Pete - Bird, as usual, beat me to it. (Nice job explaining, Bird.)
Since you were talking about the engine, you're in luck. Increasing the hydraulic pressure would only increase the likelihood of stalling the engine, if anything.
As Bird mentioned, I suspect your stalling problem is coming from using the HST pedal as an accelerator and not, as it in reality is, a transmission shifter. Just remember that when you need more power, you need to go slower. Just as you wouldn't shift a manual transmission into high gear to go up a steep hill, you can't floor the HST pedal to do it, either. Try to visualize the HST pedal as an infinitely adjustable manual transmission with low, or first, gear at the beginning of the pedal movement and high gear with the pedal all the way "to the floor".
Of course, you've also got a range selector which allows you to select a high or low gear (and, in the case of the L-series, a mid-range in between). Use the low range for heavy work (or if you're stalling the tractor in high range) and the high range for lighter, higher speed work.
The other thing to remember is that you should also set the engine rpm to a relatively constant rpm that's high enough to do the job. HST transmissions need an engine rpm above 1500 or so, and work best above 1800. Other than those minimums, set the engine rpm to the task at hand. Heavy loader work and work with PTO-powered implements often requires rpms close to rated PTO speed, which is probably around 2500 rpm on your tractor but drops as the size of the engine increases, because larger diesel engines, with their very long piston strokes, aren't capable of the higher rpms that the smaller ones are.
All that said, don't hesitate to ask any questions about anything that comes up, or anything that doesn't "feel right" when you're using your tractor. There's lots of folks here who've "been there and done that", whatever it is, and are willing to help. We may be apt to want to laugh
with you, but not
at you. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
MarkC