Canopy Light & Fan Installs
- Thread starter kmx5100
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leonz
Super Member
the fasteest way is (direct burial grade wire pairs 110 volts) from the battery using 2 sets of ring terminals 110 volt grade (sold by the box) with a pair of high amp fuses and heavy amperage switches (bolt both of them to a piece of heavy sheet metal bent and secured to attach it to the roll bar with sheet metal screws and attach the automotive fuse blocks to the bracket, attach the cable with loom clamps using fine thread bolts and nuts on the fenders and along the way and out of the way up to the apopliances.
what ever you do by 10 feet more than you need for both cables and buy the plastic coated loom clamps sized for the cables diameter- the hardware stores with the racks of drawers should have them or reputable electrical or truck repair shop.
If you have the room you should be able to hang two loom clamps from one bolt in most spots.
leonz
Willl
Elite Member
House wiring on your tractor ?
Last edited:
KennyV
Elite Member
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- 2,582
- Tractor
- Kubota L4200 GSTCA
Use stranded wire intended for auto wiring.
Vibration and movement will cause solid wire to fail, it may take a while but it WILL eventual fail.
You will never find production wiring on any mobile vehicle using solid conductor wiring.
While spending the time to wire your tractor... add a few more moments and a couple dollars extra. Put relay controls on your lights.
Use power from the key switch to your light and fan switches, then have those switches activate relays to apply fused power to the lights or fan. (this will take any load away from the key switch AND will prevent an unintended accidental discharged battery from lights left on with key off.
Use the correct gage wire for the circuit, enclose wire in flex wire loom, it will look and preform like factory engineered.
Doing it right the first time will save you Time, Aggravation and Money, PLUS will reflect pride in a job well done. KennyV
Vibration and movement will cause solid wire to fail, it may take a while but it WILL eventual fail.
You will never find production wiring on any mobile vehicle using solid conductor wiring.
While spending the time to wire your tractor... add a few more moments and a couple dollars extra. Put relay controls on your lights.
Use power from the key switch to your light and fan switches, then have those switches activate relays to apply fused power to the lights or fan. (this will take any load away from the key switch AND will prevent an unintended accidental discharged battery from lights left on with key off.
Use the correct gage wire for the circuit, enclose wire in flex wire loom, it will look and preform like factory engineered.
Doing it right the first time will save you Time, Aggravation and Money, PLUS will reflect pride in a job well done. KennyV
daveinnh
Gold Member
I installed several units using fuses inside a Curtis cab on a Kubota L4310. Then I saw that Curtis sells a unit with switches for multiple circuits - not sure if it's weather-proof though.
That is a great idea. It is heavy enough to carry the current plus it is double insulated to protect it from abrasion.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
KennyV
Elite Member
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- Kubota L4200 GSTCA
No question it will handle the current... But it will eventual work harden from vibration. (Solid core single conductor) Very bad in mobile application. Stranded cost a little more but will not work harden. If it could work better or even as good, you would find it factory on cars, aircraft or water craft. They spend a little more for reliability.
Protection from abrasion is again in favor of a multi stranded Teflon jacket insulation, as fond on quality wiring, intended for mobile application. KennyV
slan
Silver Member
The type used to wire semi trailers works very well. I think its call cab-tire or something like that.
I used 14/4 so both circuits are in the same cable and it has a very tough outer coating and is resistant to almost anything.
You can get it at any large automotive or truck shop.:thumbsup:
I used 14/4 so both circuits are in the same cable and it has a very tough outer coating and is resistant to almost anything.
You can get it at any large automotive or truck shop.:thumbsup:
KennyV
Elite Member
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- Tractor
- Kubota L4200 GSTCA
Good point.
You can get 2, 4, 5, 6 and 7 conductor, bonded DOT approved cable that is easy to work with, color coded and very durable.
Any good trailer supply will stock it in bulk rolls and cut to length orders. KennyV
Thanks for all your help.... Kubota has a pre-installed, fused (10 amp) wire, that terminates under the left fender well. I tapped in to that for both the fan and light. I installed 2 water proof switches that I mounted on the same curved panel as the cruse control lever, running the wires from the light and fan in split loom to the switches (neatly wire tied to the ROPS).
The fan is physically mounted in the front right corner of the canopy, wedged between the metal frame of the canopy and the insulation with a self tapping screw through the frame and the fan base only (not the roof). The fan I ended up with is a heavy duty trucker fan (can't remember the brand) but it's the only one I found with enough adjustability to mount upside down. The only thing I'm worried about is the fan motor being exposed to the high humidity and moisture we have in South East Texas.
I mounted the LED light in front (driver's side) of the ROPS in the center, where I drilled a single hole to mount the light. A picture would explain it better but I'm not at home to take a picture right now. By the way, this LED Light was free-be from the dealer. It lists for about $270 and it works great... turns night into day.
The dealer was impressed enough with my install to offer me a job doing after market installs on new tractors. I turned it down... after all I'm retiring.
Thanks again for all your suggestions.
Craig
The fan is physically mounted in the front right corner of the canopy, wedged between the metal frame of the canopy and the insulation with a self tapping screw through the frame and the fan base only (not the roof). The fan I ended up with is a heavy duty trucker fan (can't remember the brand) but it's the only one I found with enough adjustability to mount upside down. The only thing I'm worried about is the fan motor being exposed to the high humidity and moisture we have in South East Texas.
I mounted the LED light in front (driver's side) of the ROPS in the center, where I drilled a single hole to mount the light. A picture would explain it better but I'm not at home to take a picture right now. By the way, this LED Light was free-be from the dealer. It lists for about $270 and it works great... turns night into day.
The dealer was impressed enough with my install to offer me a job doing after market installs on new tractors. I turned it down... after all I'm retiring.
Thanks again for all your suggestions.
Craig