B7100 HST-D Will Not Move

[brain55]

Just split the tractor, I guarantee it will be faster in the long run. If you have any mechanical ability at all you should have it split in a couple of hours. If you have the competence to section the shaft and weld it back together, splitting that machine should be no problem at all. Do it right, you will be happier in the long run, besides what if you get the coupler off the transmission and find out the transmission splines are bad, you still have to split the machine. It will take you longer to cut that shaft and weld it back together in the machine than it will to split it and do it right.

Brian

 

[Egon]

HOW WOULD I CHECK THAT, THE RANGE SELECTOR LEVER SEEMS TO MOVE NORMALLY. WHAT ELSE CAN I DO TO TEST THE TRANSMISSION FUNCTION?

Jack up the rear of the tractor and put it on stands. make sure four wheel is disengaged and rotate the rear tires by hand in both high and low range

 

[ezlife]

Well, I feel a lot better about splitting the darn thing now that you says it's only a couple of hours to get it split.

I'm wondering if I should just try to leave the bell housing attached to the engine and split it behind the bell housing. Is this recommended or even possible?

Thanks,

Kris...

 

[brain55]

Well, I feel a lot better about splitting the darn thing now that you says it's only a couple of hours to get it split.

I'm wondering if I should just try to leave the bell housing attached to the engine and split it behind the bell housing. Is this recommended or even possible?

Thanks,

Kris...

You can split it no problem between the clutch housing and transmission. Honestly, I would do both. If the splines on the transmission end of that coupler are bad, I would put money on the clutch splines not being far behind.

Brian

 

[KubotainNH]

The actual splitting is the easier part. Pulling off all the hoses, cables etc..is the time consuming part. Search my name and you can find my B6100 split to replace the pressure plate.

 

[ezlife]

Well, I'm not sure if anyone cares anymore, but i have found and fixed (at least temporarily) the problem.

Turns out that the propellor shaft is "pinned" to the coupler by a roll pin, which for some reason or other has sheared off.

Theoretically simple [but actually time consuming and frustrating], all we had to do was knock out the remains of the old roll pin and drive in a new one. Problem fixed.

The only enduring problem is that we have had to do this 3 times now, it seems for one reason or another that the roll pins last a while then shatter, leaving us to repeat the process all over again.

We think maybe the pin may have been driven in a little too far being below flush on one side and protruding slightly on the other thus hitting on some nearby metal (frame?).

This time we checked carefully to see that both sides are properly aligned. The other possibility is that the pin either moves slightly out of position during use or something is putting an undo strain on that pin causing movement or destruction.

Ideas???