Winches Logging winch on B7100

[Baby Grand]

I'm taking a slightly different approach. I have been in acquisition mode for the past few months. My most recent purchase is a pair of double sheave block and tackle big enough to handle the 300' of 5/8 polyester rope that I have. Also in my inventory are two of those TS snatch Blocks, a 60' section of 1" nylon rope and a snatch block that is sized for the big rope.

The plan is to use the block and tackle to pull some big windfall hardwoods out of my ravine. I'll use the TS snatch blocks to route the 5/8 line to a flat, level spot where I can pull with the tractor. Eventually, I'd like to set up a PTO driven capstan winch so I don't have to move the tractor to move the log. Finding a good capstan winch to adapt to PTO drive has been tough.

I'd really prefer to have a Farmi or similar winch made for logging, but I have other priorities for the cash these days. If I can demonstrate the financial benefits of heating with wood vs fuel oil to The Plant Manager, I suspect the logging winch might be a little more likely.

-Jim

 

[Kevinc2004]

That Cable that you are refering to is known as STRAND. It is the horizontal line that runs pole to pole beside the road that tha Telephone cable is lashed to. It is very strong.

 

[easygo]

The plan is to use the block and tackle to pull some big windfall hardwoods out of my ravine. I'll use the TS snatch blocks to route the 5/8 line to a flat, level spot where I can pull with the tractor. Eventually, I'd like to set up a PTO driven capstan winch so I don't have to move the tractor to move the log.

-Jim

That is the same thing I have been using for a few years now and it works well as long I have enough room to drive the tractor forward in a straight line. I use nylon rope because it is easy to tie a knot into. Poly rope is far less stretchy but I believe it slips out of a knot easier. I have two snatch blocks that I sometimes rig into a 2:1 block and tackle and it works quite well. Takes time to rig it up especially when you have to change the position of the block during the pull. I have a loop in one end of the rope that I just hang onto a hook in the end of the logging chain and a double half hitch tied to a large shackle that is on the draw-bar. After a real hard pull the half hitches tend to bind up pretty good but not impossible to untie. I use 1/2" nylon rope and that is enough to stop my tractor (B7800) with the wheel still turning. This rope has the tensile strength of 6400 lbs. It has not broken during a pull but I imagine after 4 seasons of use it will be time to get another 100ft length for about $35.

 

[Baby Grand]

Easygo,

Your message is encouraging - it helps to know that someone else out there is making it work! I know it'll be more work than using a proper winch, but it does fit my present budget.

Just to clarify - I'm using 5/8 double braided polyester, not polypropylene. Polyester ties like manila, has much less stretch than nylon (much less whiplash when it lets go) and is stronger and holds a knot much better than polypropylene. In spite of my confidence in the hardware, I still plan to attach some king of chain link fence type barrier to my ROPS just in case I "separate" a line during a pull.

Instead of using the 2 half hitches, try a bowline next time - they are much easier to untie after exposed to a strong, applied load.

-Jim

 

[Bluelick]

Hey Jim,
I like the idea of the chain link fence on the ROPS, I was thinking of something like that also. Share a picture if you get that set up, I'd like to see it.

 

[Baby Grand]

Hey Jim,
I like the idea of the chain link fence on the ROPS, I was thinking of something like that also. Share a picture if you get that set up, I'd like to see it.

Will do. I hope to get out in the woods this weekend, weather permitting. Not sure how practical it will be with 24" of wet snow out there and no chains on my wheels, but nothing ventured ... nothing stuck, right?

Keep us up to date on your skyline. That could actually work in an area that I have no hope of getting near with the tractor on the back side of my property. Deep stream ravine with very unstable soil.

-Jim

 

[easygo]

Jim,

Your tractor is at least 1000lbs heavier then mine so be careful. I'm sure there are ways to part rope I just have not managed it yet.

I have a bowline on the end of the line but the half hitches I tie on the bite. I try to start my pull as close to the tree as possible and most often it is between 30-80ft from the stump. I believe I might have used the entire 100ft of rope 2 or 3 times in the past years, when I was pulling down hung up tree and I had to be that far away or had rigged up the block and tackle. I think you will find that it is cumbersome to drive the tractor in a position where you can tie the very end of the line to the draw bar or shackle and the other end to the log. Be sure to tie it to something smooth with no sharp edges, but I imagine you know that.

 

[CANdiyMXER]

I have been looking at a way to handle trees at our property for over a year now. At first it was easy just to pull them with the tractor as they were close to the road. Now I am trying to get the ones further in.

I looked at the capstan winch and thought it was a great idea as it has a multitude of different uses and is very light and portable, great for off site as well. I think it is a great product, but not suitable in the end for me.

I also looked at using a Milemarker hydraulic winch, but when i added up all the other costs; frame/blade, pump, flow and pressure restrictors, I was looking at an expensive, but slow final solution.

I then started looking at PTO logging winches. A lot more than I wanted to spend for casual use but a lot sturdier and safer. I have a 50HP MX 5000 and purchased a Farmi JL 450. It matches the tractor and can't overpower it. That is important as a winch exerts a lot of shock load and twisting to the tractor. In a heavy pull, it will jerk when the log hits an obstruction and raise the front wheels a couple of inches. I would be concerned about the stress a winch would put on a smaller tractor and whether the winch would be strong enough to get the log to the tractor. When stuff happens with a winch it happens fast!

I woud suggest the capstan winch, as it is best bang for the buck and can't damage your tractor. If your tractor gets stuck you can pull it and your load out...front or backwards, something my winch can't do. .

 

[Bluelick]

I learned a knot many years ago when working for a furniture moving company that I have used a lot. It is of course very good for securing loads, but also works well for taking up slack, and holds well while also being easy to untie. It's also going to be hard to describe, I'm afraid, and a quick search did not turn up an image or video on the web. So I'll give it a try.

After securing the far end to the log, run the line around whatever you are going to tie it to (the tractor) and bring the loose end back along the line until you have used up most of the loose end. Then take the line (not the loose end) and tie a slipknot in the line, so that the "pull" end of the slipknot is toward the tractor. Now you have a slipknot loop in the line, and you run the loose end of the rope through the loop of the slipknot. Pull the loose end back toward the tractor until it is tight, then tie a half hitch slipknot around the line.

This really needs a video! Sorry, hope it wasn't too confusing.

 

[Baby Grand]

I learned a knot many years ago when working for a furniture moving company that I have used a lot. It is of course very good for securing loads, but also works well for taking up slack, and holds well while also being easy to untie. It's also going to be hard to describe, I'm afraid, and a quick search did not turn up an image or video on the web. So I'll give it a try.

After securing the far end to the log, run the line around whatever you are going to tie it to (the tractor) and bring the loose end back along the line until you have used up most of the loose end. Then take the line (not the loose end) and tie a slipknot in the line, so that the "pull" end of the slipknot is toward the tractor. Now you have a slipknot loop in the line, and you run the loose end of the rope through the loop of the slipknot. Pull the loose end back toward the tractor until it is tight, then tie a half hitch slipknot around the line.
This really needs a video! Sorry, hope it wasn't too confusing.

Sounds like a trucker's hitch (goes by another name, haymaker, I think) - you can use it like a pulley to multiply your pull. One of the old hands at the lumberyard/building supply place where I worked many moons ago showed it to me. I used it to secure plywood, dimension lumber, pallets of shingles, etc to the flatbed Mack I drove before the company broke down and bought us some binder straps. The manila rope I got from the company hardware store, so they didn't mind the expense. They ran a lean operation.

Trucker's hitch - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

YouTube - How to Tie Rope Knots : How to Tie a Trucker's Hitch Knot