Hydraulic Tip 'N Tilt

   / Hydraulic Tip 'N Tilt #181  
Re: Hydraulic Tip \'N Tilt

GlueGuy -

Thanks for the reply! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Being a long-time computer geek, I've spent a lot of time working in San Jose (Novell, mostly), but it never occurred to me to look for tractors there. I guess I associated more with the "silicon" and not so much the "valley" part of Silicon Valley. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Next time I'm down that way I'll stop in at Noble and take a look-see myself.

HarvSig.gif
 
   / Hydraulic Tip 'N Tilt #182  
Re: Hydraulic Tip \'N Tilt

Ron,

"The valve from Curtis is open center. It will only work with the rear hydraulic output block. Leaned a lot about the system."

I am following these T&T threads closely and considering electric solenoids in the cab, but I have some questions purtaining to the curtis blade and your second FEL control. Your pictures are great. I like the look of the 2 levers below your FEL joystick: but how do they work?

Let me just list my questions to keep it simple:

1. Why does the curtis blade and valve have to be run from the rear hydraulic block?

2. What do those two levers below your joystick operate?

3. How can I get a valve block like yours below the joystick?

4. How would you recommend installing a T&T and Curtis blade using spool valves on the joystick pedestal (which keeps hot valves and hoses away from the seat)?

5. It seems odd that the T&T cylinders in the rear are fed from the PB of the joystick toward the front of the tractor, and the snow blade in the front of the tractor is fed from the rear auxillary hydraulic block. That's a lot of hose to cross in the middle. Please comment.

6. I printed the specs on the cylinders you used. Are they working out alright or did you have to modify them similiar to Bird. If so, could I just buy different length cylinders?

My thought is this: I am willing to operate my T&T from the joystick pedestal instead of the right fender b/c that keeps the hot valve and hoses away from my arms, but that would require another valve assembly on the pedestal (like you did). I also want to add the curtis blade (like you did), but would like to also run it from that pedestal: but is this possible if it must be fed from the rear auxillary hyd. port on the transmission case?

For the sake of safety, I'm willing to put all of my controls on the pedestal whether I'm operating the T&T at the rear or the snow blade at the front. But can it be done?

If not, Then I would go to electric solenoid valves down on the frame with switches on the fender/dash. This will certainly work for the T&T, but I don't know how to hook up the snow blade yet?

I apologize if this is too much to try to get answered here. I have tried to do my homework, but still have questions that may have to go straight to Curtis and V&M for example.

Thanks again,

Leef
 
   / Hydraulic Tip 'N Tilt #183  
Re: Hydraulic Tip \'N Tilt

Leef
<font color=blue>1. Why does the Curtis blade and valve have to be run from the rear hydraulic block?</font color=blue>
It can be run from the front by removing power beyond line on FEL valve and installing it to out line of Curtis valve. Then install a hose from power beyond of FEL valve to the in port of the Curtis Valve.
<font color=blue>2. What do those two levers below your joystick operate?</font color=blue>
They operate the 4 quick disconnects below the FEL valve and the 4 quick disconnects in rear mounted above 3PH.
<font color=blue>3. How can I get a valve block like yours below the joystick?</font color=blue>
I got the valve from my dealer. It was left over from front blade he installed on a 2410. I do not know where to find another.
<font color=blue>4. How would you recommend installing a T&T and Curtis blade using spool valves on the joystick pedestal (which keeps hot valves and hoses away from the seat)?</font color=blue>
I would install a 3 section valve with power beyond and run the 4 hoses back to quick disconnects mounted near 3PH. The third would go to the Curtis angle cylinders. Valves would be similar to a Backhoe valves
<font color=blue>5. It seems odd that the T&T cylinders in the rear are fed from the PB of the joystick toward the front of the tractor, and the snow blade in the front of the tractor is fed from the rear auxiliary hydraulic block. That's a lot of hose to cross in the middle. Please comment.</font color=blue>
I have the Curtis valve mounted on the rear fender to cut down on the number of hoses running under the tractor. I will use the valve under the FEL valve to run Curtis angle cylinders.
<font color=blue>6. I printed the specs on the cylinders you used. Are they working out all right or did you have to modify them similar to Bird. If so, could I just buy different length cylinders?</font color=blue>
I modified Top cylinder like Birds. I made the part that Bird made to the Tilt cylinder. But have not used it. Found that on my 2910 stock cylinder gives me similar adjustment as original link.
I would not buy the valve from Curtis. It is a Cross valve that can be purchased at TSC or others for less than $100.00.
The system works very well. I have flexibility to hookup the different attachments that I have. My back blade has a cylinder to offset blade right or left. With Tip & Tilt hooked up it requires 3 valves. I use the fender-mounted valve to adjust tilt to keep blade level when grading side road. Biggest problem I have is remembering which cylinder is hooked to which valve./w3tcompact/icons/tongue.gif


18-30594-ronssig2.gif
 
   / Hydraulic Tip 'N Tilt #184  
Re: Hydraulic Tip \'N Tilt

Ron,

Thank you for the explanation. That was a quick reply. I think that settles it for me. I'm going to run hydraulics from the PB of the FEL joystick and mount the valves below the joystick.

Now I have to go out and find a 3 valve block which will mount nicely below the joystick. One lever will be Tip, one lever will be Tilt, and one lever will be to angle the curtis snow blade left and right.

I don't yet know how many cylinders are on the curtis blade, but from your advice it only needs one valve - right?

And since this is all open center and power beyond, I can still use the joystick to lift and tilt the snow blade too - right?

And if I run the hoses off the 3rd valve down the FEL arm to quick disconnects, I can operate a hydraulic post hole digger mounted to the side of the bucket with that same 3rd valve - right?

It may not be the most convenient placement for these valves, but it seems safer than valves/hoses up on the fender (and less cluttered). If my logic above holds true, then it also fits my every possible need.

Thanks again Ron:)

Leef
 
   / Hydraulic Tip 'N Tilt #185  
Re: Hydraulic Tip \'N Tilt

Leef,

I might have a deal for you on that valve. Send me email at hayden@equallogic.com if you are interested.

Peter
 
   / Hydraulic Tip 'N Tilt #187  
SLOBuds said:
Is there a way to get all of the lovely pictures with this exceptional message string?
Click to expand...

Might be worthwhile to post the question to News/Feedback with a link to this thread.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
 

Footer Links 1

Top