Permanent Hydraulic Piping for FEL Grapple

[Fxfymn]

Has anyone come up with a way to add permanent pipng to your FEL for the grapple as opposed to running hose up the loader arms?

I am currently using a rear remote on my L3430 plumbed to the grapple by hose connected to QDs at the rear loader mount and at the grapple. In the four years I have used this arrangement I have bunged up the hoses running up the loader arms a couple of times. No big deal at $15 - $20, but it would be nice to match the OE tubing that runs up the loader arms and just use a short piece of hose to connect the grapple.

I assume I can buy the tubing from Kubota, but I can't imagine what that would cost based on quotes I have gotten for other hydraulic parts from my local dealer.

Anybody have a better idea?

 

[sandman2234]

Maybe invest in a cheap tubing bend and flairing tool. Bend it yourself and save money.
David from jax

 

[oldnslo]

Do you have any local hydraulic shop that repairs equipment. You may be able to bring your tractor to them for a day or two and probably cost less than dealer. They would have the equipment to bend and mount the lines and and look as good as the factory. If you are not familiar with bending & Flaring tubing it can be a challenge.

Roy

 

[kennyd]

I ran two 1/4" hoses down my loader frame and secured them to the existing hard-lines with heavy duty cable ties/zip ties/tie wraps or whatever you want to call them. Been there for 5 years now and has not moved-I consider it permanent.

 

[jonyyuma]

My used tractor was delivered with the plastic and metal hangers or mounts broken, So I used the cable ties to secure them. Note: The black cable ties are UV resistant, the white or clear are not uv treated.It might be a while before i can tap and mount new and better straps? Jy.QUOTE=kennyd;2166113]I ran two 1/4" hoses down my loader frame and secured them to the existing hard-lines with heavy duty cable ties/zip ties/tie wraps or whatever you want to call them. Been there for 5 years now and has not moved-I consider it permanent.[/QUOTE]

 

[crazyal]

I'm planning on running steel lines both under the tractor and next to the existing lines on the loader. I think to do it yourself you'll need to be handy. I'm also going to use the remote for a hydraulic chute deflector for a front mount snow blower. I figure neither needs anything bigger than a 1/4" line/ flow to operate it. 1/4" is much easier to bend than 3/8".

If you decide to flare it you can buy a double flaring kit for not too much (I bought a Snap On one off ebay for $25 a few years back). Brake line flares are not the same angle as hydraulic fittings but I've seen people do it successfully with 1/4". But flaring 1/4" by hand is not easy, I do it on my shop press. To figure out where to bend and what angle I just use wire (like a coat hanger) and keep tweaking it until it looks right then bend the line up to match it. It's fiddly work but for a few lines it's not bad.

I've also herd of people using brake line but I don't know what pressure it's rated for. I would stick to at least 2500 working (3000 would be a better choice).

 

[Fxfymn]

crazyal,
Where are you planning on buying the tubing? I've done quite a few flares in brake tubing using a double flare kit, so flaring doesn't concern me.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I have the same setup you do. My grapple hoses come all the way forward from the rear remotes. They follow the frame under the tractor from the rear to the hydraulic block. Then they follow the loader hoses up to the loader valve. Then they follow the hard loader piping, as kenny discribed, to a set of disconnects near the center of the torque tubes. I have a bungie to manage the loop as the bucket curls and dumps. All along the way the hoses are securely fastened with cable ties to keep them from harms way. Six years and have not mangled anything yet. Knock on wood!

 

[crazyal]

crazyal,
Where are you planning on buying the tubing? I've done quite a few flares in brake tubing using a double flare kit, so flaring doesn't concern me.

I may be able to get it from work. We use stainless steel for gas lines and they are always being installed and removed. Once removed they just get cleaned then thrown away. I found a few sites on line that say what wall thickness is rated for what pressure. If not then i figured I would check with a steel company.

I'm thinking if I mount the remotes in the same place as Kubota would then I would think Kubota should sell the sections of pipe that go from the power beyond to the new spool valves.

 

[Fxfymn]

I was checking the Bailey's catalog to see if they carry the pipe (they don't) when I noticed they have weld on tube, pipe, and hose clamps that are very similar to the clamps Kubota uses to secure the piping.

I think I'm going to order the clamps that will fit my hose set up and call it a day. The little bit of welding required to mount the clamps will be far less work than making new lines. Besides, I'd end up welding on clamps to secure the hard lines anyways.

I have the same setup you do. My grapple hoses come all the way forward from the rear remotes. They follow the frame under the tractor from the rear to the hydraulic block. Then they follow the loader hoses up to the loader valve. Then they follow the hard loader piping, as kenny discribed, to a set of disconnects near the center of the torque tubes. I have a bungie to manage the loop as the bucket curls and dumps. All along the way the hoses are securely fastened with cable ties to keep them from harms way. Six years and have not mangled anything yet. Knock on wood!

Gordon, I see you use the same high tech bungee cord to keep the lines from pinching that I use. The failure of this arrangement is what causes me to occasionally pinch the hose.