Gotta split my B3200 to replace a $7 seal, great....

[Verticaltrx]

Parked my B3200 in the shop last night to preform the 400hr maintenance on it today. Came out today to a puddle of hydraulic fluid under the tractor. It seems that grass/hay wrapped around the drive shaft from the clutch to the HST and took out the seal (at the clutch housing end.) The only reason this happened is that the roll pin used to hold the shaft on the clutch output is about 1/4" too long leaving a little stub to catch things as it goes around. Well, it must have caught a little hay as I was raking yesterday and wrapped it around there.

Anyways, I'm going to have to replace that seal and the only way I can figure is to split the tractor to get the drive shaft out. I tried driving the roll pins out on each end and compressing the shaft on the splines, but there isn't enough movement to get it free. So now I guess I get to split an almost new tractor with only 400hrs on it.

Anyone split a B-series before? Based on what the WSM shows it looks like a huge job. I've split larger Ag tractors before, but this thing has so many lines, linkages, body panels, frame work, loader frame etc that must be removed it's crazy. I guess I'll just have to dive in and do it, but not looking forward to it.

I'll try to post some pics along the way. I'll also be triming the offending roll pin flush with the shaft so this won't happen again. My guess is the roll pin is like that on most B-series, so anyone who operates in tall grass or hay should probably take a look at that. I know I'll also check our B7610 when I get a chance and make sure this doesn't happen to it as well. Any advice or input would be welcome. :confused2:

 

[Don87]

Parked my B3200 in the shop last night to preform the 400hr maintenance on it today. Came out today to a puddle of hydraulic fluid under the tractor. It seems that grass/hay wrapped around the drive shaft from the clutch to the HST and took out the seal (at the clutch housing end.) The only reason this happened is that the roll pin used to hold the shaft on the clutch output is about 1/4" too long leaving a little stub to catch things as it goes around. Well, it must have caught a little hay as I was raking yesterday and wrapped it around there.

Anyways, I'm going to have to replace that seal and the only way I can figure is to split the tractor to get the drive shaft out. I tried driving the roll pins out on each end and compressing the shaft on the splines, but there isn't enough movement to get it free. So now I guess I get to split an almost new tractor with only 400hrs on it.

Anyone split a B-series before? Based on what the WSM shows it looks like a huge job. I've split larger Ag tractors before, but this thing has so many lines, linkages, body panels, frame work, loader frame etc that must be removed it's crazy. I guess I'll just have to dive in and do it, but not looking forward to it.

I'll try to post some pics along the way. I'll also be triming the offending roll pin flush with the shaft so this won't happen again. My guess is the roll pin is like that on most B-series, so anyone who operates in tall grass or hay should probably take a look at that. I know I'll also check our B7610 when I get a chance and make sure this doesn't happen to it as well. Any advice or input would be welcome. :confused2:

I don't have access to the WSM you are talking about.......but that aside..........if all ya gotta do is take that roll pin out to access the seal...........I'll be darned if I would split the machine.

Cut the roll pin off flush, get a flat bottom punch the proper size for the roll pin, along with the BFH and get the pin out.

Sometimes a little heat with a torch, going through the hole in the pin will make it come out also.

 

[Verticaltrx]

I don't have access to the WSM you are talking about.......but that aside..........if all ya gotta do is take that roll pin out to access the seal...........I'll be darned if I would split the machine.

Cut the roll pin off flush, get a flat bottom punch the proper size for the roll pin, along with the BFH and get the pin out.

Sometimes a little heat with a torch, going through the hole in the pin will make it come out also.

Nope, both roll pins are out. I actually had to drill a small hole in the rear part of the frame to access the rear one. Problem is the transmission and engine are physically too close to allow the shaft to come out without sliding one forward. Imagine a PTO shaft that didn't have any slip in it, the only way to unhook it would be to remove the implement from the tractor.

 

[Don87]

Nope, both roll pins are out. I actually had to drill a small hole in the rear part of the frame to access the rear one. Problem is the transmission and engine are physically too close to allow the shaft to come out without sliding one forward. Imagine a PTO shaft that didn't have any slip in it, the only way to unhook it would be to remove the implement from the tractor.

Oh ok........now I understand..........kinda like the BX series with the fan for the rear-end.

Can you pull the motor mount bolts, and shift the engine forwards a little?

 

[Don87]

I would protect the radiator(take the fan off if necessary, and if possible), remove the motor mount bolts, and slide the engine forwards.

I think thats going to be the procedure for you anyway, but maybe you can get by 'without' completely pulling the engine a setting it on the floor.

 

[5030]

I did the same thing to my pickup truck's pinion seal driving across a hayfield with the gooseneck to pick up rounds. Not as bad as splitting a tractor but a PITA just the same. Now, I pull the trailer in with the tractor instead of the truck.

I looked at the fancy 3 point trailer movers and just welded a big ball on the top of my rearmount bale spear. Lots cheaper, does the same thing.

I set the landing gear on the trailer to clear the ball in the pickup and use the 3 point lift to lift the trailer and landing gear when moving in the field. Saves cranking.

Grass hay and bailer twine are bad on seals.

 

[Verticaltrx]

I'm really surprised this hasn't happened until now. This is the 2nd year I've been using it to rake hay with, guess I've just been lucky. I'm also very surprised it didn't happen in all the bush hogging I've done. I've mowed probably 100ac over the two years I've had it.


Another thought occurred to me last night, instead of splitting the tractor at the clutch housing, I'm going to see what it would entail to split it where the end of the frame section meets the HST. If feasible it would require removing the operators platform, the HST linkage, hydraulic lines, etc but would still be less than splitting it at the front. I might even get by without removing the loader brackets if that is possible.

As to just moving the engine forward a little, I'd have to look at things a little closer, but I don't think it'd be possible. I think this is constructed differently than a BX, the engine is somewhat of a structural member like on a larger tractor. It still has frame plates on the outside of the engine, but when you unbolt the engine there would be nothing to keep everything together.

 

[zoltanthegypsy]

Another mighty tractor felled by a lowly blade of grass. Been there, done that.

I feel your pain,
Z.

 

[kuboman]

How about cutting the shaft and then get one made up with a longer slip joint so it then could be pulled off. I'll bet the cost to get a shaft made is cheaper than the cost to split the tractor.:thumbsup:

 

[Verticaltrx]

How about cutting the shaft and then get one made up with a longer slip joint so it then could be pulled off. I'll bet the cost to get a shaft made is cheaper than the cost to split the tractor.:thumbsup:

Problem is the current shaft doesn't have any slip, the only movement is the small amount you can slide the CV joints on the shaft once the roll pins are removed. I'm not sure I want to rig anything up that's not factory considering this shaft spins at engine RPM and it turning all the time. I'm afraid that even a tiny amount of play in such a shaft will cause vibration.