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Hersheyfarm
Veteran Member
I kinda didn't care to do the filter swap, now at least when I take it in they will bypass step one and go straight to pressure testing.
M59 hydraulics got slow and weak.
- Thread starter Hersheyfarm
- Start date
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Hersheyfarm
Veteran Member
rScotty said:Parts or Service manual? Or operator's?
In the parts manual it might be because the page indexed for the hydraulic filter is actually a fuel filter. The hydraulic filter is on page 131 under the heading : Hydraulic oil line (suction).
I don't see any revised parts listed in the parts manual but my manual is first printing and I'm not on the revision list. Your mechanic will be. Note that the part 030 (a pipe threaded nipple) which is what the vertical driver's side hydraulic filters screw onto is known to loosen when changing the hydraulic filter(s). It's good practice to tighten that piece into the casting & consider using Loctite on the nipple-to-block threads before installing the filter. A glance at the way the screw threads are designed will show what the problem is.
In the service manual I don't see any mention of revisions for the filters, but the text and picture on pages G-26 and G-30 do repeat the same mistake that is in the owner's manual on page 85. That is, they all show the wrong illustration and reference drain plugs that don't exist.
If that mistake has been changed in later manuals then maybe that is the reason for the revision.
BTW, I've yet to meet a mechanic who makes money on oil changes. There's lots of ways to lose money doing them though. I still think the best mechanical work is done by a careful owner doing the same job for the second time.....
rScotty
And I think it is the drain plug thing. I coated the page with hydraulic oil(I got plenty) and that allows you to read the the text underneath.
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Hersheyfarm
Veteran Member
Like I just posted in another thread with someone buying a new machine that sat for years, could that contribute to failures? In pumps, you have steel, brass, and aluminum. Any corrosion that sets up in pump could drastically shorten life. Dealer bulletin from Hershey farms: Start and warm up all equipment multiple times a year.
powerstroke444e
Veteran Member
Had this happen to my B26 and lets hope this works for you. On mine the thumb valve stuck in open postion and it didnt make any noise but created back pressure on the system so after a few movements it would do the same think. Make sure your 3pt lever hasnt been moved or levers for any other hydraulic functions.
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
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Hersheyfarm
Veteran Member
so what was happening, was the releif valve bypassing hydraulic pressure? I do have the auxilary hydraulics up front that is capped off and never used.
The hydraulics do heat up hot quick too.
Stonehaller
Platinum Member
The M59 has open center hydraulics. If your hydraulics heat up quick, then that is a clue something is restriction oil flow causing oil to be dumped over the relief valve. This could be a valve that is stuck and not fully returning to center. You could quickly isolate between the backhoe and front loader by setting the levers on the back of the tractor to the three point position. You do not have to take the hoe off, just don't raise the three point with the hoe on. Now see if the loader works normally. If the loader works normally, the problem is probably a valve on the backhoe. Could also be the quick disconnect for the main pump to the hoe is not fully seated. If the loader still does not work normally, then the problem could be the loader valve or the auxiliary front hydraulics. Is there a separate control valve or electric solenoid for the auxiliary?
powerstroke444e
Veteran Member
I would start at backhoe and unhook the quick attach couplers and make sure they are connected. On yours you have a valve that needs moved for backhoe to work??? If so move it on and off several times to make sure it is all the way over. Start the machine and at IDLE see make sure 3pt lever is all the way down and hit the valve for front hydraulics you should here it dead head only hit it for a second cycle it. If you have a thumb cycle that valve several times.
I know this sound simple but I have worked on many machines and found that more often than not its something simple. Let us know what you find.
On mine when the thumb valve was moved it closed power tank port on the end of the system so it would slowly gum things up shut it off and cycle valves and it would work for couple min.
Hope this helps.
PM if you want to talk about it as I just dont think it would be a mechanical failure on that low of hr machine
FYI I learned this the hard way several times and most likely will again so dont get mad at the machine it tells you what is wrong we just never listen.
I know this sound simple but I have worked on many machines and found that more often than not its something simple. Let us know what you find.
On mine when the thumb valve was moved it closed power tank port on the end of the system so it would slowly gum things up shut it off and cycle valves and it would work for couple min.
Hope this helps.
PM if you want to talk about it as I just dont think it would be a mechanical failure on that low of hr machine
FYI I learned this the hard way several times and most likely will again so dont get mad at the machine it tells you what is wrong we just never listen.
rScotty
Super Member
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- Rural mountains - Colorado
- Tractor
- Kubota M59, JD530, JD310SG. Restoring Yanmar YM165D
Well, I'm thinking that heat is actually real good news. It means the pump is working & working strongly. So we are looking for a constriction somewhere and just need to find it before it causes the fluid to get hot enough to damage something - but that's a slower process than something mechanical. It might be in an operating valve, a filter, connector, or a bypass.
I'm guessing that from your description of what is happening that the restriction is a rather than a clogged filter ...or maybe pressure in the filter is actuating a bypass route for the fluid. Whichever, I agree with your mechanic that replacing the filters was an obvious first step.
Now it's just a matter of finding where that flow is going instead of where it should.
I wouldn't expect those different metals in contact to cause significatn electrolytic corrosion in just a few years...coated with oil as they are. Although I don't blame you for being worried about that.
Hey, Hershey, did you drain the hyd. oil before swapping the two filters? A local mechanic told me on my M59 he could swap them without loosing more than a few quarts, but I sure couldn't. It came out in such a rush when I pulled the plug. I have heard that hooking a shop vac to the fill opening will lower the pressure enough that you can do it without loosing oil. Anyone tried that yet?
rScotty
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Hersheyfarm
Veteran Member
If the pump is not gone then the bypassing has to be around the front loader controls. I unhooked the backhoe connects and switched to 3 point hitch. Like the front loader it will not lift unless I idle it up, and as I ran it it was getting worse as it heated up. I cycled the front auxiliary buttons too. Where are the releif valves and bypasses? The steering and hst seem normal. Also when cycling the loader it would lift faster if I dumped bucket at same time. Just out of curiosity where are the pumps? Is one behind fuel filter and the other where the 2 filters are underneath?
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Hersheyfarm
Veteran Member
rScotty said:
No I put buckets under the filters and drained til it stopped. It came to be just over 6 gal. There is no way I was going to try and spin off and on quickly. That fluids in a hurry.
But, if you put one leg down and lift the tractor up sideway it would probably save a bunch of fluid. I'm going to try that next time. Lift one side up, for hydraulic filters, then the other side for tranny filter. Of coarse leaving front bucket up so you get maximum tilt.