3-Point Hitch Top & Tilt and Rear Remotes Installed

[paulwestski]

Sounds like an expensive three-peckered octopus to me...:laughing:

Sean

Actually that would be four peckered....it's a four spool valve.

Sure will make life easier...rather than letting the last adjustment on that box blade be good enough. I can make it exactly how I want it without climbing up and down continually. I work my tractor in mountain terrain. If you want to create a level area and the the tractors leaning on a slope and you have the three point angled to one side you can only make cutting passes in one direction. With the hydraulic TnT you can make a pass in one direction then turn around tilt the opposite and make another pass...all from the comfort of of your seat.
Too bad all tractors don't have the TnT as standard equipment.
Good thing my hobby is tinkering and upgrading

 

[Piston]

How many GPM does your hydraulic pump put out?
Your valve should rated slightly higher than your hydraulic pump output.

It's 9.6gpm for implements....

Do you have a welder?
If so you can build the valve mount that u-bolts to the ROPS yourself.

I do, so I'll attempt to build something for the bracket.

One thing to visualize is on that four spool valve you'll have ten hydraulic lines coming off of it.

Ya when you say it like that it does seem to make that little ole valve a whole lot bigger

What were you going to use the other two valves for??

Well I want to use one for the log splitter which will have the PB sleeve in it, and I really don't have any use for the other. I'm thinking that once I get a box blade I may spring for hydraulic scarifiers, but most likely not. I really don't have any use for the 4th spool right now.

I'll have to find out some more about the float valves because I will want the ability to use the float, so if the valve I was going to order doesn't offer it I want to find something that does. Thanks again for all your help.

I'll start doing some more reading on what valves will and will not work with the setup I want.

 

[Chilly807]

Well I want to use one for the log splitter which will have the PB sleeve in it

Unless I'm mistaken, the power beyond sleeve will go in the outlet port of the valve body, to carry fluid to the next valve body in circuit, usually the 3ph control valve. I'm assuming you're going to run the power beyond hose from the loader valve to the new valve inlet port, and the return line to tank from the new valve can be teed into another tank line, usually the one from the loader as well. The remaining two unused spools will be blanked for now until you have a use for them?

Sean

 

[paulwestski]

Unless I'm mistaken, the power beyond sleeve will go in the outlet port of the valve body, to carry fluid to the next valve body in circuit, usually the 3ph control valve. I'm assuming you're going to run the power beyond hose from the loader valve to the new valve inlet port, and the return line to tank from the new valve can be teed into another tank line, usually the one from the loader as well. The remaining two unused spools will be blanked for now until you have a use for them?

Sean

Sean
you're correct..:thumbsup:three lines from the new spool valve not including the remotes.
High pressure in, from the loader power beyond
High pressure out, to the line that was connected to the loader power beyond.
Return line out, usually "T's" into the loader return

 

[paulwestski]

Anyone getting ready to order a T&T for your Kubota L3400 or L2800??

When I ordered my T&T kit I thought that I was getting a L3400 and then Brady Barlow upgraded me to a L3800.

According to Brian at FitRite my tilt cylinder is too long.
The top cylinder is the right length.

I was hoping to trade cylinders with someone that is getting ready to order a T&T set up from FitRite for their L2800/L3400.

I haven't yet had a chance to use my T&T yet. All I've been able to do is mount it, plumb it and mount the quick hitch.

Thank the good Lord I'm so busy at work......... I cant get up to the mountain property and get any seat time in and try out the T&T.

 

[Chilly807]

I was under the impression that part of the L3400/L3800 was the same dimensionally? I'd try it first and be sure before you take the plunge and swap.

Sean

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I was under the impression that part of the L3400/L3800 was the same dimensionally? I'd try it first and be sure before you take the plunge and swap.

Sean

OEM side links are 1 1/2" different in length with the L3400 being longer than the L3800. If you look close at Paul's pictures, you can see that the side link is more than 1/2 way collapsed and I build Fit Rite Side links to be at the mid point when the implement is level.

Paul's current setup will work for him, it just will not have equal tilt in both directions.

 

[Piston]

PM me if you need any advice on what fittings will work.

Paul,
I have a question for you about your fittings (or anyone else)

I have ordered just about all the parts I need, and have the valve, hoses, and connections put together for the valve itself. I was waiting on a few parts that were on backorder from DHH to finish the install. I now have those parts but won't be home for another week and a half.
I ordered a side link from Brian as well, and will be using one of my remotes for it.

The only hoses and fittings I still need to complete the package, are the 3 going in/out of the valve, the PB, IN and OUT.
My question is, do you remember what type and size of fittings you used to go in and out of your tractors system? I read that you used all 3/8" JIC hose ends, but I believe those are all female connections correct? So what type of adapter did you use to go from the female 3/8" JIC fitting, into your FEL pb port (or should I say out of your pb port to the hose)
Also, what fitting did you use on the 'tractor' end of the hose going from your 'OUT" port of your valve to the hydraulic block (i guess would be return?) under your operators platform? I'm assuming I would need a male 3/8" JIC fitting (preferablly a 90*) going from the female JIC hose end into the hydraulic block?

I will be using all 1/2" lines with the female JIC fittings on each end. I know what I need coming out of my valve, but going into the tractor is what I'm not sure of.

I won't be back at my tractor until another week and a half and will have to start clearing property lines shortly after I get home, so I'm trying to order everything so it is at my house waiting for me when I get home. :thumbsup:

Thanks for your help.

 

[Chilly807]

Piston,

Until Paul has a chance to reply, I'll share what I did with mine. I used mostly female JIC ends as you mentioned, and in some cases that was a mistake. The connections to my valve were ORB, so I needed to buy adapters from ORB to JIC, then screwed the hose ends to them. What I should have done was get an ORB end on one end of the hose, and a swivel JIC on the other end. The cost of the fittings are similar, but it would have saved the cost of about a dozen adapters. Only one end of the hose needs to be "adjustable" or have a swivel, plus it would have been one less chance of a leak.

I used a 90* end teed into the return from my loader valve for the return from the remote valve, it was pretty easy to do. I learned the lesson from the female JIC ends on the valve hoses when I made up the implement hoses, there's a JIC on one end and a male NPT on the other end that goes into the male QC's. Both can move for adjustment.

All my hoses were 3/8, as were most of the fittings. The stock hoses on my L3400 were all 3/8 so that's what I used.

Sean

 

[Piston]

Chilly,
THat actually helps a lot, I looked around and found some more info and also called WR Long for the size of fitting I need coming out of his 3rd function valve.
I made my order so if I ordered the wrong stuff then it's too late :laughing:

Thanks for your help.


Paul, no need to dig around looking for the answers to my confusing questions
Thanks for posting your report and helping me along the way! :thumbsup: