procedure for cleaning the screen and some pics that would help me. Oil I can do but ever played with the hydro end.
Sitting on tractor, the rear tire behind you on left side. Look behind the tire down low and you will see this bolt. Above the bolt is a small bolt that takes a 12MM socket to remove. This small bolt is holding a small rectanguler flat plate that comes down and fits in a slot that holds the big bolt in place. Remove the small bolt and plate. Then grasp the big bolt and pull it out. I had to work mine out with the tip of a screw driver and then work it back and forth till it comes out. Could use big pliers. When it comes out it has the screen that looks like a cigar attached, all one piece. Your fluid will start coming out when this is most of the way out so have a tapered plug that's from 1/2" at smallest end up to at least 1" if your not replacing the hydraulic fluid and stick it in the hole. If your replacing hydraulic fluid, forget plug and let it flow into your catch pan unless you've already drained all of the hydraulic fluid. Wipe screen off and make sure nothing on it. If it's gunked up then clean it with gas or some other solvent. Pull stopper plug out of hole, if it's in, and stick the cigar back in the hole. Start keeper bolt with flat plate coming down and make sure the flat plate is in the slot, turn cigar bolt head if the flat plate isn't in the slot, tighten..... then tap cigar head with a hammer to make sure fully seated then finish tightening keeper bolt. Took some pictures of screen bolt and hope they help. I didn't take pictures the other day of screen because I was having to hold my to small plug in with one hand.:)
 

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