Kubota B Series - Service It Yourself

[bp fick]

Can I Really Service My Own Compact Tractor?​

Because Kubota makes sooooo many engines and combinations for so many kinds of B tractors, not every detail will fit everyone's tractor, but the principles are the same, regardless of the myriad of models.

I totally enjoy servicing my own equipment. There isn't anyone who's likely to care as much as the owner about doing it right. If a guy can change oil in a lawn mower or a car, he can do this.

That is the point of this thread. Answering an inner question some will have. Can I really do the service? Sure you can.


The 50 hour or 1 year anniversary (whichever comes first, imho) service includes, greasing everything. Not THAT many grease points, dumping the front axle fluid and re-filling, an engine oil and filter change, and a hydro transmission filter change. (some guys dump the fluid as well for "peace of mind", but in this thread, I will only be changing the filter.)

What is NOT the point of this thread?
The choice of dino versus synthetics has been beaten to death. I frankly do not care to engage that for the umpteeth millionth time.

Nor do I particularly care whether a guy follows the manual or goes "beyond what the manual calls for" for "peace of mind". Nor is this a OEM products versus OTC filters and fluids debate invitation. Again, that horse is beaten so dead it couldn't possibly rise again. :laughing:

My sole intent here, really, is merely to encourage guys to a.) do the maintenance that is required and help answer b.) what is the degree of difficulty? What tools are helpful and what "speed bumps" should I expect?

 

[bp fick]

Bring It On In​

Of course, you'll want to be sure to do a small job with the tractor before bringing on into the shop. It's best if the fluid have been warmed and circulated a bit before draining. This doesn't mean you have to risk First degree burns. Let it cool down a bit, if you got it really hot.

Assemble your tools.

The first thing to do is check the lug nuts. It may be that you've checked them monthly or never have before. This would be an ideal time to check them. If you have an airgun and compressor, use it. Whatever tool you have, tighten those lug nuts!!!

Have some sand or sawdust spread under the front end of the tractor, or have some ready, because it seems no matter what you do, you'll drip, splotch or spill some fluids on the shop floor. That's what oil dry, sawdust or sand is for. Don't sweat it.

Have a couple of oil catch pans. I used a very deep one and a shallow version with a pouring spout. Let's start with the engine. Pop the hood, and loosen the two thumb screws. This enables you to tilt the grill forward. No need to actually remove it. The side curtain panel has a "keeper", as shown. Simply life. The entire curtain is now free to remove out of the way. Easy and no tools required.

Start by removing the old oil filter. You'll need an oil filter wrench of some kind and there are a number of choices. Cups, band wrenches, giant "claw" type filter wrenches, etc. Use what you have or can buy/borrow. I happen to have a #3 cup. In fact, I have all the sizes, collected over the years. The oil filter for the Kubota is the same filter used by Honda cars and many, many others.

On the my particular engine the radiator hose rubs on the oil filter. Just is what it is. Also, there are some wires there. Just make note of obstacles such as these and gently work around them.

Have a catch pan down below and remove old filter. Lighten oil the rubber gasket of the new filter and spin it on. I like to use the cup wrench to make a snug fit, but there's no need to King Kong it on.

Under the tractor, find your oil pan drain plug. Mine was the only plug in the oil pan. 14 mm. Very common Japanese size. Easy right? Well, not so fast. Turns out the bottom brace of the FEL is smack dab under the oil drain plug. Nice!

Ok, there will be a bit of shower of oil, going a few directions when loosening the plug. Have an over sized pan ready. This isn't going to be a nice single stream. Seen this many times before on cars and trucks too. Nothing new.

Once the oil stops dripping, usually within 10 minutes, re-install the plug. Take your time, don't cross thread it. Fingers only, snug it up. Snug the plug tight, but again, there is absolutely no need for King Kong. If you use 3/8 drive socket wrench or an open end wrench of 8" length, there will less tendency to over tighten. Put that 2 foot cheater bar back!! No oil plug needs to be THAT tight.

Head up to the top of the engine. Remove the oil cap and ready an oversized funnel. "Easy Pour" sounds good on the jug label, but in the real world, an oversized funnel is your friend.

Put in 3 quarts. Again, different engines will vary slightly, but only put in 3 quarts for now. If you need 1/3 quart more, there'll be time to add that later. Over filling is not a good thing. Under fill until you run the tractor, let the oil settle down, and re-check. Mine took 3 and 1/3 quarts. YMMV.

 

[bp fick]

So, You've Read Your Manual, Right?​

Everything really is in your operator's manual. Capacities of all fluids, service schedules, and nifty little cartoon pencil drawings of everything we are discussing. Consulting your manual is simply a must. It's all in there. Really.

 

[BlacknTan]

Nice photo essay..

Hope to see the hydro and front axle change also.

Great idea!

 

[bp fick]

Front Axle Fluid​

Disclaimer: Kubota states CLEARLY that either (s)UDT or Gear Lube is recommended for the front axle. I am a huge believer in gear lube. Since I use 4x4 over 50% of the time when operating the tractor, I want the protection, although it is just my opinion, not gospel, but hey! It's MY tractor.

I choose gear lube, and synthetic, at that. Mostly, I chose it for our -30 winter mornings and easy flow rate. But, as promised, I will not tell you what to use in YOUR tractor. UDT or dino 80w-90 gear lube? They are all wet, fluid goop and all work. End of story. You use what you want.

At $7.27 a quart, Warren Oil sells under many brand names. This is Mag-1 75w-90 synthetic. Manual states a touch over 3 quarts. We'll see. Front axles are notorious for trapping air pockets. They aren't fill once and forget. In my experience, I'll be checking it a few times over the next month and likely have to add a few more ounces. Don't sweat it, it is normal.

Ready your drain pan. Having a pan with pouring spout was nice because I could position the spout directly under the drain plug. Yes, there is a drain plug on each of the front hubs. One faces forward and one faces backward. Tackle them one at a time. 14 mm again, that favorite size. I got about a quart, by eyeball, out of each hub. Again, it is normal for the amount to be quite imprecise.

If you loosen the yellow/orange fill plug, you'll free the oil to flow freely, very, very freely. If you overshoot your catch pan, oh well. You did put that sand/oildry/sawdust down, right?

If you leave the fill plug in position, the oil drains out in "blurps" somewhat erratically. Trial and error. I prefer the fill cap off entirely. YMMV.

Drain both sides. Replace drain plugs, tighten with trusty 14 mm wrench.

You'll likely benefit from a long neck, transmission funnel. I didn't spill a drop during re-fill. I believe I'd have made a mess without one.

Two quarts in. Check level. Mine took 3 quarts and I stopped. I'll check again in a few hours, after operating the tractor. No doubt, I'll add a bit.

Done. Now that was incredibly easy.

 

[bp fick]

Grease, No, Not The Musical​

You just have to have your own grease gun. Tractor ownership comes with sober responsibilities. Nah... not really, but seriously, you've gotta have a grease gun. Tractors have grease zerks (nipples) onto which you push your grease gun and pump a few times. That's it.

Two things about greasing. First, before pumping the trigger on the gun, be sure you really are "attached". The gun should have a "feel" that you can detect, through experience, that you really are on the zerk. If not, it usually is simply a matter of not being straight on. If you begin to gently pump the trigger, you shouldn't see grease come wadding up on the end of the gun. That's a dead on signal that you're not actually pumping grease into the fitting, but are merely oozing it out of the gun and making a mess.

Once you get the hang of it, you feel the connection and by zen, , you'll visualize the grease going through the nipple into the joint. Now, how much is enough? A couple of good squirts is normally all that is required. If you over do, you'll have gobs of messy grease everywhere. You've got a box of shop rags of your old t-shirts, rag towels, and such, right? You don't? Man O Man, getting shop rags stocked up is absolutely necessary. Word! Do NOT make rags out of your wives dishtowels and other linens unless you actually enjoy sleeping out in the shop. :laughing:

Your manual will have all your grease points noted and pictorially illustrated. Take note. Find them all. Grease them all.

What kind of grease? Grease. There's more kinds of grease than Carters have pills.

 

[bp fick]

Consult your Loader manual for all the grease points on your FEL. Those are not shown in the tractor manual. I'd grease the FEL every 10-12 hours of use. By its nature, there are "joints" and to minimize wear and tear, grease keeps things riding on lubrication, not metal to metal.

Here's a little, inexpensive grease gun. I like this handy, small size, because I can throw it in my "travel" toolbox and have it. This dates back to our boating days. With the Kubota B, there are usually only 5 or so grease points. Two under the tractor dealing with linkage of the clutch and HST peddle. The 3 point hitch has a few grease points too. All these points are specifically noted and illustrated in your operator's manual.

 

[bp fick]

The Air Cleaner Service​

Like much of the country, we suffered through a horribly hot and dry summer, so I wasn't surprised to see all the dirt and dust on the air filter.

The Kubota manual for my tractor says the air filter element can be cleaned up to six times and used for up to a year without being replaced. Kubota even suggests "washing" the outer filter with mild soap and water and drying with low air pressure. Hmmmm. I've cleaned foam air cleaners, but not too sure I really want to hand wash and dry this folded (paper?) element.

If you choose to use your air gun to blow out the compartment and the element itself, the manual says to limit the air pressure to 30 psi. Makes sense, as you don't want to blow a hole right through it.

At first blush, it might look as if you need to remove a bolt on the bracket in front of the air cleaner housing. You don't. You can simply push the housing back toward the firewall and there's plenty of room to unclip the cover. Carefully slide the old filter out for inspection/cleaning. The inner filter seems rather fragile is likely quite expensive. Don't want to damage that.

Anyway clean or replace? It's your call. I decided to install a new one. I did keep the old one for an emergency, I guess. Gosh, what a pack rat.

When replacing, be sure the evacuator valve is in the six o'clock position. Snap it up and done. After checking the radiator, fan belts, and spray the battery posts, it's time to replace the side curtain, the grill and close the hood. We're done.

 

[bp fick]

Changing the HST Filter​

(gonna have to take a break in this thread. I'd go ahead and swap the HST filter, but it being a holiday, no Kubota stores open today and I only have a quart of sudt on hand. I cannot be sure I'll only lose one quart when I swap the filter. If I lose three quarts, per chance, it would sideline my tractor. So, I'll update as soon as I can.)

 

[chriscos]

bp flick, thanks for this thread! I am coming up on 50 hours on my 2920 and this has been in the back of my mind. I have a service manual, but hearing it here and your full color photos will help a lot!

Thanks again!