Hydraulics for log splitter L3010 without fel

[Gordon Gould]

If you are wanting to save some expense, consider taking the valve off of the log splitter and mounting it on the back of your tractor. I mounted mine off of the bolts that hold on the ROPS. Then use two sets on quick disconnects on the supply and return hoses of the log splitter piston.

Another advantage to this is that you will have permanent connections on the power beyond loop and will not have to worry about disrupting the flow of that loop.

Thats an interesting idea :thumbsup:

 

[HighTwelve]

Keep in mind that you can buy a standalone log splitter - a good one with a B&S or Honda motor - for about $1300 new, less if you wait until spring and TSC and HD discount them. I tow mine behind my L3010 and save hours on the 'bota. Alternately, I leave the splitter at the barn and use the 'bota FEL and rear tote to bring the logs to the splitter. Different strokes . . .

 

[Gordon Gould]

Different strokes . . .

There you go.... You hit the nail on the head

 

[westtexus]

Well, I doubt running my tractor at a little higher than idle for a couple hours at most at a time will wear it out. I have looked at the differant splitter options, run from tractor hydraulics, with pump run by pto, or stand alone. all seem to have advantages and disadvantages.
If I was to install some sort of system to provide hydraulics, I could run other types of implements. I just had on mind being able to split the wood that is too big to use as is. Any way to get a hydrauic splitter is going to cost money, just some ways more than others.
Havent decided which way to go, may not do any, as I really don't like the idea of lifting the larger peices of wood to be split.

 

[Gordon Gould]

You can get a splitter, either stand alone or run off the tractor hydraulics, that will split in the horizontal or vertical position. And they are common and easy to come by. In the vertical position the round stays on the ground. You dont have to lift them.

 

[westtexus]

Yeah I thought of that too. The ones I'm talking about are 16 inches or more across, and 16 to 20 inches long. Before drying they are very heavy, even if moving on the ground.

Messick's says parts on backorder, not available before February, so I have time to decide.

 

[HighTwelve]

I leave my MTD Yard Machines splitter attached to the tractor for stability when I have it rotated to vertical, otherwise it's no big deal. I just grab it, pull out on a spring loaded lock pin, and swing it into vertical position and let the pin reseat. Takes about 10 second because I'm used to doing it. As far as logs go, I have gone beyond 36 inches - mind you on well dried tulip poplar, not something like oak. I use a big pry bar to position the log and start out by trying to shave off chunks and work the log down. You could do the same with a tractor mounted splitter. If you buy a stand alone splitter go for 21 tons minimum - preferably 24 or 25 tons.

Some guys believe logs split best frozen - lots of opinions, I cut logs into wood stove lengths and allow 1 yr seasoning before splitting. Works for me. Sure helps to have a helper, too.