M7030 Blow-by (HELP)

[Sackett876]

I have an M7030 that has been trouble for a while...It has been used little except in fall of year,,,mainly since I got it because of oil blow-by out of blow-by tube...Year before last when the problem started it would start blowing oil out only after it got hot (not really hot but I mean when used for say 10-15 minutes) anyway when it would start blowing out, I could drop to idle & it would stop leaking,,,run it a while (from 1 minute to maybe 15-20 minutes) start again, drop to idle stop....Have had it to Kubota Dealer 2 times costing me a fortune,,,last year the owner of the shop told me that he thought that the sleeves were rusted (pitted) from sitting, when run it was allowing oil to pass by, thus out blow-by...Now this year it is BAD to the point that I can't run it, it is blowing the oil out faster than I can pour it in!!!! Also, when I take the dip stick out when running it blows oil out the dip stick tube like OLD FAITHFUL!! thus, there must be compression in the oil pan....Which makes sense to me if the pitted sleeves theory is correct.... What do any of you think??? Where can I get a Sleeve/Cylinder kit, other than local Kubota dealer?? Thanks so much!!!!

 

[KennyV]

I don't think your problem is pitting...
BUT you will not know for sure untill you remove the head and look what you have...

I would try to isolate what cylinder is causing that blow by... you can do it by interfering with the fuel to the injectors, one cylinder at a time... KennyV

 

[Tx Jim]

I'd suggest performing a compression check on all cylinders.

 

[Sackett876]

..

I would try to isolate what cylinder is causing that blow by... you can do it by interfering with the fuel to the injectors, one cylinder at a time... KennyV

Ok how do I do this?? By loosing the injector while it is running,,,one cylinder at a time???

 

[5030]

Don't matter it has to come down, all the way down. You likely have a broken ring or a couple broken rings. It will necessitate new sleeves, pistons and ring sets.

The previous owner abused it. Sleeves don't pit as a rule unless there was water in the cylinders. No cavitation problem, Kubota engines are parent bore.

It's worn out.

 

[Sackett876]

Don't matter it has to come down, all the way down. You likely have a broken ring or a couple broken rings. It will necessitate new sleeves, pistons and ring sets.

The previous owner abused it. Sleeves don't pit as a rule unless there was water in the cylinders. No cavitation problem, Kubota engines are parent bore.

It's worn out.

Does anyone know of an aftermarket store to get a Sleeve piston overhaul kit???? Been on internet all day no luck yet...Ok just saw the parent bore part,,,so what I am gonna have to do is pull the block to be bored??? or only if scored????

 

[PoorPlowboy]

Does anyone know of an aftermarket store to get a Sleeve piston overhaul kit???? Been on internet all day no luck yet...Ok just saw the parent bore part,,,so what I am gonna have to do is pull the block to be bored??? or only if scored????

You're not going to find a sleeve kit for a kubota due to the parent bore design. You're likely looking at having the block bored, sleeved, and new pistons, rings, bearings, and seals IF the block can be sleeved. If not, you're looking at a new engine block on top of all of the other parts.

A parent bore engine has the block cast around the sleeves. They're integrated into the block, per say, and cannot be "swapped out" like a wet sleeved engine like a JD or Perkins in the MF tractors. You're looking at a comprehensive (and expensive) overhaul.

 

[Sackett876]

OK so I'm really getting educated here...I'm a fair "shadetree" mech., but the pros here are helping greatly, for example 5030 I read your posts from Feb-2006 in regards to m-series tractors...from what I gathered there the M-series can be re sleeved,,,?? where you wrote & I quote;

"BigCajun:

You can resleeve either type, it's just harder to pull the liners on a parent bore engine....you need either a screw type liner puller and a 3/4" drive impact wrench or a hydraulic liner puller. There is another way though. Run a weld bead vertically from the top of the liner to the bottom. It shrinks the liner away from the block wall and allows easy removal.

There is another type of diesel though not very common and that is a bored block and no liner. That's a throw away engine.

I'm going to do my 1085 this summer. It's a Perkins parent bore.

A wet linered engine has to have seals on the liners or what is called crevice seals to keep the coolant on the wet side of the liner and not on the combustion side. Parent bore/dry linered engines need no seals as the liners are a dry interference fit in the block itself."


Am I reading this correct???

 

[kuboman]

Depending on what you find it may be cheaper (and easier) to get a new short block and abandon the old block. If it is not too bad you can have it rebored and then move up to the next piston size. Either way you will be looking at a complete engine job.

 

[frank5785]

Sackett, do you have any idea how many hours on your tractor?