Front angle blade, plowing snow with B7610 (B7510,B2410, B2400, B2100, etc)

[jas67]

I have a B7610 (which is the same basic tractor as the B2410, B7510, B2400, B2100, B1700, B7500, B7410, B7400, etc), and currently use a 5' back blade (too short, need a 6' to cover my tracks with the turfs set wide) for accumulations under 6", and resort to the Woods SB60 blower for anything deeper.

I've been considering a front blade with power angle, that way I don't have to switch implements, just leave the blower (or my fork for moving firewood) on the back, and then the front blade can be on all the time.

I have a quick attach bucket adapter (home-made, but like the B3200 quick-attach bucket). So, I'm considering trying to find an hold truck plow, and shortening it to 6' or so, and fabbing up a mount to attach it to my bucket quick attach.

The other option, is to look for a used front blade that attaches directly to the tractor (which would require removing the whole FEL assy).

My big concern with the blade on the FEL arms is that it would be too far out front, and push the front of this relatively light (1300 lb w/o FEL, about 2000# with FEL, and loaded turfs) tractor sideways when trying to use it on an angle.

The down side of the tractor-mounted (as opposed to FEL arm mounted), is that it would take much longer to switch back to the FEL (which could be handy if I need the FEL to dig out the piles left behind by the PENNDOT plow).

What experiences have anyone here had with a tractor this size and a front-mounted angle plow?

I have no problem whatsoever with the tractor sliding sideways using the rear blade. I have loaded turfs, so there is definitely more weight on the back wheels than would be on the front. I did have a little issue with lateral traction with the R4's last year, but the turfs are MUCH better.

Thanks in advanced for your help!
Jay

 

[zzvyb6]

I adapted a 7-1/2'truck plow to my 35hp tractor with the intent of leaving the plow and frame unmodified. Why cut it down? At a high angle, you get the best snow lateral movement, least buildup on the blade, and smoothest cut in a bumpy driveway. It sure doesn't take much power to push a foot of snow. Mine covers the entire driveway in 2 passes. Its just like cutting grass. Once you stop worrying about whether the tractor is good enough to handle an undersized mower, you'll begin wishing you had a bigger one.

 

[NH-Rob]

I used a 6' on my 7510 and it worked well. I did not have hydraulics so I usually left it straite but I did use it angled from time to time. I don't see you having a problem for under 6" of snow.
Rob

 

[elmsdaletractor]

I have a homemade front mounted angle plow on loader, manual (B1750). It is 66" wide and is mated to a truck plow assembly that is 24" out in front of the connection to the loader. No problems with weight or sliding unless heavy weight snow. Should not be a problem.

 

[Dakota_male]

I plow with 7foot blade using a frame mount on my MF1532 and get side slide when icy. Adding ice cleats chains even to one front wheel will solve the sliding, wet snow on a hill lock the diffs up. You won't have any issue with a 6 footer.
PS: I keep a box scraper on back for weight and cleaning up.

 

[Yandaddy1110]

I mounted a 6.5ft Meyers poly plow on the loader arms of my B2400. Looks to stick forward maybe 24'' more than a frame mounted plow. It does kick sideways some in deep heavy snow, but for the most part, works very well. I think front tire chains would eliminate most of it.
I also run a weight box on back with aprox. 600-700 lbs of tractor weights in it, but I think most of that weight is unnecessary.

 

[Ford tractor]

I have no problem whatsoever with the tractor sliding sideways using the rear blade. I have loaded turfs, so there is definitely more weight on the back wheels than would be on the front. I did have a little issue with lateral traction with the R4's last year, but the turfs are MUCH better.

Thanks in advanced for your help!
Jay

I have a larger tractor for snow duties, about 4500-5000# as it sits with loaded R4's and FEL, and the 7' rear blade will push it around like a skinny kid on the playground holding the last twinkie when it's angled. Then again, I'm moving drifts 2 - 3' tall and my tire chains have broken.

 

[ptrotter]

I have a B7800 with a 6 ft. front blade attached to a quick hitch. This works very well for me. A also have a front snow blower and I swap them depending on the snow. It takes about 5 minutes to swap them out. I can leave the quick hitch on and still mount my FEL if I need to although I have to be careful as it is possible to hit the hitch with the FEL. If necessary I can remove the quick hitch in about 5 minute as well if I really need the FEL for serious work. I think this set up is very good and I have had plenty of use for it this year already. I have non-loaded R4 tires with rear chains and have never had an issue, even when blowing 18" of snow or plowing 6".

 

[RoyJackson]

I mounted a 6.5ft Meyers poly plow on the loader arms of my B2400. Looks to stick forward maybe 24'' more than a frame mounted plow. It does kick sideways some in deep heavy snow, but for the most part, works very well. I think front tire chains would eliminate most of it.
I also run a weight box on back with aprox. 600-700 lbs of tractor weights in it, but I think most of that weight is unnecessary.

That's why you have steering brakes...

 

[PILOON]

My 20 hp tractor weighs about 2500 lbs and sports a 6ft manually angled front blade.
No problems with real full front loads of snow and I plow full throttle with a geared in high 3rd.
I do also use differential braking.
The shorter the coupling of the blade, the better the performance.
I did discover that the push arms need to be parallel to the ground otherwise you jack up the front if slanted downwards or the plow rides over the snow if the arms slant upwards.