Oil & Fuel Should I do the 50 hour service?

[Tuxman]

I have a L3400HST that I purchased brand new in July 2007. As of right now it has a total of 31.5 hours. I am a newbie to tractors as well and coincidentally I also have 31.5 hours of tractor time in me.

My question is since the tractor is coming on 5 years old, should I go ahead and do the 50 hour service? I remember at the time of purchase the dealer said that I could wait until 50 hours but I don't think he counted on me only putting 6 hours a year on the tractor.

I don't put "hard" hours on the tractor. The 30 hours have mostly been using the bucket and back blade to grade sand in our riding arena, plow snow on a handfull of occasions, and some mild landscaping. To date the only maintenance I have done is the greasing of the bucket and 3 point hitch every 10 hours. I check the oil and it is still probably within a quarter inch of the full mark.

Any input on the maintenance I should perform?

 

[KennyV]

Do the 50 hr AND change the engine coolant (antifreeze) it ages even in non use.... KennyV

 

[rswyan]

I remember at the time of purchase the dealer said that I could wait until 50 hours but I don't think he counted on me only putting 6 hours a year on the tractor.

Probably not ....

To date the only maintenance I have done is the greasing of the bucket and 3 point hitch every 10 hours. I check the oil and it is still probably within a quarter inch of the full mark.

Oil in a diesel engine should be changed at least once per year (annually) .... regardless of hours.

Possibly less of a concern these days as we've gone to USLD.

 

[Bluegill2]

Like said, change engine oil once a year, in low hour use.

You are also forgetting a very important place that needs grease, the front axle pivot point. Look for a fitting in front and in back of that point. Very Important!

 

[k0ua]

Like said, change engine oil once a year, in low hour use.

You are also forgetting a very important place that needs grease, the front axle pivot point. Look for a fitting in front and in back of that point. Very Important!

Also please remember the 3 Zerks under the floor-pan, for clutch and brakes pivot points. They are easy to spot when you crawl under and look up. Absolutely get that anti-freeze out. On the front pivot point you are supposed to remove the small square plug near the front Zerk, and pump until you see some grease come out of the plug and replace the plug. On the back one (harder to find) Just give it two or three good pumps and stop. You will not see any grease come out anywhere, it goes inside of the axle eventually. Grease the hood latch, and battery connections to prevent corrosion. Good luck with your "new" tractor. I bet it is still shiny

Oh I almost forgot, you should spray lube up your suspension seat . If you do not know you have a suspension seat, the good news is: You Do!.. the bad news is it is probably frozen up. a lot of them are.. spray it down good with something like PB Blaster (get it at lowes or home depot) and flip the seat forward and step on the square plate that the seat rests on and and hold on to the ROPS and jump up and down like Wiley Coyote. Ahem do this in private as people think you are stupid. This is NOT a snipe hunt. This is really the way to do it. You can adjust the tension with the adjusting bolt with the handle on it. in the back under the seat. Adjust for your weight. Good Luck

 

[Chilly807]

Oh I almost forgot, you should spray lube up your suspension seat . If you do not know you have a suspension seat, the good news is: You Do!.. the bad news is it is probably frozen up. a lot of them are.. spray it down good with something like PB Blaster (get it at lowes or home depot) and flip the seat forward and step on the square plate that the seat rests on and and hold on to the ROPS and jump up and down like Wiley Coyote. Ahem do this in private as people think you are stupid. This is NOT a snipe hunt. This is really the way to do it. You can adjust the tension with the adjusting bolt with the handle on it. in the back under the seat. Adjust for your weight. Good Luck

Like James said, it's probably stuck. Mine was stuck hard down, I had to use a crowbar to pry it up first, then did the dance on the seat base to get it to go back down. After a few repeats of that performance, and repeated spraying with 3-36 it's worked well ever since.

You really should change both the engine oil and the hydro fluid, moisture from condensation will accumulate over time. The antifreeze is definitely past it's best too.

Sean

 

[ricklman]

The knocking at your door is the Tractor Police! They have come to repo your tractor due to misuse and neglect!

Seriously, use it. Start it up once a week or so and operate it around the yard, arena or something. Tell the wife you've been sentenced to 1 hour a week on it...

Machines need to be used. :thumbsup:

 

[TripleR]

I normally stick pretty strictly with the Operator Manual, but in this case I have to concur with everyone else and ricklman has some good advice, use it. I realize I am committing tractor heresy and putting my TBN membership at risk, but personally if I used a tractor no more than that, I would just put my money in the bank and rent one when needed.

 

[k0ua]

I normally stick pretty strictly with the Operator Manual, but in this case I have to concur with everyone else and ricklman has some good advice, use it. I realize I am committing tractor heresy and putting my TBN membership at risk, but personally if I used a tractor no more than that, I would just put my money in the bank and rent one when needed.

OMG, OMG.. Blasphemy, Blasphemy I say.:laughing
:shocked:

James K0UA

 

[Marcussen]

My owners manual says oil change at 50 hours and then every 100hrs OR once a year which ever comes first, with all the shaving I got out of my transmission at 50 hours I would not skip the 50 hour fluid change including the front end on a 4 wheel drive.