Rear Remotes

[honorbound]

I have a B3200 and want to add 3 rear remotes to it ( I think?). i am not a hydraulic person so I am very confused. The more reading I do the more confused I get, yes Im old, lol. When I went on Kubotas site and used the my build it asked me if I wanted a Detent Valve (non self canceling), or, a float detent valve, and how many of each. I know nothing about hydraulics so I have no clue what it is asking me. I want to instal a hydraulic blade on the back of the tractor for snow removal, so do I need 3 valves and if so what kind. If someone here is able to expalin this I would greatly appreciate it. Looks like cost is around 1500 dollars to do this set up.

 

[wcampbell47]

I should think you only want two remotes .. one to control the top link and one to control a side link.

Kubota can install factory style remotes. There are threads that speak to using "power beyond" from the FEL hydraulics - but I did not go that route.

Step one - have the remote control valves installed.

Step two - acquire the hydraulic top link and side link.
These folks can help.
Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com

 

[honorbound]

thank you for the reply. Again I am very hydraulic illiterate so still not sure what kind of remotes i need.

 

[wcampbell47]

I'm happy with the factory install. I think you want the type where the control valve lever returns to the neutral position automatically. Basically you want the ram to go in or out (translates to up or down) and when you turn loose of the lever the ram stops moving and the control lever returns to the center.

Attached is a photo of a single remote installed on a B3200.

 

[k0ua]

Just to confuse the issue, some people have 3 remotes for a rear blade. Top link, Side link. and a 3rd for some of those more expensive rear blades that have a power angle cylinder to adjust the angle of the blade on the fly instead of getting off and selecting one of 5 holes. So with 3 you can adjust your angle of attack (top link) side angle for ditching (side link) and scrape angle (hydraulic angle adjust on the blade itself).. Good luck

James K0UA

 

[Ductape]

I have a B3200 and want to add 3 rear remotes to it ( I think?). i am not a hydraulic person so I am very confused. The more reading I do the more confused I get, yes Im old, lol. When I went on Kubotas site and used the my build it asked me if I wanted a Detent Valve (non self canceling), or, a float detent valve, and how many of each. I know nothing about hydraulics so I have no clue what it is asking me. I want to instal a hydraulic blade on the back of the tractor for snow removal, so do I need 3 valves and if so what kind. If someone here is able to expalin this I would greatly appreciate it. Looks like cost is around 1500 dollars to do this set up.

A detented valve will continuously provide flow to a function, until till you return the valve to neutral. One use for this might be to power a three point log splitter with it's own valve. Push the tractor valve past the detent, and hydraulic fluid flows through your splitter, allowing you to stand at the splitter operating the splitter valve to split wood.

A valve with a float detent lets fluid flow in and out of a function, allowing an attachment 'float' over the ground. One example of this might be for a top link connected to a finish mower. This would allow you to mow over much more uneven terrain and the hydraulic top link will freely extend or retract as you drive over hills or through gullys.... keeping the mower following the terrain.

A standard 'return to center' valve does just that, with no detents. Let go of the lever, no fluid flows to the work ports (nothing moves).

What type of valve you want depends on what you want to do with it.

For more confusion..... you can double the amount of functions by adding diverter valves. So two remotes can operate four functions, etc.

 

[BlacknTan]

A search for "rear remotes" will give you enough reading for a month at least. I say this not to put you off. I was in the same position before I did mine.. nothing more than a rudimentary knowledge of hydraulics. I read old threads here, asked my dealer and others here questions, and generally boned up on the process. I'm no hydraulic expert, but I did the install myself and it turned out correctly, and works perfectly.
The Kubota set-up is nice. It places the handles in a perfect position, for me at least, but I don't like clamps, and I don't like drilling holes unnecessarily, so I made my own mount in the Kubota style, mounting it off existing holes. I bought my own two spool valve, from Messicks after picking the guy's brains on the phone (very helpful), and plumbed the whole thing myself. Actually, after all the preparation, the install was done in a half hour, and seemed a bit anticlimactic.

Here's what I did... I'm sure you can do the same! It's all in the prep work!

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/151839-b-7800-rear-remotes.html

 

[Ductape]

A search for "rear remotes" will give you enough reading for a month at least. I say this not to put you off. I was in the same position before I did mine.. nothing more than a rudimentary knowledge of hydraulics. I read old threads here, asked my dealer and others here questions, and generally boned up on the process. I'm no hydraulic expert, but I did the install myself and it turned out correctly, and works perfectly.

FWIW, I was in the same position years ago. When I was looking to add a loader to my tractor, I think I was secretly hoping MadReferee would hold my hand and do it for me. He made me read and research myself, and offered advice and answered questions when I had them. He was the one who made me learn more about my tractor's hydraulics, and today I'm much better off for it. I'm glad I got to meet him in person when I bought his Miller 175 mig welder back when.

 

[honorbound]

Thank you for all your input. BlacknTan I am sorry but I do not have the equipment nor availability of the equipment to make the clamps and brakets as you did, but I agree I do not like things clamped to the ROPS as they should be bolted on. as for the reading egad there is month of it to go through so I guess I will be busy trying to figure out what will work best on the B3200, glad for the challenge.