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  1. #1
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    242
    Location
    Stonington CT
    Tractor
    Kubota L-45

    Default The new L45

    Well I have had the new tractor for a few weeks now and really like it. When ever I put that monster on my 18' beaver tail 10,0000 pound trailer the day i picked it up, I said to myself what the heck did i just buy, am I crazy??. Then I get it home and drive it into the driveway and it takes up the hole width, and i said to myself yup I think I may have over did it this time.
    But as I was hoping once I got it up and in the yard and looked at it, and drove it for a couple days I got very comfortable with it, and it actually seems more stable than my CK20 Kioti. Love all the features on it very very nice, The creeping function is so nice to have, so you don't have to keep turning around to move up or back up, when useing the backhoe. The hydro thumb is just amazing and so useful as I new it would be. I bought the tool box, and the drawbar hitch for it. Got the tool box on, but not the draw bar hitch yet. The only real complaint that i have is that no where in the book does it say what points to use to tie it down, or at least i have not found it in the book yet. The dealer said that it did not qualify as a four point tie down, but I use four points even on the little Kioti when I trailer it, just seems so much more solid and stable. You can see where it was tied down when it was delivered to the dealer, they had one trough the tube on the loader and one over the back of the back hoe. I just don't like the idea of that way. To me it could still shift side to side if I were ever in an accident. I work for the local town highway dept, and have gone trough the DMV testing to get my class b licence and then a couple years ago to get my A licence. Seems most of those DOT inspectors are a-holes. You do find a fair one here and there. So anyways I want to do over kill tying it down so there are no issues with them, but probably no matter how I do it they will find something to get me on. Also I do not understand why kubota does not have loops on it to tie it down, especially being a construction model, you would think they would assume it would be getting hauled all the time. I saw a pic on here when someone had gotten a M 59, and it looked like they had tie down loops on that model. So anyway I plan to tie down on each side of the brush guard and on each side of where the stabilizers pin on to the back hoe frame, I may also do one over each the back hoe and front bucket.
    So anyway that is it for now, I am really liking this tractor and will like it even more, one; when I sell the CK20, and two; in five years when it is paid for.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -004-jpg   -006-jpg  

  2. #2
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    132
    Location
    Texas on (hobby) horse ranch
    Tractor
    Kubota L5740 HST with LA854 loader and QA, top and tilt, 1 front and 3 rear remotes, foamed rear tires

    Default Re: The new L45

    I would always ask a professional at the dealership (especially rental and service departments) and thoroughly reference any manuals that I could get. Surely there must be kubota recommended tiedown points.

    Off the top of my head ...

    Extra straps on "top" of the loader and backhoe sound good as extra sway control.

    For fail safe load control, I would:

    Thread the bottom tube on the loader for the "front."

    For the "rear", if I didn't like the obvious attachments points. I would consider something to the wheel straps (with CAM buckle for tension) that are common for car carriers. They sell these at Northern Tool, Harbor Freeight, maybe TSC, etc. Since a tractor wheel is much larger than what is sold for autos, you could easily make one.

    Use a heavy duty cam strap for each rear wheel (Minimum: 25k or 30k lb rating with 30' strap) .

    Essentially, you will girth hitch each wheel in opposition to the load of the front strap like the auto straps. Be sure to set front strap first with 30% tension; put tractor in neutral and release break; set and tension rear strap to 80% tension; increase front strap to 80% tension; set tractor breaks and leave in gear. Add final tension to straps. These are just guideline ... do what is safe.

    Probably, I would cut off the hook from the strap and melt the frayed edge; using a well dressed and tightened double figure eight knot, tie a 12" loop in end of strap; thread tail of strap through this 12" loop making a girth hitch around tractor tire (direction around tire is important so to achieve a girth hitch versus a simple "lasso"); tail end of strap is then threaded into cam buckle like normal; ratchet cam until you are happy with tension. Well dressed and pretightened knots in webbing straps are critical; these straps are wide, thick and stiff ... tough to tie, but like any webbing, they can be tied well with with care and attention to detail (i.e. dressed and tightened). Good rule of thumb ... a well dressed and pretightened double figure eight knot will rate as strong as than the webbing itself; few knots or metal hooks used on webbing can rate as high. For this type of webbing, I would tie my double figure eight knot, add some tension to the strap, and gently beat on the knot with a rubber mallet as I increased the tension in order to dress and pretighten it.

    To strap your "rear tires" (i.e. girth hitch) ... Lay these straps with the 12" loops (flat and smooth) with tail stretched out in the direction of where you will attach the cam ratchet. With the straps on the trailer, drive tractor onto trailer so that rear wheels will be on centered on top of strap and the 12" loop will be approximately 16"-24" in front of tire contact patch. Girth hitch the rear tires. Thread the loader tube for the front. Now start tensioning, including the process of releasing and RESETTING transmission and brakes, as mentioned above.

    To girth hitch the rear tires (strap should be flat against tire when done and not twisted): tail of strap will come around tire, over top, through 12" loop, double back over tire, over top, back down towards deck, threaded into cam ratchet; tensioned. Cam ratchet should be in-line with center of tire; at least (not critical), the anchor point for the cam ratchet should be as far away from the tire contact patch as the height of the tire (1.5x - 2x height of tire would be better).
    Last edited by ecoslik; 07-14-2010 at 05:31 PM.

  3. #3
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2000
    Posts
    5,666
    Location
    Cedartown, Ga and N. Ga mountains
    Tractor
    1998 Kubota B21, 2005 Kubota L39

    Default Re: The new L45

    Congrats on the new tractor. If that model had been out when I bought my L39 that is what I would have gotten. Your plan for a 4 pt tie down is exactly what I do with mine. Unlike your dealer I would not tie down something in that weight range with less than 4pts.

    MarkV

  4. #4

    Default Re: The new L45

    I have asked kubota several times what the recommended tie-down points are for my L39 and have been ignored each time. My dealer uses the same method yours does. I have been using the front guard and backhoe as attach points but just bought some axle straps to try for the front. IIRC modified straps or knots in straps are not acceptable with the DOT enforcement folks. I really like the L45, but not enough to trade in my 39 and get another payment book.
    Enjoy your new tractor!

  5. #5
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    132
    Location
    Texas on (hobby) horse ranch
    Tractor
    Kubota L5740 HST with LA854 loader and QA, top and tilt, 1 front and 3 rear remotes, foamed rear tires

    Default Re: The new L45

    Orchard,
    Thanks for the word that ... modified straps are not acceptable.

  6. #6
    Elite Member gwdixon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    2,613
    Location
    Northern CA

    Default Re: The new L45

    I wouldn't and don't use straps. It is nothing but ratchet load binders and chains for a big tractor.

    Two tow chains cut in half will give you the four chains necessary for the tie downs and the grab hooks will already be there.

    The trick is to weld some "D" rings to the four places on the tractor that line up with the securing points on the trailer. Of course, the chains should be lined up to stretch out the tractor at all four corners.
    2009 Kubota M7040, R1s, LA1153 FEL, fork lift, 3 rear remotes, T&T
    2002 Kubota L48 TLB, 12", 18", 24" HD buckets
    2001 Kubota BX2200, Turf, LA211 FEL
    7.5' Howse 3PT disc, 88" Gearmore 4G4 box scraper, 4' box scraper, Gearmore GB85 blade, LandPride RCR2596 cutter, 6', 4' flail mowers, 6', 4' rototiller, 4' Bush Hog cutter, HD subsoiler, Bearcat 70554 chipper, Bush Hog PHD w/ 12", 6" augers, Ford 101 3-bottom plow, 8' land leveler, 6' rake, lots of misc.

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