3-Point Hitch Chain hookup on rear of my L3400: best attachment point?

[Desmo-Kid]

Hi, I thought I would just use the hitch or tow bar (or whatever the bar that comes standard under the tractor) to pull heavy things with a chain. But I realized that I would put a lot of stress sideways on any bolt-on hook, stress that the hook is not designed for.

What is the most direct and economical way of hooking up a chain in the back of this tractor? Is there an assembly available that slides over this bar, which has a hole in the direction to mount a hook? Or is buying a drawbar and put a hook in that the best way? What have other users found?

[dex3361]

Hi, I thought I would just use the hitch or tow bar (or whatever the bar that comes standard under the tractor) to pull heavy things with a chain. But I realized that I would put a lot of stress sideways on any bolt-on hook, stress that the hook is not designed for.

What is the most direct and economical way of hooking up a chain in the back of this tractor? Is there an assembly available that slides over this bar, which has a hole in the direction to mount a hook? Or is buying a drawbar and put a hook in that the best way? What have other users found?

Welcome to TBN. I use this CHAIN HOOK attached to my draw bar from
Tractor Supply. (Click on the Blue of the words chain hook for the link)
Here is a pick of mine.

[kuboman]

Hi, I thought I would just use the hitch or tow bar (or whatever the bar that comes standard under the tractor) to pull heavy things with a chain. But I realized that I would put a lot of stress sideways on any bolt-on hook, stress that the hook is not designed for.

What is the most direct and economical way of hooking up a chain in the back of this tractor? Is there an assembly available that slides over this bar, which has a hole in the direction to mount a hook? Or is buying a drawbar and put a hook in that the best way? What have other users found?

A clevis works great. It is just a U shapes heavy rod that a pin goes through and you pin it to your draw bar. That way it will pivot any direction.

[leonz]

The term Clevis actually refers to a "Shackle" when you go to the farm supply store for one.

You do not want a slide on tube assembly as it is weaker than the draw bar.

Do several things before you buy it:


1. Measure the thickness of the draw bar to allow for proper clearance at
the shackle ears.

2. Be sure to buy a shackle with a wide opening between the shackle ears
for the drawbar pin hole size; as the width of the shackle between
the ears may not pass over the end of the drawbar-no you dont want to
heat it to bend it to work as the shackle ears will not meet after
that.some shackles are cast with wide openings to accept several pieces
of log chain at one time. Find the right pin size shackle with a wide
opening betweenn the ears and buy it.

[Grateful11]

Try to never hook above the center of the rear axle, you'd probably do a wheelie.

[Baby Grand]

Here's my chain to drawbar anchorage - It's a shackle & banjo link:



This allows fairly quick attachment - probably a little more effort than dex3361's hook. This makes for a very secure & unrestricted attachment to the drawbar. The shackle also is a great place to tie off a rope. I have two slip hooks on the FEL bucket that are also great for working with rope and two banjo links that transform the hooks to chain grabs whenever the need arises:




Remember - try not to pull at an angle to your centerline. If you must do this keep the angle as small as possible to minimize the risk of laying your machine on it's side. Better yet, get a snatch block and some high quality rope for when you get into a situation where you can't avoid and angled pull.

Work safe,

Jim

[dex3361]

Here's my chain to drawbar anchorage - It's a shackle & banjo link:



This allows fairly quick attachment - probably a little more effort than dex3361's hook. This makes for a very secure & unrestricted attachment to the drawbar. The shackle also is a great place to tie off a rope. I have two slip hooks on the FEL bucket that are also great for working with rope and two banjo links that transform the hooks to chain grabs whenever the need arises:




Remember - try not to pull at an angle to your centerline. If you must do this keep the angle as small as possible to minimize the risk of laying your machine on it's side. Better yet, get a snatch block and some high quality rope for when you get into a situation where you can't avoid and angled pull.

Work safe,

Jim

Hey Jim
I like the Banjo Links, where did you get them? I would feel safer with them in a lot of situations or when skidding multiple logs.

[RickB]

Here's my chain to drawbar anchorage - It's a shackle & banjo link:



Remember - try not to pull at an angle to your centerline. If you must do this keep the angle as small as possible to minimize the risk of laying your machine on it's side. Better yet, get a snatch block and some high quality rope for when you get into a situation where you can't avoid and angled pull. Work safe,

Jim

It's just about impossible to cause a side rollover when pulling from a fixed drawbar which is well below the tractor's COG. I say "just about impossible" because someone, somewhere has probably accomplished it using a combination of speed and carelessness.

[Baby Grand]

Hey Jim
I like the Banjo Links, where did you get them? I would feel safer with them in a lot of situations or when skidding multiple logs.

Northern Tool has them, but I think I got mine from Bailey's. Search Chain Grab Link. Where'd you get that swinging hook? That's the first time I've seen one of those and for pulling chain with the drawbar it looks perfect.

-Jim

[MikeInEburg]

I have a 2'' trailer towing ball in my drawbar and simply place the slip hook of my logging chain around it. Easy on and off, pivots nicely, and convenient when I'm moving the trailer around.

Regardless of the connection method, pull only with the drawbar.
Mike